This harmonious Bolgheri Rosso is a typical blend of the Bordeaux grapes for which the DOC is known, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. It conveys mid-weight flavors of dark fruit, earthy notes, and a touch of minerals, all enrobed in graceful tannins and enlivened by uplifting Tuscan acidity.… Read more
All posts by admin
Chiappini, Bolgheri Superiore DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Guado de’Gemoli” 2022 ($90)
Chiappini’s Guado de’Gemoli comes in a heavier bottle compared to their other wines, which means they must think it’s a “more important” one. One taste confirms that—it’s just a better wine. Though it’s the same blend of grapes as their brilliant Felciaino, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, the back label tells you that it’s a selection from their best vineyards and aged in French oak for a longer time.… Read more
Tenute Lunelli, Montefalco Rosso DOC (Umbria, Italy) “Ziggurat” 2023 ($25, Taub Family Selections)
Montefalco Rosso is the more ready-to-drink category related to the prestigious, powerful, and tannic Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG. Unlike other “Rosso” categories (e.g., Rosso di Montalcino), Montefalco Rosso does not follow the varietal composition of its big brother. Rather, it focuses on Sangiovese (60 to 80%), requiring only 10 to 25 % of Sagrantino.… Read more
Domaine La Ferme Saint-Martin, Beaumes-de-Venise (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Terres Jaunes” 2022 ($35)
French wine regulators elevated red Beaumes-de-Venise, an attractive village sitting at the feet of the picturesque Dentelles de Montmirail in the Rhône Valley, from a Côtes de Rhône-Villages appellation to a stand-alone cru appellation, like Gigondas or Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in 2005. This gorgeous wine shows why.… Read more
Koha by te Pā Family Vineyards, Marlborough (South Island, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ($15, Banville Wine Merchants)
This simple well-priced Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc delivers exactly what you would expect: a delightful and harmonious mixture of grass-tinged herbal qualities and grapefruit-y ones. A lime-like palate cleansing finish makes this a good choice for summertime fare.
88 Michael Apstein – July 2, 2025… Read more
te Pā Family Vineyards, Marlborough (South Island, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ($21, Banville Wine Merchants)
This exceptionally well-priced Sauvignon Blanc has everything that their Koha bottling has but with added depth and length. Overall, it is less overt and more refined without losing any of its exuberant energy. It’s a great choice for summertime fare.
93 Michael Apstein – July 2, 2025… Read more
San Leonardo, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT (Trentino – Alto Adige, Italy) Sauvignon Blanc “Vette di San Leonardo” 2024 ($27, Vias Imports)
San Leonardo, an under-the-radar producer of spectacular Bordeaux-blend reds, also makes this fine, racy Sauvignon Blanc. The slightly grassy and piquant nature characteristic of Sauvignon Blanc is apparent, but more as a condiment rather than the main course, imparting a stylish quality to the wine.… Read more
Mosnel, Franciacorta DOCG (Lombardy, Italy) Rosé NV ($51)
Mosnel, one of the top producers in Franciacorta, seamlessly combines Pinot Nero (also known as Pinot Noir) and Chardonnay with a touch (20%) of Pinot Bianco to produce this splendid Rosé. Though pale in color, it delivers plenty of pleasure with delicate hints of strawberry-like fruitiness coupled with depth, all supported by a fine spine of acidity.… Read more
Domaine Christophe Mittnacht, Alsace (France) Pinot Noir “Terres d’Etoiles” 2023 ($28, Skurnik)
In 1999, this family estate was certified as biodynamic, making it one of the first in Alsace to achieve that accreditation. Their clean and pure 2023 Pinot Noir focuses on the fruity aspect of the grape, with hints of minerals peeking out.… Read more
Sagrantino di Montefalco Enters the Modern Age
Get this. In Montefalco, producers actually use Sangiovese to soften Sagrantino, their signature grape. Remember, white grapes were used to soften the structured Sangiovese in the 19th century in the original Chianti recipe. That tells you pretty much all you need to know about Sagrantino, a grape that’s been described as the most tannic in Italy.… Read more
Tignanello Transformed Chianti Classico
At 25 years of age, the 1999 Tignanello is a masterpiece.
