Côtes du Rhône, a vast appellation encompassing vineyards both in the southern and northern Rhône, produces a range of wines from ordinary to superb. Since Delas is a noted producer in the Rhône, it comes as no surprise that their Saint-Esprit is consistently enjoyable despite being a relatively large production wine they produce by utilizing fruit under contract from other growers as well.… Read more
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Tenute Lunelli, Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG (Umbria, Italy) “Carapace” 2021 ($54, Taub Family Selections)
The DOCG of Montefalco Sagrantino has a well-deserved reputation for producing robust red wines replete with tannins and alcohol. What immediately stands out in Lunelli’s youthful 2021 Carapace and grabs your attention is its suave tannins and texture. Lunelli’s winemaker, Luca Capaldini, quips, “grapes that grow in the darkness hold onto tannins,” so they remove leaves during the growing season to let the grapes see the sun.… Read more
San Felice, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Poggio Rosso” 2020 ($85, Total Beverage Solutions)
New regulations for Gran Selezione, Chianti Classico’s top tier, permit the producer to put the Chianti Classico subzone on the label (in this case, Castelnuovo Berardenga, the southernmost subzone which typically produces the ripest fruit of the Chianti Classico districts). San Felice, one of Tuscany’s top producers, has fashioned a ripe wine with a wonderfully paradoxical restraint and complexity.… Read more
Antonelli, Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino DOC (Umbria, Italy) “Vigna Tonda” 2024 ($32)
Antonelli ferments their Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino labeled Vigna Tonda with a few days of skin contact, which imparts a delicate orange wine-like character without overwhelming its raciness. It too, like their Trebium, has good weight and a spicy component that is very alluring.… Read more
Antonelli, Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino DO (Umbria, Italy) “Trebium” 2024 ($23)
Let me unravel the name of this DOC since it’s confusing with both a geographic name, Spoleto, and a grape name, Trebbiano Spoletino. Spoleto is a well-known (at least to music lovers) town in Umbria. Trebbiano Spoletino is an ancient Umbrian variety that is distinct from, and makes far more interesting wine than, the more common Trebbiano Toscano or Trebbiano Abruzzo.… Read more
Ken Forrester, Stellenbosch South Africa Chenin Blanc Old Vine Reserve 2024 ($19)
South Africa is justifiably known for Chenin Blanc, its signature grape, because of the quality of the wines made from it. And for reasons I don’t understand, Chenin Blanc wines from South Africa, like this one, are underappreciated — and underpriced — for what they deliver.… Read more
Iron Horse, Green Valley of Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Winery Block 2020 ($87)
Unsurprisingly, Iron Horse, a leader in sparkling wine made from the traditional grapes, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, knows something about Pinot Noir, as this rendition shows. This ripe, mid-weight Pinot Noir focuses on the bright Green Valley fruit for which the sub-region is known.… Read more
Domaine des Baumard, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) Clos du Papillon 2021 ($60, Vintus)
Savennières, a small appellation just west of Angers in the Loire Valley, produces the most prized dry wines made from Chenin Blanc. Clos du Papillon is one of the top vineyards in the appellation. Add to that Baumard, one of the best producers in the region, and it’s no surprise that you wind up with a sensational bottle of wine.… Read more
Alheit Vineyards, Paardeberg (Swartland, South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Fire by Night” 2024 ($77)
Alheit Vineyards shows that South Africa can produce stunning Chenin Blanc, and at a modest level of alcohol. Their glossy and vibrant 2024 Fire by Night, from 40- to 50-year-old vines, delivers mouth-coating richness without heaviness. The 12.5 percent stated alcohol shows that richness and depth can be attained with excessive ripeness.… Read more
Arnaud Lambert, Saumur (Loire Valley, France) “Midi” 2023 ($26)
