Somms–and oh, how I hate that word–are the newest darlings of the wine world. Sommeliers have been anointed the opinion leaders, directing trends in wine consumption, replacing, in many instances, the voices of established wine critics such as Robert Parker, Jr.… Read more
Category Archives: Articles
A Seasonal Take on Food and Wine Pairing
Bob Harkey, a friend who has an excellent palate and uses it stocking his retail shop (Harkey’s Fine Wines, in suburban Boston), gives the spot-on advice around Thanksgiving, “Match the wine to the company–not the food.” I now expand that advice after a meal during the recent East Coast heat wave to, “Match the wine to the setting, not the food.”… Read more
The Trouble with Vouvray
Vouvray is home to a fabulous array of under-valued white wines. A major impediment to more widespread popularity is the confusion that surrounds their level of sweetness. (This confusion is surely a major reason the wines remain undervalued, so perhaps–for those of us who love the wines–I should stop here.) … Read more
Chinon: Burgundy in the Loire Valley
Chinon as Burgundy? At first glance, it is an unlikely comparison. Chinon growers use Cabernet Franc almost exclusively for their reds, while Burgundians use Pinot Noir. And Cabernet Franc is no winemaker’s Holy Grail, unlike Pinot Noir. Few consumers are passionate about Cabernet Franc, nor do they search for it the way they clamor for Pinot Noir.… Read more
Bargains Abound in Burgundy, Part II
With demand for Burgundy pushing prices relentlessly upward, savvy consumers should look to lesser-known appellation to find affordable wines. … Read more
Two Essential Pieces of Equipment for Anyone Who Drinks Wine
The corkscrew is an obvious choice as one, but what’s the other? I’ll give you a hint — it costs between $5 and 10, so that eliminates the Coravin, the clever $300 gadget with a long needle that lets you sample a bottle without having to open it.… Read more
Bargains Abound in Burgundy–If You Know Where to Look
With prices for top Burgundy wines in triple and sometimes quadruple digits, you could be forgiven for concluding that Burgundy is expensive. Well, most of it is. And, as I will explain below, there’s no reason to believe that prices will come down. … Read more
The 2010 Brunello: Don’t Miss Them
You’ve heard it before, usually from Bordeaux, “It’s the vintage of the century!” Although perhaps not “the vintage of the century” (it is a little early to round out this century), the 2010 vintage will certainly rank among the greatest ever for Brunello di Montalcino. … Read more
Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Consumers can be excused if they have no familiarity with Vernaccia di San Gimignano. A well-respected California-based wine writer (who shall remain nameless) recently admitted to me that (s)he didn’t even know that Vernaccia was a grape, let along that Vernaccia di San Gimignano was considered one of Italy’s great white wines. … Read more
Chianti: Confusing, But Worth Understanding
Americans love Chianti. Even those who rarely drink recognize the wine. It has the kind of name recognition that other wines can only dream about. Annually, we Americans actually drink almost twice as much Chianti Classico–wine from Chianti’s most important sub-region–as the Italians do.… Read more
Why Are Italian Wines So Popular?
Italian wine has always been popular in the U.S., and today accounts for a staggering one out of every three bottles imported into this country. … Read more
The Luberon: A Source of Wine for Winter Fare
Those of us in New England are now in the heart of winter. The short cold days and long nights fairly scream for hearty fare, such as lamb shanks or other slow cooked “stick to your ribs” fare–as my mother used to call it.… Read more
Apstein’s Winery of the Year for 2014: Maison Louis Latour
Maison Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s best négociants, is my choice for winery of 2014 because it excels with wines at all levels, especially the less prestigious ones, and even their “simple” Bourgogne Rouge. … Read more
Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise: A Forgotten Gem
Trends in wine can be hard to understand. Current fashion, for example, catapults high-scoring “cult” wines, often more suitable for tasting than for drinking, to frenzied popularity and stratospheric prices. By contrast, Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, a well priced and versatile wine that is equally at home before dinner as it is at the end of the meal, risks extinction. … Read more
Are Old Vines Important?
What does it really mean when a label touts a wine as being made from “old vines?” (This would be rendered as Vieilles Vignes, Vecchie Viti or Viñas Viejas, depending on whether you’ve got a French, Italian or Spanish import.)… Read more
Estate Wines: What are They, and Are They Worth the Price?
The word “Estate” on a bottle of wine lends prestige and often entails a bigger price tag. But what does the term really mean…and is this designation actually worth the price premium?… Read more
Decanter Magazine – A Toast to another successful dwwa (August 2014)
Back to School
Along with the burgeoning interest in wine among American consumers has come an explosion of opportunities to learn about wine. It’s a far different state of affairs now than in the late 1970s and early 1980s, when I was learning about wine.… Read more
A Chablis Primer, With Good News Regarding 2012
Forgive me for beating this drum again, but Chablis remains one of the best–and perhaps the single best–white wine value in today’s world. As for recent developments, the 2012 vintage now on retailers’ shelves is not to be missed. … Read more
Prosecco: The Pinot Grigio of Bubbly?
