With prices for many Côte d’Or wines approaching triple digits, it a treat to find authentic Burgundy with a more affordable price tag. Climate change has helped the wines from the Hautes-Côtes, the areas above the Côte de Nuits, or in this case, the Côte de Beaune, which in the past produced coarse wines because of unripe tannins.… Read more
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Sylvain Pataille, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Les Longeroies 2022 ($82, Vineyard Road)
The wines from Marsannay, the northernmost outpost of the Côte de Nuits, almost a suburb of Dijon, has flown under the radar for decades. Indeed, it gained its legally recognized Village appellation status only in 1987. Prior to that time, its wines could only carry the regional appellation of Bourgogne rouge.… Read more
Antonelli, Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino DOC (Umbria, Italy) “Vigna Tonda” 2023 ($31)
Antonelli, a longtime leading name in the Montefalco region, makes two wines under the Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino DOC, one without skin contact, and this one, with skin contact. Antonelli’s Vigna Tonda displays a delicate orange wine-quality while still maintaining its peppery raciness.… Read more
Domaine de Montille, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir 2022 ($46, DeMeine Estates)
Domaine de Montille, one of Burgundy’s leading producers, has been organic since 1995 and biodynamic since 2005. They have a stunning array of wines that focus on finesse rather than power. With grapes coming come exclusively from their home base in Volnay and plots in Puligny-Montrachet, this refined Bourgogne Rouge is a fine introduction to their style.… Read more
Domaine de Montille, Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves (Burgundy, France) 2021 ($123, DeMeine Estates)
One of the wonderful delights of Montille’s wines is how they express their terroir. That is, how they differ one from the other despite using the same grape, Pinot Noir, grown in the same region, only a few miles apart. This beautiful Beaune, from one of that village’s top premier cru vineyards, delivers an earthier and weightier profile compared to Montille’s more aromatic and suavely textured Volnay Taillepieds.… Read more
Domaine de Montille, Volnay 1er Cru Les Taillepieds (Burgundy, France) 2021 ($196, DeMeine Estates)
Domaine de Montille owns just over 20 percent of Les Taillepieds, one of the finest vineyards in Volnay. So, it is not surprising that it is one of Domaine’s flagship wines. The stunning 2021 grabs you immediately with gorgeous aromatics that leap from the glass.… Read more
Alessandro di Camporeale, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Catarratto “Benedè” 2024 ($20)
Carricante seems to get the spotlight when discussing white grapes/wine from Sicily. But consumers should not overlook Catarratto, which turns out to be Sicily’s most planted grape. Mostly it makes less distinctive wine compared to Carricante. But not always. Take this organic mid-weight one from Camporeale.… Read more
Brassfield Estate, High Valley (Lake County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($35)
Unsurprisingly, the High Valley AVA takes its name from its 1,600 to 3,000 feet above sea level location. The mountains here run east-west, unlike most of the California ranges, and allow the grapes to be cooled by Pacific Ocean breezes. Despite those cooling breezes and the coolness of the elevation, Brassfield manages to get its grapes quite ripe, which results in this powerhouse Cabernet with15.4 percent stated alcohol.… Read more
Antonelli, Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino DOC (Umbria, Italy) “Vigna Tonda” 2023 ($31)
Antonelli, a longtime leading name in the Montefalco region, makes two wines under the Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino DOC, one without skin contact, and this one, with skin contact. Antonelli’s Vigna Tonda displays a delicate orange wine-quality while still maintaining its peppery raciness.… Read more
Tenuta Bellafonte, Montefalco Bianco (Umbria, Italy) “Sperella” 2024 ($24)