Though not an officially delimited area, Brézé is the unofficial “grand cru” area of Saumur. Saumur is an outlier in the Loire because it makes dry wines from Chenin Blanc, the region’s signature grape. One of the beautiful aspects of Chenin Blanc is that it can make both enticingly dry and voluptuously sweet wines, which, of course, presents a question for the consumer: How do you know what you’re getting?… Read more
Kaltern, Alto Adige/Sudtirol (Italy) Blauburgunder / Pinot Nero 2024 ($23)
Since the Alto Adige region was formerly a part of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire until Italy annexed it in 1919 after World War I, it retains a Germanic cultural presence. Hence, the wine labels are both in German and Italian. Kaltern, a highly regarded cooperative in the region, makes a range of wines, including this lively Pinot Noir (also known as Blauburgunder in German).… Read more
Kaltern, Kalterersee Classico Superiore DOC (Alto Adige / Sudtirol, Italy) “Quintessenz” 2023 ($35)
Savory herbal notes add intrigue to this refined mid-weight red made from the Schiava grape. While having similarly mild tannins that allow for chilling this summer, it displays more black fruit when compared to Kaltern’s red-fruited Pinot Nero. A smooth texture adds to its overall sense of elegance.… Read more
Michael Shaps, Virginia Wild Meadow Vineyard Chardonnay 2022 ($28)
Michael Shaps studied viticulture and winemaking at the Lycée Viticole de Beaune, a prestigious school in the heart of Burgundy. About a decade later, he started making wine in Virginia under the Michael Shaps label. He also has a small winery in Meursault under the Maison Shaps label.… Read more
Cavazza, Colli Berici DOC (Veneto, Italy) “Fornetto” 2023 ($32)
Cavazza achieves balance and complexity by adding Tocai Rosso, a local grape, and Syrah to this Merlot-dominant blend. Plumy red fruit combined with spicy elements results in a lush and succulent, but not heavy, red. Mild tannins allow for current enjoyment.… Read more
Frog’s Leap, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay “Shale and Stone” 2022 ($42)
Frog’s Leap, which released its first vintage in 1981, is no newcomer to Napa Valley. Still family owned, Frog’s Leap has been making this restrained and delightful Chardonnay since 1985 from grapes grown in the cooler Carneros region of Napa Valley.… Read more
Mezzacorona, Trentino DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio “Domenica” 2024 ($15, Prestige Wine Imports)
Mezzacorona, a co-operative established in 1904 with a handful of members, now has more than 1500 of them. Co-ops often get a bad rap, but in my experience, the best of them skillfully separate members’ grapes into tiers, capturing an excellent quality to price ratio.… Read more
Barboursville Vineyards, Virginia Vermentino Reserve 2023 ($23)
Barboursville Vineyards certainly must be one Virginia’s top wineries. Their “Octagon” blend — a sensational red — is a consistent winner. Now, with this Vermentino, they have another stellar bottling. Delicately aromatic, this mid-weight (13.5 percent state alcohol) beauty has an alluring texture often lacking in Vermentino.… Read more
Potomac Point Vineyard and Winery, Virginia Albariño 2023 ($39)
Well done Potomac Point Vineyard and Winery! I knew nothing about this winery before tasting this stunning Albariño. Who knew someone in Virginia was making Albariño, not exactly a well-known grape, especially on these shores? (Albariño, for those who don’t know, is the signature grape of Rías Baixas in Spain’s northwest corner).… Read more
The Winery at La Grange, Virginia Catherine’s Vineyard Petit Manseng 2023 ($37)
Although precise statistics are difficult to find, with its roughly 180 acres, Virginia may have the most Petit Manseng planted in the U.S. (The California Department of Food and Agriculture doesn’t even list Petit Manseng in their acreage planting by variety statistics.)… Read more
Donnafugata, Etna Rosso DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Sul Vulcano” 2021 ($36, Folio Fine Wine Partners)
Donnafugata, one of Sicily’s top producers, once again succeeds brilliantly with this intriguing light to mid-weight red. It delivers far more punch than its weight suggests. Although a hint of cherry-like fruit is apparent, the focus here is on its savory aspects of lava-like minerals and spice.… Read more