Prosecco’s popularity around the world has soared–and for good reason. It’s a delightfully fresh and lively bubbly, perfect as an aperitif, especially in the summertime. “It’s a party in a bottle,” as Paul Wagner, head of Balzac Communications, a leading California marketing and public relations firm, described it.… Read more
Age-Worthy Italian White Wine is not an Oxymoron
Livio Felluga’s Terre Alte redefines Italian white wine for me. Andrea Felluga, the current winemaker and general manager of the family-run firm, was recently in New York and led a vertical tasting of eight vintages
of Terre Alte, spanning 15 years, back to 1997, that showed how magnificently this white wine developed with bottle age.… Read more
Jadot in Oregon: Another French Invasion?
Jadot’s seemingly sudden expansion into Oregon was, as Pierre Henry Gagey, President of Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top producers, describes it, “a perfect storm,” though a good one in this instance.… Read more
Oregon Land Grab
“You can ask whoever you want: attorneys or realtors or winemakers like myself. No one has ever seen this level of activity here before,” says Tony Rynders, proprietor of Tendril Wine Cellars, speaking about the wave of vineyard acquisitions in Oregon’s Willamette Valley in 2013.… Read more
Groundbreaking Rosé From a Bordelais in Provence
Sacha Lichine’s upbringing in Bordeaux explains to me why his rosés from Provence are so stunning. Of course, it helps that Lichine’s consulting enologist, Patrick Léon, was, for almost 20 years, the Managing Director in charge of the vineyards and winemaking for all of Baron Philippe de Rothschild’s properties, including Château Mouton Rothschild.… Read more
Dr. Michael Apstein: DWWA 2014 judge
Find out more about the world-renowned names that make up the 2014 Decanter World Wine Awards judging line-up in this Q&A series.
Dr. Michael Apstein is an award-winning columnist and wine reviewer for WineReviewOnLine.com and contributes to the wine section of the San Francisco Chronicle.… Read more
An Unknown Tuscan Treasure
Move over Brunello, Chianti Classico and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. There’s a new kid on the Tuscan block, Montecucco, which is positioned to join this elite trio of regal red wines. With only 2,000-planted acres and about 70 small producers, Montecucco is tiny. … Read more
Gran Selezione: The True Pinnacle of Chianti Classico or Hype?
With the 2010 vintage of Chianti Classico, consumers will see a new class of wine identified by the words “Gran Selezione” on the label. Whether this new category represents progress depends on whom you ask.… Read more
Why Wine Prices Are Rising
I’m no economist, but the idea of supply and demand is a fundamental economic principle that even we non-economists can understand. As far as fine wine is concerned, the demand is rising rapidly and the supply is not. My recent trip to Hong Kong and Vietnam demonstrated just how much demand is rising.… Read more
Are Barrel Tastings Worthwhile?
Every spring, as predictably as the blooming of daffodils, journalists and merchants attend the en primeur tastings in Bordeaux and bombard us with reams of tasting notes. These tastings, organized by the Bordeaux producers, show the new vintage, while it is still aging in barrel. … Read more
Apstein’s Winery of the Year 2013: Mastroberardino
Mastroberardino is my Winery of the Year for 2013 because it excels, not only by consistently making a fine range of wine, but also by preserving history. … Read more
Burgundy Bargains from 2011 Vintage
The 2011 vintage in Burgundy runs the risk of being forgotten despite producing very fine wines. The first strike against it is that it was sandwiched between two stellar vintages, 2010 and 2012. … Read more
Lambrusco: A Wine for Thanksgiving
Just the idea of taking Lambrusco seriously causes snickers. We all know that it’s nothing more than a sweet slightly bubbly red wine, right? Well, no–it isn’t just a cheap sweet bubbly after all. Or at least not all Lambrusco fits that description. … Read more
Franciacorta: A Stylish Sparkler from Italy
Most wine geeks are not familiar with Franciacorta, so it’s understandable that this terrific Italian bubbly is not on the radar screens of most casual consumers. … Read more
The Stunning and Affordable 2010 Bordeaux
Affordable Bordeaux is not an oxymoron. The truth is that, aside from the 60 or so top chateaux, wines from Bordeaux offer tremendous value. … Read more
Chilling Red Wines
I had to look twice. On a warm June night in a lively Paris bistro many years ago, diners had bottles of Crozes-Hermitage in ice buckets. I found this surprising, because the wines were red and conventional wisdom tells us to serve red wines at room temperature or–among sophisticates–at “cellar” temperature, but certainly not chilled.… Read more
The Left Bank Bordeaux Cup: The College Bowl of Wine
Hollywood could not have orchestrated the prelude to the Left Bank Bordeaux Cup any better. On a breezy summer evening under a brilliantly blue sky, the judges, guests and contestants assembled on the beautifully manicured lawns outside the cellars of Château Lafite Rothschild, snapping pictures and chatting nervously. … Read more
Mike Grgich: Multi-National Treasure
It’s better to be lucky than smart.