Tenuta Bellafonte prefers to take advantage of the Montefalco name by using the Montefalco Bianco DOC for their wine made entirely from Trebbiano Spoletino, an under-the-radar grape that deserves recognition because of its captivating character. Their mid-weight 2024 Sperella marries richness with an appealing and intriguing white pepper-like spiciness that I find characteristic of Trebbiano Spoletino, which, by the way, is unrelated to the more pedestrian Trebbiano Toscana or Trebbiano d’Abruzzo.… Read more
Perticaia, Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino DOC (Umbria, Italy) 2024 ($23)
Perticaia, another top producer in Montefalco, like many producers in this relatively unknown DOC, is trying techniques in the cellar to expand the spectrum of this underappreciated grape. This wine, labeled simply with the grape name, spends a three to six months on the lees after undergoing a few days of skin contact during fermentation.… Read more
Estival, Horse Heaven Hills (Washington) Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ($19)
Estival is a new label launched by the very talented and well-regarded Ste. Michelle Wine Estates whose extensive portfolio focuses on the Pacific Northwest. Given their track record and experience, you’d expect quality and that’s what you get. This pure and crisp Sauvignon Blanc delivers lively and welcoming palate-awakening prickliness and pungency without aggressiveness.… Read more
Cecchi, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Storia di Famiglia” 2023 ($23, Terlato)
Cecchi, a top Tuscan producer, fashioned this beefier style of Chianti Classico. Fine tannins make it easy to enjoy its combination of black fruit intertwined with subtle earthiness now. Enlivening acidity keeps it fresh throughout a meal. It is an easy choice for anything from burgers to grilled steak.… Read more
Brassfield Estate, High Valley (Lake County, California) Volcano Ridge Vineyard “Eruption” 2021 ($28)
The High Valley AVA lies in eastern Lake County at roughly 1,600 to 3,000 feet above sea level. Its east-west mountain orientation, like that in Sta. Rita Valley in Santa Barbara County, is unusual in California and allows for cooling breezes off the Pacific Ocean.… Read more
Tenuta Alzatura, Montefalco Bianco DOC (Umbria, Italy) “Cortili” 2024 ($35)
Tenuta Alzatura could label their Cortili as DOC Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino since it is made entirely from Trebbiano Spoletino, a unique grape that makes fare more distinctive wines than the more pedestrian Trebbiano Toscana. Instead, they opt to use Montefalco Bianco DOC because of Montefalco’s name recognition.… Read more
Tenuta Alzatura, Montefalco Bianco DOC (Umbria, Italy) “Aria di Casa” 2022 ($54)
In addition to their Cortili, Tenuta Alzatura also ferments and ages Trebbiano Spoletino in 500-liter new oak barrels, which adds an extra dimension to their Aria de Casa. The subtle oak exposure imparts an alluring layer of complexity to the still fresh and balanced 2022 Aria di Casa without losing any of the grape’s energy.… Read more
Tenuta Perano, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2021 ($24, Vintus)
Even a quick look at the label tells you that you have a winner with this wine. Frescobaldi is one of Italy’s top producers. Chianti Classico is as reliable a DOCG as you will find. And 2021 produced racy and balanced wines in throughout Tuscany.… Read more
Ian D’Agata Wine Review: Weekly Wines in the Spotlight
Domaine Huet 2002 Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Mont Loire France 95
by Michael Apstein
Domaine Huet’s stunning 2002 Le Mont Demi-Sec is a masterpiece at 20+ years of age, combining a near magical freshness with maturity. A luminous golden color announces its age, while its vitality belies it.… Read more
Domaine de la Guilloterie, Saumur Blanc (Loire Valley, France) “Elegance Brézé” 2023 ($28)
White wines from Saumur are typically dry even though they are made from Chenin Blanc, a grape many people associate with sweet wine. Inexplicably, these racy white Saumur fly under the radar. I call them the Chablis of the Loire for their crisp and stoney signature.… Read more
Tedeschi, Valpolicella DOC (Veneto, Italy) “Lucchine” 2024 ($18)
Tedeschi, a well-established family-owned producer in Valpolicella, makes a lovely range of wines from that DOC. Take this refreshing light-bodied 2024 Lucchine, for example. With its pale color, it could almost pass for a rosé. But one sip of its bright, cherry-like flavors accented by the barest hint of spice tells you it’s not.… Read more
