($30, Grapes of Spain): Inclusion of Cabernet and Merlot in this blend gives the wine a slightly New Worldish style, but the rich complexity imparted by Mencia comes through loud and clear.  Good power and remarkable acidity and lift- — considering the number of flabby wines from 2003 — equals an excellent choice for hearty fare this fall.… Read more

($50, Grapes of Spain): The exotic complexity of Mencia is more apparent in this blend.  Attractive creamy oak is still evident, which is not surprising since the wine spent 2-plus-years in barrel.  Polished, with good structure, this wine needs another year or two to come together.… Read more

($60, Grapes of Spain): Don’t miss this wine when it reaches our shores.  A wonderfully balanced combination of exotic smoky elements, bright fruit, a patina of oak and fine structure makes this wine a delight to taste, and more importantly, to drink.… Read more

($23, The Rare Wine Company): Made from purchased grapes grown in villages neighboring Corullón as well as from Palacios’ vineyards, this has a rich combination of floral notes and stony minerality supported by fine tannins.  It carries the 14% alcohol effortlessly. … Read more

($27, Classical Wines): Bigger still than either the Albares or Baltos bottlings from Dominio de Tares, the Exaltos has attractive rusticity to boot.  At this stage, the American oak is still apparent and the wine would benefit with another year or so of age to allow it to come together.… Read more

($11, Classical Wines): This 100% unoaked Mencia, made especially for the U.S. market, is a terrific buy. With lovely aromatics, fruit and little tannin, it has a Beaujolais-like style and sensibility, but with more substance. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007… Read more

($15, Classical Wines): Made from slightly older vines and aged briefly in American and French oak barriques, the Baltos is a more muscular version of Dominio de Tares’s Albares.  The oak doesn’t dominate; rather it imparts an attractive creaminess that balances the mild tannic structure. … Read more

($46, Classical Wines): Made from 60-plus-year-old vines, this big and juicy wine is remarkably well balanced for a product of the scorching 2003 vintage.  Nuances of tar, meaty overtones and black fruit are combined in this exotically flavored wine that is terrific to drink now.… Read more

($78, Classical Wines): The P3, from a single plot of 100-year-old vines, has gorgeous aromas of minerals and black fruit.  Plush and powerful, it’s nonetheless a graceful wine.  The heat of the vintage probably explains a slightly stewed character to the fruit, but it still retains brightness in the finish.… Read more

($46, Classical Wines): Brighter with better uplifting acidity than the 2003 Bembibre, the 2004 is nonetheless more awkward at this young stage.  A captivating smoky, earthy nose mixed with tar and pepper in the finish suggests it will evolve nicely, and even after just 30 minutes in the glass, it softens. … Read more

($100, The Rare Wine Company): From a higher perch with rockier soil, the Moncerbal comes across as more of a ‘mountain’ wine than the San Martín.  Cherry-like flavors fight through firm, pure minerality.  Its hard edge, apparent at this stage, needs time to soften and allow its true complexity to shine. … Read more

($50, The Rare Wine Company): Despite packing lots of power, the Villa Corullón retains its elegance and class.  Made entirely from estate grapes grown in vineyards scattered throughout the village, it has added spice and minerality complemented by freshness of fruit. … Read more

($78, Classical Wines): Fresher with better balance that the 2003 P3, the 2004 P3 is a real success.  It has the same alluring nose and delivers the same combination of power and plushness, but without a hint of over-extraction or over-ripeness.… Read more

($100, The Rare Wine Company): With an annual production of less than 2,000 bottles, Palacios’ ‘single-vineyard wines’ are tough to find.  Technically not sourced from a single vineyard, but rather several parcels all located on the San Martín hill, this wine is silky and plush with a fabulous nose of violets and spice. … Read more

($70, Grapes of Spain): The 2003 Paixar has remarkable class especially considering the difficulties making wine across Europe in that hot dry year.  It retains the uncanny combination of polish and power without being over-extracted or overdone. The family resemblance to the 2001 is clear.… Read more

($160, The Rare Wine Company): La Faraona is a single vineyard of just over one acre, and the highest in the village of Corullón.  Minerals and a core of ripe sweet ripe balance the firm tannins that give it a clear ‘mountain’ character. … Read more

($70, Grapes of Spain): Paixar’s hallmark of elegance combined with intensity is readily apparent in the 2004 vintage.  Slightly fresher than the 2003, its minerality and succulence is sustained throughout an incredible finish.  Polished fine tannins lend structure without being intrusive. … Read more

($140, The Rare Wine Company): Not yet bottled, this barrel sample marries the best of the Moncerbal and the San Martín.  Floral aromas grab your attention and then a fabulous combination of a silky richness surrounding a mineral core holds it. … Read more

($70, Grapes of Spain): It’s not often that a producer’s early wines from a new area are so outstanding.  Usually it takes time to discern the quirks of the vineyards and area.  But the 2001 Paixar has it all.  Powerful, but not overdone- — a mere 13.5% alcohol — it delivers layers of mineral-infused nuances seamlessly intertwined with succulent black cherry-like flavor.  … Read more