Antinori’s Tignanello was a revolutionary, ground-breaking, and paradigm-shifting wine when it was released in the 1970s. Although the use of small French oak barrels (barriques), the incorporation of Cabernet in the blend, and the elimination of white grapes is now common in Chianti Classico, those ideas were unheard of at that time.… Read more
Villa Wolf, Pfalz (Germany) Pinot Noir 2022 ($15, Loosen Bros USA)
It is no secret than Ernst Loosen makes great Riesling. I tasted this, the first German Pinot Noir—I presume he labels it Pinot Noir instead of the German, Spätburgunder, for marketing reasons—of his I have had, side-by-side with a Bourgogne Rouge from his new project in Burgundy.… Read more
Maison Perron de Mypont, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir 2022 ($38, Loosen Bros USA)
Ernst Loosen, the talented and dedicated German Riesling producer, has said he has always been struck how both Riesling and Pinot Noir transmit a sense of place. Well, now he has the chance to see the similarity first-hand because he has started to produce wines in Burgundy.… Read more
te Pā Family Vineyards, Marlborough (South Island, New Zealand) Pinot Gris 2024 ($18, Banville Wine Merchants)
By now, everyone knows that the Marlborough region of New Zealand is famous for their Sauvignon Blanc. Well, it turns out, this Pinot Gris shows that the region is not a one-horse show. It offers a subtle and engaging pear-like nuance, good body, and vibrant acidity.… Read more
Delaille, Vin de France Sauvignon Blanc “Le Petit Salvard” 2024 ($18, Kermit Lynch)
In 1900, Maurice Delaille purchased the Salvard estate in the Loire valley. Over the ensuing century the family expanded it, so now it encompasses just over 125 acres spread over several appellations. Since their viticulture and winemaking does not always conform to established regulations for a particular appellation, some of their wines, like this one, carry a generic and lowly Vin de France designation.… Read more
François Baur, Alsace (France) Schlittweg Pinot Noir 2023 ($28, Frederick Wildman)
Schlittweg is a parcel within Brand, an Alsace vineyard classified as Grand Cru. Despite its location there, Baur’s Pinot Noir is prohibited from carrying Grand Cru on the label. Regulators allowed only vineyards planted to the four “noble” varieties, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Muscat, and Gewürztraminer, to qualify for Grand Cru designation.… Read more
Librandi, Cirò Riserva Rosso Classico Superiore DOC (Calabria, Italy) “Duca Sanfelice” 2021 ($22, Winebow)
The thick skins of Gaglioppo, replete with tannins, are responsible for the robust character of the reds from the Cirò DOC. Librandi, still family-run, is one of the leaders in the region. This wine, their flagship red, is made entirely from Gaglioppo grown in the Cirò and Cirò Marina communes, the historic heart of the DOC.… Read more
Librandi, Cirò Bianco DOC (Calabria, Italy) “Segno Librandi” 2023 ($19, Winebow)
You might think that a white wine from sun-drenched and hot Calabria would be heavy. Not Librandi’s lively and vibrant Cirò Bianco. Made entirely from Greco Bianco, this fragrant beauty is fermented and aged exclusively in stainless steel tanks to capture it bright melon-y aspect.… Read more
Librandi, Cirò Rosato (Calabria, Italy) “Segno Librandi” 2024 ($14, Winebow)
This delightful light red is actually masquerading as a rosé. Made entirely from Cirò’s major red grape, Gaglioppo, it captures your attention with marvelous aromatics. The power and intensity characteristic of Gaglioppo appears in the body of this deliciously chewy wine.… Read more
Maison Drouhin, Bourgogne Pinot Noir (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($33, Dreyfus Ashby)
Maison Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s most reliable négociants, shows the house’s talents with their low prestige wines, like this one. Every producer should make a stellar Grand Cru Burgundy, like Bonnes Mares, which often retails above $300 a bottle, but it takes real skill to craft an authentic Bourgogne, which is what Drouhin’s has done with their 2022.… Read more