Tedeschi, Valpolicella Superiore (Veneto, Italy) “Nicalò” 2022 ($26)
Although Tedeschi’s Valpolicella Superiore is marginally darker and more powerful than their enticing Valpolicella Lucchine, the major difference is how a subtle, yet apparent, hint of savory earthiness balances its dark fruitiness. Tedeschi signature suave texture makes it lovely to drink now.… Read more
Tedeschi, Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso (Veneto, Italy) “Capitel San Rocco” 2021 ($31)
Tedeschi shows the potential for Valpolicella by making one for all seasons. Their Lucchine is perfect for sipping in the summer while Nicalò’s power makes it ideal for the fall. And this one, the more muscular Capitel San Rocco, weighing at a higher, 14.5 percent, stated alcohol, will warm you in the winter.… Read more
Bodega Lanzaga, Rioja (La Rioja, Spain) “Lanzaga” 2020 ($42, The Rare Wine Company)
Telmo Rodriguez, owner of Bodega Lanzaga and one of Spain’s most important and dynamic producers, is trying to reinvent the wines of Rioja. He focuses on terroir as opposed to the traditional emphasis on brand name and classifying wines by how long they age prior to release.… Read more
I Went for the Reds but Fell in Love with the Whites: Umbria’s Trebbiano Spoletino
The calling card of Montefalco, a gem of a hill-town in Umbria, is Sagrantino, a grape that makes robust, high alcohol, tannic red wine. Earlier this year, the Consorzio Tutela Vini Montefalco invited me to their annual tasting that showcases their red wines, Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG and Rosso di Montefalco DOC.… Read more
Rome – Drinking, Dining, & Savoring the Sites
With hundreds of indigenous Italian grapes and an even greater number of Italian wines, selecting just one presents a challenge. But the reward is great. Italian wines can be as thrilling as any in the world. Plus, they are perfectly suited for food, and not just Italian food, and, for the most part, vastly underpriced given the quality and enjoyment they provide.… Read more
Delas, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Saint-Esprit” 2023 ($16, Maisons Marques et Domaines)
Côtes du Rhône, a vast appellation encompassing vineyards both in the southern and northern Rhône, produces a range of wines from ordinary to superb. Since Delas is a noted producer in the Rhône, it comes as no surprise that their Saint-Esprit is consistently enjoyable despite being a relatively large production wine they produce by utilizing fruit under contract from other growers as well.… Read more
Tenute Lunelli, Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG (Umbria, Italy) “Carapace” 2021 ($54, Taub Family Selections)
The DOCG of Montefalco Sagrantino has a well-deserved reputation for producing robust red wines replete with tannins and alcohol. What immediately stands out in Lunelli’s youthful 2021 Carapace and grabs your attention is its suave tannins and texture. Lunelli’s winemaker, Luca Capaldini, quips, “grapes that grow in the darkness hold onto tannins,” so they remove leaves during the growing season to let the grapes see the sun.… Read more
San Felice, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Poggio Rosso” 2020 ($85, Total Beverage Solutions)
New regulations for Gran Selezione, Chianti Classico’s top tier, permit the producer to put the Chianti Classico subzone on the label (in this case, Castelnuovo Berardenga, the southernmost subzone which typically produces the ripest fruit of the Chianti Classico districts). San Felice, one of Tuscany’s top producers, has fashioned a ripe wine with a wonderfully paradoxical restraint and complexity.… Read more
Antonelli, Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino DOC (Umbria, Italy) “Vigna Tonda” 2024 ($32)
Antonelli ferments their Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino labeled Vigna Tonda with a few days of skin contact, which imparts a delicate orange wine-like character without overwhelming its raciness. It too, like their Trebium, has good weight and a spicy component that is very alluring.… Read more
Antonelli, Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino DO (Umbria, Italy) “Trebium” 2024 ($23)