Attems, Collio DOC (Friuli – Venezia Giulia, Italy) “Cicinis” 2022 ($33, Vintus)
What a difference place makes! With Cicinis, Frescobaldi uses Sauvignon Blanc planted in Collio, which elevates it to a DOC wine instead of an IGT designated one. In contrast to their IGT Sauvignon Blanc that focuses on the varietal—fruity—aspect of the grape, Cicinis spotlights its mineral notes and mouthfeel.… Read more
Mosnel, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Brut NV ($42)
Mosnel is one of the great producers of Franciacorta, Italy’s high-end sparkling wine. Though the wines of Franciacorta undergo the traditional secondary fermentation in the bottle, so the so-called “Champagne method,” the blend of grapes can be different. For this Chardonnay-dominant wine, Mosnel blends Pinot Blanc (23 percent), a touch of Pinot Noir (5 percent) and Erbamet (1 percent), a long-forgotten local variety, to achieve a layered complexity.… Read more
Bruno Giacosa, Roero Arneis DOCG (Langhe, Italy) 2022 ($40, Folio Fine Wine Partners)
Bruno Giacosa, arguably Barolo’s most famous producer, also makes this engaging Arneis from across the Tanaro River in Roero. The intriguing combination of delicate aromas of minerals mixed with white flowers draws you in. Minerals, rather than an overt fruitiness, appear and persist on the palate.… Read more
Attems, Venezia Giulia IGT (Italy) Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($20, Vintus)
It is no surprise that a wine from a Frescobaldi estate, is easy to recommend. After all, Frescobaldi is one of Italy’s leading producers and one that rarely disappoints. This cutting and refreshing IGT Sauvignon Blanc delivers the herbal and engagingly pungent character of the variety.… Read more
Iron Horse, Green Valley of the Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Russian River Cuvée” 2020 ($58)
Founded and still owned by the Sterling family, Iron Horse is an icon of California sparkling wine. This compelling Russian River Cuvée, a blend of three-quarters Pinot Noir along with Chardonnay, was created to be served during the Reagan-Gorbachev summit in 1985 that arguably signaled the end of the Cold War.… Read more
Domaine Huet: The Jewel of Vouvray
Sarah Hwang, whose family owns the iconic Domaine Huet in Vouvray, states emphatically, “Demi-sec is the strength of Vouvray.” Though the literal translation of demi-sec is “half dry,” wines labeled as such will have notable sweetness. What makes the demi-sec, and the even sweeter wines of Vouvray (plus other sweet wines from the Loire, like Coteaux du Layon or Quarts de Chaume) sensational is the riveting and balancing acidity that energizes the palate.… Read more
100 Polas, Ribeiras do Morrazo IGP (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Reboraina” 2024 ($20, T. Edward Wines)
The Albariño grape is most associated with Galicia’s famous Rías Baixas, and indeed, Despana, New York’s superb Spanish products store/restaurant where I had this wine, mistakenly had it labeled as such. Don’t let the lack of the D.O. deter you. This Albariño, from just outside the appellation boundary, delivers tremendous pleasure at the right price.… Read more
Mosnel, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) “Satèn” 2020 ($71)
Franciacorta, arguably, Italy’s most high-end sparkling wine area, is nestled on the shores of Lake Iseo in Lombardy. In this compact region the shadow of the Alps shields the vineyards from the harsher northern European climate. Regulations for Satèn (literally, silky, in Italian), which happens to be my favorite type of Franciacorta, require the exclusive use of Chardonnay bottled under a slightly lower pressure.… Read more
Iron Horse, Green Valley of Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Wedding Cuvée” 2020 ($58)
Founded in 1976, Iron Horse, still family-owned, remains an icon of California sparkling wine. The Pinot Noir (85%) and Chardonnay that comprise the Wedding Cuvée come exclusively from their vineyards. This masterful blend combines power and richness with a bracing — but not aggressive — spine of acidity that keeps it fresh and lively.… Read more
Ken Forrester, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc “The FMC” 2023 ($78)