Hugel, Alsace (France) Pinot Noir “Classic” 2023 ($23)
Pinot Noir from Alsace has always flown under the radar. From my long experience with Hugel’s, I can say theirs are always top-notch when young, like this one, and develop magnificently with bottle age. The mid-weight 2023 delivers red crunchy fruit and a touch of spice, all supported by mild tannins.… Read more
Terra Costantino, Etna Bianco DOC (Sicily, Italy) “de Aetna” 2023 ($30)
Fabio Costantino explained that his father planted Minnella, a rare indigenous white grape, 50 years ago. They include a small amount of it in their Etna Bianco because, as he puts it, “we have it, so we use it.” He believes that the inclusion of both Catarratto (15%) and Minnella (5%) softens what could otherwise be an overly acidic Carricante in the Etna Bianco.… Read more
Terra Costantino, Etna Rosso Riserva DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Contrada Blandano” 2018 ($39)
Fabio Costantino bristled when he was introduced as a Sicilian producer, remarking succinctly and pointedly, “Etna, not Sicily.” After tasting their wines, it is easy to understand why he called Etna “an island on an island.” The successive layers and flows of lava create enormous diversity of terroir, which has allowed the locals to create 133+ contrada or geographic areas, whose size range wildly.… Read more
Antonelli, Spoleto DOC (Umbria, Italy) Trebbiano Spoletino “Trebium” 2023 ($23)
Antonelli, located in Montefalco, is an outlier there in one respect—almost a third of their production is white, compared to about ten percent for the area in general. After seeing the quality of this wine, I understand why. Trebbiano Spoletino is not a clone of Trebbiano but has a different and unique DNA.… Read more
Librandi, Val di Neto IGT (Calabria, Italy) “Critone” 2024 ($16, Winebow)
Traditionally, Librandi’s region of Cirò was a red wine-heavy area, but as Paolo Librandi explains, in the last 30 years the proportion of whites has doubled and now equals that of reds for them. Their Critone typically contains a small (10%) amount of Sauvignon Blanc, a grape rarely seen in these parts because, as Paolo explains, to farm it correctly, “you must live in vineyard at harvest time.”… Read more
Michele Satta, Bolgheri Superiore DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Piastraia” 2022 ($53)
Michele Satta was one of the founders of the Bolgheri DOC, so the estate is no newcomer to the area. That said, Satta’s blend is rare for the region because it includes a bit of Sangiovese, typically about ten percent. Giacomo, Michele’s son who took over running the estate in 2019, believes Sangiovese adds “freshness” to the wines.… Read more
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Montagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Combes 2023 ($70, Misa Imports)
Montagny, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise just south of the famed Côte d’Or that makes only white wine, remains an underappreciated site for white Burgundies. As usual, Domaine du Cellier aux Moines shows the heights an appellation can achieve. Les Combes, produced from young vines planted in 2012 in this south facing vineyards, displays the stoniness you’d expect from Montagny, but with an added touch of excitement.… Read more
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Montagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Charmelottes “Vieilles Vignes 1939” 2023 ($100, Misa Imports)
Philippe Pascal, who along with winemaker Guillaume Marko, run Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, explains that the soil and exposure of the vines for their Les Charmelottes are basically the same as for their Les Combes. The difference is the age of the vines.… Read more
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Givry Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos du Cellier aux Moines “Les Dessus”2023 ($130, Misa Imports)
The team at Domaine du Cellier aux Moines has been fanatical in replanting their vineyard over the last decade plus, pulling out old vines, which as owner Philippe Pascal quips, “produced grapes the size of potatoes.” They are replanting with a massale selection, a traditional viticultural practice that propagates a variety of vines from the vineyard instead of using a “Mother” vine or clone.… Read more