Let me unravel the name of this DOC since it’s confusing with both a geographic name, Spoleto, and a grape name, Trebbiano Spoletino. Spoleto is a well-known (at least to music lovers) town in Umbria. Trebbiano Spoletino is an ancient Umbrian variety that is distinct from, and makes far more interesting wine than, the more common Trebbiano Toscano or Trebbiano Abruzzo.… Read more
Ken Forrester, Stellenbosch South Africa Chenin Blanc Old Vine Reserve 2024 ($19)
South Africa is justifiably known for Chenin Blanc, its signature grape, because of the quality of the wines made from it. And for reasons I don’t understand, Chenin Blanc wines from South Africa, like this one, are underappreciated — and underpriced — for what they deliver.… Read more
Iron Horse, Green Valley of Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Winery Block 2020 ($87)
Unsurprisingly, Iron Horse, a leader in sparkling wine made from the traditional grapes, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, knows something about Pinot Noir, as this rendition shows. This ripe, mid-weight Pinot Noir focuses on the bright Green Valley fruit for which the sub-region is known.… Read more
Domaine des Baumard, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) Clos du Papillon 2021 ($60, Vintus)
Savennières, a small appellation just west of Angers in the Loire Valley, produces the most prized dry wines made from Chenin Blanc. Clos du Papillon is one of the top vineyards in the appellation. Add to that Baumard, one of the best producers in the region, and it’s no surprise that you wind up with a sensational bottle of wine.… Read more
Alheit Vineyards, Paardeberg (Swartland, South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Fire by Night” 2024 ($77)
Alheit Vineyards shows that South Africa can produce stunning Chenin Blanc, and at a modest level of alcohol. Their glossy and vibrant 2024 Fire by Night, from 40- to 50-year-old vines, delivers mouth-coating richness without heaviness. The 12.5 percent stated alcohol shows that richness and depth can be attained with excessive ripeness.… Read more
Arnaud Lambert, Saumur (Loire Valley, France) “Midi” 2023 ($26)
Though not an officially delimited area, Brézé is the unofficial “grand cru” area of Saumur. Saumur is an outlier in the Loire because it makes dry wines from Chenin Blanc, the region’s signature grape. One of the beautiful aspects of Chenin Blanc is that it can make both enticingly dry and voluptuously sweet wines, which, of course, presents a question for the consumer: How do you know what you’re getting?… Read more
Kaltern, Alto Adige/Sudtirol (Italy) Blauburgunder / Pinot Nero 2024 ($23)
Since the Alto Adige region was formerly a part of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire until Italy annexed it in 1919 after World War I, it retains a Germanic cultural presence. Hence, the wine labels are both in German and Italian. Kaltern, a highly regarded cooperative in the region, makes a range of wines, including this lively Pinot Noir (also known as Blauburgunder in German).… Read more
Kaltern, Kalterersee Classico Superiore DOC (Alto Adige / Sudtirol, Italy) “Quintessenz” 2023 ($35)
Savory herbal notes add intrigue to this refined mid-weight red made from the Schiava grape. While having similarly mild tannins that allow for chilling this summer, it displays more black fruit when compared to Kaltern’s red-fruited Pinot Nero. A smooth texture adds to its overall sense of elegance.… Read more
Michael Shaps, Virginia Wild Meadow Vineyard Chardonnay 2022 ($28)
Michael Shaps studied viticulture and winemaking at the Lycée Viticole de Beaune, a prestigious school in the heart of Burgundy. About a decade later, he started making wine in Virginia under the Michael Shaps label. He also has a small winery in Meursault under the Maison Shaps label.… Read more
Cavazza, Colli Berici DOC (Veneto, Italy) “Fornetto” 2023 ($32)
Cavazza achieves balance and complexity by adding Tocai Rosso, a local grape, and Syrah to this Merlot-dominant blend. Plumy red fruit combined with spicy elements results in a lush and succulent, but not heavy, red. Mild tannins allow for current enjoyment.… Read more
Frog’s Leap, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay “Shale and Stone” 2022 ($42)
