Category Archives: Articles

A Seasonal Take on Food and Wine Pairing

Bob Harkey, a friend who has an excellent palate and uses it stocking his retail shop (Harkey’s Fine Wines, in suburban Boston), gives the spot-on advice around Thanksgiving, “Match the wine to the company–not the food.”  I now expand that advice after a meal during the recent East Coast heat wave to, “Match the wine to the setting, not the food.”Read more

The Trouble with Vouvray

Vouvray is home to a fabulous array of under-valued white wines.  A major impediment to more widespread popularity is the confusion that surrounds their level of sweetness.  (This confusion is surely a major reason the wines remain undervalued, so perhaps–for those of us who love the wines–I should stop here.) Read more

Vernaccia di San Gimignano

Consumers can be excused if they have no familiarity with Vernaccia di San Gimignano.  A well-respected California-based wine writer (who shall remain nameless) recently admitted to me that (s)he didn’t even know that Vernaccia was a grape, let along that Vernaccia di San Gimignano was considered one of Italy’s great white wines. Read more

Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise: A Forgotten Gem

Trends in wine can be hard to understand.  Current fashion, for example, catapults high-scoring “cult” wines, often more suitable for tasting than for drinking, to frenzied popularity and stratospheric prices.  By contrast, Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, a well priced and versatile wine that is equally at home before dinner as it is at the end of the meal, risks extinction. Read more

Prosecco: The Pinot Grigio of Bubbly?

Prosecco’s popularity around the world has soared–and for good reason.  It’s a delightfully fresh and lively bubbly, perfect as an aperitif, especially in the summertime.  “It’s a party in a bottle,” as Paul Wagner, head of Balzac Communications, a leading California marketing and public relations firm, described it.Read more

Oregon Land Grab

“You can ask whoever you want: attorneys or realtors or winemakers like myself. No one has ever seen this level of activity here before,” says Tony Rynders, proprietor of Tendril Wine Cellars, speaking about the wave of vineyard acquisitions in Oregon’s Willamette Valley in 2013.… Read more

Why Wine Prices Are Rising

I’m no economist, but the idea of supply and demand is a fundamental economic principle that even we non-economists can understand. As far as fine wine is concerned, the demand is rising rapidly and the supply is not. My recent trip to Hong Kong and Vietnam demonstrated just how much demand is rising.… Read more

Chilling Red Wines

I had to look twice.  On a warm June night in a lively Paris bistro many years ago, diners had bottles of Crozes-Hermitage in ice buckets.  I found this surprising, because the wines were red and conventional wisdom tells us to serve red wines at room temperature or–among sophisticates–at “cellar” temperature, but certainly not chilled.… Read more

The Illusion of Knowledge

Everyone buying and selling wine–wineries, wholesalers, retailers and consumers–does it.  We wine writers also fall into the trap.  We carefully note the blend of grapes in a particular wine and what oak treatment the winemaker has chosen, as though that gives us valuable information about the wine. … Read more

Port: It’s Not Just for Winter any More

Many years ago, Carmine Martignetti, a friend of mine and head of Carolina Wines, one of New England’s best distributors, remarked to me after a chilly night that marked the beginning of Fall, that the “Port season had arrived.” He of course was referring to the cold months when Port, the uniquely sweet and warming wine made exclusively in Portugal’s Douro Valley, was consumed.… Read more

Vintage Matters…and So Does Ownership

Bruno Eynard, the man in charge at Château Lagrange, the St. Julien estate in Bordeaux classified as a 3rd growth in the Médoc Classification of 1855, was in New York recently to celebrate the 30th anniversary of Suntory’s ownership. To demonstrate the dramatic turnaround at the estate since Suntory, the Japanese drinks company, acquired it, Eynard led a tasting of 19 vintages of Château Lagrange extending from 1959 to 2010 (plus 5 vintages of Les Fiefs de Lagrange, their second wine, dating from 1990 to 2009).… Read more

Feat of the Feet

Treading the grapes by foot “is fundamental for making Vintage Port,” insists Natasha Bridge, the chief blender at The Fladgate Partnership, the family run company that owns Taylor Fladgate, Fonseca and Croft, three of Port’s best houses. “It may only account for a 3 to 4% difference in quality, but it’s one of the differences between making good and great Port.”… Read more

Chablis: The World’s Best White Wine for Food

That’s a bold claim, but I think it holds up to scrutiny.  The only other contender would be Champagne, but once one takes price into account, the medal goes to Chablis because these wines are so well-priced.  Albariño from Rias Baixas, a region tucked away in Galicia in Spain’s northwest, is in the running, except so little is made and distributed that it’s not a reasonable choice. … Read more

Sicily: Hotbed of Italian Innovation

Winemakers in Sicily bubble with enthusiasm and a sense of discovery the way Etna bubbles with lava and smoke.  Three decades ago, Tuscany was Italy’s epicenter of experimentation.  It was there that a revolution took place, expelling white grapes from Chianti, demonstrating the stand-alone greatness of Sangiovese, introducing French varieties as fuel for “Super Tuscan” wines, and propelling Brunello into stardom. … Read more