Though France’s Loire Valley is considered the birthplace and home of Chenin Blanc, South Africa has twice as much planted and indeed, is that country’s signature white wine. Shawn Mathyse, their masterful winemaker, bottles several different ones depending on the source of the grapes.… Read more
Cavazza, Lessini Durello DOC (Veneto, Italy) “Millesimato” 2024 ($27)
Look out Prosecco, Trento DOC and Franciacorta, here’s another winning Italian sparkling wine. The tiny Lessini Durello DOC lies just north of the better-known area of Soave in the pre-Alps. Like Soave, the area has volcanic origins which imbues this engaging sparkling wine with an alluring minerality.… Read more
Ian D’Agata Wine Review: Weekly Wines in the Spotlight
Louis Latour 1999 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 100
by Michael Apstein
With their almost eleven hectares, Domaine Louis Latour is the largest owner of Corton-Charlemagne, the roughly 73 hectares Grand Cru located on the hill of Corton. (Bonneau du Martray is second with just under 10 hectares).… Read more
Palmento Costanzo, Etna Bianco DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Mofete” 2023 ($26, Artisanal Cellars)
This wine shows that Palmento Costanzo, founded by the Costanzo family as recently as 2010, is already a leading producer on Etna. A seamless blend of Carricante (70%) and Catarratto, the 2023 Mofete delivers good depth — you can almost feel and taste the lava—supported by a cutting edginess.… Read more
La Pépière, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) “La Pépie” 2022 ($18, Louis / Dressner Selections)
La Pépière, a consistently good and reliable producer of Muscadet, comes through with another winning example with their 2022 La Pépie. Crisp, clean, saline-tinged acidity makes this well suited to light-bodied summertime drinking with anything from the sea. You can’t beat it at the price.… Read more
Barone di Villagrande, Etna Rosso DOC (Sicily, Italy) 2022 ($26, Omniwines)
Dating from 1727 and claiming to be the oldest winery in Sicily, Barone di Villagrande is no stranger among the island’s wines. Their immediately appealing 2022 Etna Rosso shows why the whole category is becoming so popular. It combines alluring aromatics and a firm but not hard base of lava-like minerality.… Read more
E. Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage Blanc (Rhône Valley France) 2019 ($31, Vintus)
Through three generations of the family, Etienne, his son Marcel, and Marcel’s son Philippe, E. Guigal remains one of the top producers up and down the entire Rhône Valley. In addition to the wines that they make from their own vineyards, which extend from prime plots in Côte Rôtie, Hermitage, and St.… Read more
Château de Villeneuve, Saumur (Loire Valley, France) “Les Cormiers” 2022 ($23)
The white wines of Saumur, with their harmonious combination of minerality and delicate fruitiness, are undiscovered treasures. Here Chenin Blanc is planted on limestone and produces an entirely different style of wine compared to Chenin planted elsewhere. This one from Château de Villeneuve, for example, combines an enticing fine tropical fruitiness with a bracing minerality and enlivening saline-like acidity.… Read more
Arnaldo Caprai, Colli Martani DOC (Umbria, Italy) Grechetto “Grecante” 2024 ($19, Wilson Daniels)
Caprai, one of the top producers of Montefalco Sagrantino, also produces noteworthy whites, like this mid-weight and lively Grecante. Made entirely from Grechetto, a local white grape, it delivers a delightful hint of almond-like bitterness in the finish, a characteristic that defines wine made from that grape.… Read more
Viña Santa Rita, Apalta (Colchagua Valley, Chile) Carménère “Floresta” 2023 ($34)
Stylish and Carménère are not often used in the same sentence. But this wine shows that Carménère can, indeed, be a stylish wine. Often the problem is that Carménère exhibits an excess of herbal or grassy notes that come from an excess accumulation of a compound, pyrazines, in the grapes.… Read more
Viña Santa Rita, Maipo Valley (Valle Centrale, Chile) Cabernet Franc “Floresta” 2023 ($25)
The grapes for this delicious Cabernet Franc come from the Alto Jahuel, a sub-region that comprises about one-fifth of the entire 150,000-acre Maipo Valley. Sebastián Labbé, Santa Rita’s winemaker responsible for their ultra-premium bottlings, including the Floresta line, believes that this sub-region is sufficiently distinctive to deserve its own appellation.… Read more