Frog’s Leap, which released its first vintage in 1981, is no newcomer to Napa Valley. Still family owned, Frog’s Leap has been making this restrained and delightful Chardonnay since 1985 from grapes grown in the cooler Carneros region of Napa Valley.… Read more
Mezzacorona, Trentino DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio “Domenica” 2024 ($15, Prestige Wine Imports)
Mezzacorona, a co-operative established in 1904 with a handful of members, now has more than 1500 of them. Co-ops often get a bad rap, but in my experience, the best of them skillfully separate members’ grapes into tiers, capturing an excellent quality to price ratio.… Read more
Barboursville Vineyards, Virginia Vermentino Reserve 2023 ($23)
Barboursville Vineyards certainly must be one Virginia’s top wineries. Their “Octagon” blend — a sensational red — is a consistent winner. Now, with this Vermentino, they have another stellar bottling. Delicately aromatic, this mid-weight (13.5 percent state alcohol) beauty has an alluring texture often lacking in Vermentino.… Read more
Potomac Point Vineyard and Winery, Virginia Albariño 2023 ($39)
Well done Potomac Point Vineyard and Winery! I knew nothing about this winery before tasting this stunning Albariño. Who knew someone in Virginia was making Albariño, not exactly a well-known grape, especially on these shores? (Albariño, for those who don’t know, is the signature grape of Rías Baixas in Spain’s northwest corner).… Read more
The Winery at La Grange, Virginia Catherine’s Vineyard Petit Manseng 2023 ($37)
Although precise statistics are difficult to find, with its roughly 180 acres, Virginia may have the most Petit Manseng planted in the U.S. (The California Department of Food and Agriculture doesn’t even list Petit Manseng in their acreage planting by variety statistics.)… Read more
Donnafugata, Etna Rosso DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Sul Vulcano” 2021 ($36, Folio Fine Wine Partners)
Donnafugata, one of Sicily’s top producers, once again succeeds brilliantly with this intriguing light to mid-weight red. It delivers far more punch than its weight suggests. Although a hint of cherry-like fruit is apparent, the focus here is on its savory aspects of lava-like minerals and spice.… Read more
Attems, Collio DOC (Friuli – Venezia Giulia, Italy) “Cicinis” 2022 ($33, Vintus)
What a difference place makes! With Cicinis, Frescobaldi uses Sauvignon Blanc planted in Collio, which elevates it to a DOC wine instead of an IGT designated one. In contrast to their IGT Sauvignon Blanc that focuses on the varietal—fruity—aspect of the grape, Cicinis spotlights its mineral notes and mouthfeel.… Read more
Mosnel, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Brut NV ($42)
Mosnel is one of the great producers of Franciacorta, Italy’s high-end sparkling wine. Though the wines of Franciacorta undergo the traditional secondary fermentation in the bottle, so the so-called “Champagne method,” the blend of grapes can be different. For this Chardonnay-dominant wine, Mosnel blends Pinot Blanc (23 percent), a touch of Pinot Noir (5 percent) and Erbamet (1 percent), a long-forgotten local variety, to achieve a layered complexity.… Read more
Bruno Giacosa, Roero Arneis DOCG (Langhe, Italy) 2022 ($40, Folio Fine Wine Partners)
Bruno Giacosa, arguably Barolo’s most famous producer, also makes this engaging Arneis from across the Tanaro River in Roero. The intriguing combination of delicate aromas of minerals mixed with white flowers draws you in. Minerals, rather than an overt fruitiness, appear and persist on the palate.… Read more
Attems, Venezia Giulia IGT (Italy) Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($20, Vintus)
It is no surprise that a wine from a Frescobaldi estate, is easy to recommend. After all, Frescobaldi is one of Italy’s leading producers and one that rarely disappoints. This cutting and refreshing IGT Sauvignon Blanc delivers the herbal and engagingly pungent character of the variety.… Read more
Iron Horse, Green Valley of the Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Russian River Cuvée” 2020 ($58)
Founded and still owned by the Sterling family, Iron Horse is an icon of California sparkling wine. This compelling Russian River Cuvée, a blend of three-quarters Pinot Noir along with Chardonnay, was created to be served during the Reagan-Gorbachev summit in 1985 that arguably signaled the end of the Cold War.… Read more