Of course it’s better to be both, like Miljenko “Mike” Grgich. Time after time, he’s been in the right place at the right time, although at the time, neither the place nor the situation seemed appealing.… Read more
The Illusion of Knowledge
Everyone buying and selling wine–wineries, wholesalers, retailers and consumers–does it. We wine writers also fall into the trap. We carefully note the blend of grapes in a particular wine and what oak treatment the winemaker has chosen, as though that gives us valuable information about the wine. … Read more
Port: It’s Not Just for Winter any More
Many years ago, Carmine Martignetti, a friend of mine and head of Carolina Wines, one of New England’s best distributors, remarked to me after a chilly night that marked the beginning of Fall, that the “Port season had arrived.” He of course was referring to the cold months when Port, the uniquely sweet and warming wine made exclusively in Portugal’s Douro Valley, was consumed.… Read more
Does the World Need Another Super Tuscan?
Caiarossa is the new Super Tuscan on the block and the other “aias” should take note. It’s not yet in the league of Ornellaia or Sassicaia, but based on my first introduction to this young estate, it could be soon.… Read more
Chianti Classico’s Gran Selezione: Grand Idea or Grand Mistake?
Chianti Classico producers have been hitting home runs with recent vintages. But they are on the verge of striking out with their new category, Gran Selezione, debuting with the 2010 vintage.… Read more
Vintage Matters…and So Does Ownership
Bruno Eynard, the man in charge at Château Lagrange, the St. Julien estate in Bordeaux classified as a 3rd growth in the Médoc Classification of 1855, was in New York recently to celebrate the 30th anniversary of Suntory’s ownership. To demonstrate the dramatic turnaround at the estate since Suntory, the Japanese drinks company, acquired it, Eynard led a tasting of 19 vintages of Château Lagrange extending from 1959 to
2010 (plus 5 vintages of Les Fiefs de Lagrange, their second wine, dating from 1990 to 2009).… Read more
Feat of the Feet
Treading the grapes by foot “is fundamental for making Vintage Port,” insists Natasha Bridge, the chief blender at The Fladgate Partnership, the family run company that owns Taylor Fladgate, Fonseca and Croft, three of Port’s best houses. “It may only account for a 3 to 4% difference in quality, but it’s one of the differences between making good and great Port.”… Read more
The Languedoc is Worth Exploring
The Languedoc is undergoing a tremendous transformation. Formerly known as France’s ”wine lake,” this vast area in Southern France that extends in an arc from the Rhône River towards the Spanish border is evolving into one of France’s most exciting wine regions. … Read more
Castilla-La Mancha: The Place for Value
Everyone is looking for value in wine, which I define as a wine that delivers more than the price suggests. Using that definition value can be found in Bordeaux where an $80 wine wows you the way a $120 wine does.… Read more
Thank you, Jacques Lardière
Pierre-Henry Gagey, President of Maison Louis Jadot, set the tone for a dinner honoring the retiring legend Jacques Lardière with the invitation he sent months in advance. The invitation noted that the dinner was to thank Lardière for all he had done for “Burgundy and Maison Jadot.”… Read more
Cremant d’Alsace pops with success
Cremant d’Alsace is France’s go-to sparkling wine. The French consume more of it at home than sparkling wine from any other wine area than Champagne, according to the Conseil Interprofessionnel Vins d’Alsace, Alsace vintners’ trade association.… Read more
Chablis: The World’s Best White Wine for Food
That’s a bold claim, but I think it holds up to scrutiny. The only other contender would be Champagne, but once one takes price into account, the medal goes to Chablis because these wines are so well-priced. Albariño from Rias Baixas, a region tucked away in Galicia in Spain’s northwest, is in the running, except so little is made and distributed that it’s not a reasonable choice. … Read more
Burgundy Update: Tiny 2012 Yields Presage a Pricey Future
“The most expensive vintage ever,” was how Louis-Fabrice Latour, President of the prestigious Beaune-based négociant, Maison Louis Latour, and current head of the association of Burgundy négociants, described the 2012 vintage in Burgundy. “Yields are down by 60% in many areas and we [négociants] are paying growers up to 30% more,” he explained.… Read more
Sicily: Hotbed of Italian Innovation
Winemakers in Sicily bubble with enthusiasm and a sense of discovery the way Etna bubbles with lava and smoke. Three decades ago, Tuscany was Italy’s epicenter of experimentation. It was there that a revolution took place, expelling white grapes from Chianti, demonstrating the stand-alone greatness of Sangiovese, introducing French varieties as fuel for “Super Tuscan” wines, and propelling Brunello into stardom. … Read more