Viña Santa Rita, Maipo Valley (Valle Centrale, Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “Floresta” 2022 ($40)
The Maipo Valley is an ideal place in Chile for Cabernet Sauvignon. Sebastián Labbé, Sant Rita’s winemaker responsible for their ultra-premium bottlings, including the Floresta line, quips, “Why do you think Mouton (Château Mouton Rothschild) choose it for their Almaviva?” Maipo’s rocky, well-drained soil like in the Médoc is ideal for Cabernet Sauvignon.… Read more
Tenuta Bellafonte, Montefalco Rosso DOC (Umbria, Italy) “Pomontino” 2022 ($32)
Montefalco Rosso is the more ready-to-drink category of the prestigious, powerful, and tannic Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG. Unlike other rosso categories, Montefalco Rosso does not follow the varietal composition of its big brother. Rather, it focuses on Sangiovese (60 to 80%), requiring only 10 to 25% of Sagrantino.… Read more
Viña Santa Rita, Limari Valley (Chile) Chardonnay “Floresta” 2022 ($25)
Viña Santa Rita, one of Chile’s best producers, dates from the late 19th century, making it also one of that country’s oldest producers. Not resting on their laurels, they introduced the Floresta line, which they say represents wines from specific parcels of traditional varieties.… Read more
Viña Santa Rita, Apalta (Colchagua Valley, Chile) “Floresta” Field Blend Blanco 2023 ($25)
Weird and wonderful! Weird because it is a field blend of Semillón, Sauvignon Vert, Moscatel, Torontel, and Corinto (also known as Chasselas) planted in the 1940s. Also, weird because it undergoes 10-months of post fermentation skin contact that carries the potential to turn it into unbalanced orange wine.… Read more
Viña Santa Rita, Maipo Valley (Chile) “Triple C” 2021 ($40)
Chile’s Maipo Valley is THE place for Bordeaux varieties, which explains why this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Cabernet Franc (42%), and Carménère come from there. The gorgeous 2021 is a seamless blend of these varieties, which were vinified separately and then blended.… Read more
Viña Santa Rita, Apalta (Colchagua Valley, Chile) Carménère “Pewën de Apalta” 2022 ($70)
Many consumers are put off by Carménère which can be overly herbaceous, even green, if harvested before it is fully ripe. Not a problem in this instance. This robust 100% Carménère reflects the richness of grapes grown in Apalta. For all its size, it weighs in at a mere 13.4% stated alcohol, which keeps this powerhouse from going over the top.… Read more
Viña Santa Rita, Maipo Valley (Chile) “Casa Real” 2021 ($100)
This stunning Casa Real, made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grown in Chile’s prized Maipo Valley, is Viña Santa Rita’s flagship wine. The grapes come from a 50-acre vineyard that they have subdivided into 24 plots so that they can fine tune the harvest and vinification of each section.… Read more
Chiappini, Bolgheri Rosso DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Ferruggini” 2023 ($32)
Bolgheri, a DOC on the Tuscan coast, is known for high quality red blends usually from Bordeaux varieties. Chiappini’s artful blend is a bit atypical because it contains Sangiovese and Syrah, two varieties not often seen in this part of Tuscany, along with Cabernet Sauvignon.… Read more
Chiappini, Bolgheri Rosso DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Felciaino” 2023 ($45)
This harmonious Bolgheri Rosso is a typical blend of the Bordeaux grapes for which the DOC is known, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. It conveys mid-weight flavors of dark fruit, earthy notes, and a touch of minerals, all enrobed in graceful tannins and enlivened by uplifting Tuscan acidity.… Read more
Chiappini, Bolgheri Superiore DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Guado de’Gemoli” 2022 ($90)
Chiappini’s Guado de’Gemoli comes in a heavier bottle compared to their other wines, which means they must think it’s a “more important” one. One taste confirms that—it’s just a better wine. Though it’s the same blend of grapes as their brilliant Felciaino, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, the back label tells you that it’s a selection from their best vineyards and aged in French oak for a longer time.… Read more