Paolo e Noemia d’Amico, Umbria IGP (Italy) Pinot Nero “Notturno dei Calanchi” 2021 ($34)
Pinot Noir in Central Italy? Call me skeptical, but that is exactly the reason to taste. And am I glad I did! The volcanic soil of the Calanchi Valley—hence the name of the wine—likely imbues it with such a compelling combination of fruity and savory notes.… Read more
Paolo e Noemia d’Amico, Tuscia DOC (Lazio, Italy) Grechetto “Agylla” 2023 ($20)
Paolo e Noemia d’Amico make wine exclusively from organically grown grapes on their family-run estate that sits on the border of Lazio and Umbria. This 100-percent Grechetto comes from Tuscia, also known as Colli Etruschi Viterbesi, a tiny 220-acre DOC in Lazio.… Read more
Old Vines—Better Wines? Evidence from Givry’s Domaine du Cellier aux Moines
Conventional wisdom holds that grapes from old vines make better wine. The science behind that conventional wisdom is fuzzy, which of course, leads to a plethora of explanations. One sensible one is that older vines yield fewer grapes but that those grapes have more “oomph”—they’ve concentrated the same amount of energy into a smaller volume.… Read more
Weekly Wines in the Spotlight: Clotilde Davenne
Clotilde Davenne 2022 Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre 93
It’s common knowledge that Burgundy produces sensational, sought-after, and expensive wines. Less well known is that the region also produces excellent and affordable wines, such as this white Burgundy, that is currently available in the U.S.… Read more
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Givry Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos du Cellier aux Moines 2022 ($73, Misa Imports)
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines is setting a new benchmark for the wines from Givry. Their 2022 from the famed Clos du Cellier aux Moines, arguably Givry’s top Premier Cru vineyard, is just one example of how they are redefining the appellation.… Read more
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru (Burgundy, France Les Chaumées 2023 ($180, Misa Imports)
The 2023 vintage in Burgundy has the reputation of producing forward or “approachable” wines that are ready to drink. Don’t be fooled. This stunning and age-worthy Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées is not. Don’t get me wrong. It is a fabulous wine, as my score shows.… Read more
Can Sumoi, Penedes (Catalonia, Spain) “La Rosa” 2024 ($24)
Can Sumoi is a relatively new, still wine project from the famed Raventós i Blanc sparkling wine producer, which dates all the way back to 1497. Pepe Raventós, the current head of the family-run company, explains that this fine rosé is a blend of Sumoll, an indigenous red grape, and Xarel-lo.… Read more
Can Sumoi, Penedes (Catalonia, Spain) Garnatxa / Sumoll 2023 ($25)
Pepe Raventós, the current head of the family-run sparkling wine company, Raventós i Blanc, purchased and resurrected an old farm, Serra de l’Home (literally, “mountain of man”) that dates from 1645 and is making still wine there under the Can Sumoi (literally, “house of Sumoll”) label.… Read more
Domaine Mont Bessay, Juliénas (Beaujolais, France) “En Bessay” 2023 ($60, Misa Imports)
Even with the resurgence of interest in Beaujolais, Juliénas, one of the region’s 10 crus, has been overlooked or under-rated. With Domaine Mont Bessay, Philippe Pascal and Guillaume Marko are changing that and, in the process, are redefining the wines from that cru.… Read more
Pasqua Vigneti et Cantine, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Famiglia Pasqua” 2017 ($50)
Pasqua’s bold and warming Amarone delivers everything you’d expect from that appellation: dense, black fruitiness tinged with an engaging, raisin-like accented note. The 15 percent stated alcohol delivers an enveloping warmth without being hot or intrusive. It is finely textured with great balancing acidity and the barest hint of sweetness, which actually amplifies its appeal.… Read more
Pasqua Vigneti et Cantine, Valpolicella Superiore DOC (Veneto, Italy) “Mai Dire Mai” 2015 ($64)
Valpolicella Superiore lies between Valpolicella and Amarone in style, displaying more density and oomph than Valpolicella yet not the power of Amarone. Think of it as an Amarone Rosso. Pasqua’s 2015, a mature and balanced 10-year-old wine, is a real treat.… Read more
Can Sumoi, Penedes (Catalonia, Spain) Xarel-lo 2023 ($23)
Can Sumoi is a relatively new, still wine project from the famed Raventós i Blanc sparkling wine producer, which dates its origins to 1497. Pepe Raventós, who currently leads the family-owned domain, insists that Xarel-lo is the world’s best white wine grape, surpassing Riesling or even Chardonnay.… Read more
Raventós i Blanc, Conca del Riu Anoia (Penedes, Spain) “De la Finca” 2020 ($39)
I know of no finer producer of Spanish sparkling wines than Raventós i Blanc. Note that I write sparkling wines rather than Cava, because Raventós i Blanc left the Cava umbrella over a decade ago (because they felt the quality level in general was abysmal in many wines bearing the Cava designation.… Read more
Tenuta Luce, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Luce” 2022 ($100, Vintus)
There are Super Tuscans — and then there are true Super Tuscans. Luce, an impeccable blend of Sangiovese and Merlot, falls squarely into the latter category. It delivers refined power, with the firmness and structure of Sangiovese balancing the more boisterous and juicier Merlot component.… Read more
King Family Vineyards, Monticello (Virginia) “Mountain Plains” Red Wine 2021 ($85)
The weighty bottle accurately predicts the size of this powerful red blend of Cabernet Franc (45%), Merlot (37%) and Petit Verdot. Yet, despite its boldness, the wine is not overblown. Supple tannins support the ripe black succulent fruit notes without intruding.… Read more
Tenuta di Castellaro, Terre Siciliane Rosso IGT (Sicily, Italy) “Nero Ossidiana” 2021 ($50)
Located on Lipari Island, just off the coast of Sicily, Tenuta di Castellaro is focusing on Corinto, a native but obscure grape of Sicily. This one Nero Ossidiana, which takes its name from obsidian, a kind of volcanic rock, is a blend of organic Corinto Nero (90%) and Nero d’Avola.… Read more
Tenuta di Castellaro, Terre Siciliane Rosso IGT (Sicily, Italy) “Corinto” 2021 ($70)
Every so often when tasting wines, you come across one, like this grand one, that makes you wonder why you hadn’t known about it sooner. Well, in this case it is because the wine comes from an obscure grape planted on a volcanic island little known for red wines.… Read more
DuCard Vineyards, Virginia Cabernet Franc “Vintner Reserve” 2023 ($63)
Made exclusively from Cabernet Franc grapes from the winery’s 25-year-old estate vineyard helps explain the statue of this midweight delight. Weighing in at a modest 13 percent stated alcohol, it displays more red rather than black fruitiness, which just adds to its elegance and charms.… Read more
50 West Vineyards, Virginia “Aldie Heights Cuvée” 2021 ($70)
You would think for a wine made almost exclusively from Tannat and Petit Verdot, two grapes known for their power, that this wine would be over-the-top. Well, it’s not. Yes, it is dark and plummy, but not just fruity, as hints of minerals and tar sneak in.… Read more
The Place to Experience Japanese Wine and Sake Pairing in Tokyo
In addition to Japan’s longstanding tradition of producing sake, the country has a burgeoning wine industry. Although sake is becoming more widely available in the U.S., Japan wine (koshu) is difficult to find here. One of the joys of coming to Japan in general and Tokyo in particular is to learn about these beverages and how they pair with Japanese cuisine.… Read more
Tenuta Santori, Offida DOCG (Marche, Italy) Pecorino 2022 ($20, Sounder Imports)
Offida, a small area in the southern part of the Marche, has been a DOCG only since 2011. Pecorino (the grape, not the cheese) has been growing in popularity with both growers and consumers. Growers like it because it ripens early, before autumn rains, and is relatively disease resistant.… Read more