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Palmer & Co, Champagne (France) “La Réserve Nature” NV ($55, Quintessential)

This masterful Chardonnay-dominant blend contains a significant portion (a third) of reserve wine, which likely helps explain its stature. No dosage allows the clear fruit and mineral aspect to speak clearly. Even without a touch of sugar to round its edges — there are no edges to round — its impeccable balance and length make this a joy to drink.… Read more

Domaine Louis Latour, Aloxe-Corton Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) “Les Chaillots” 2023 ($105, Louis Latour USA)

The Latour style — imbuing the wines with excellent acidity — worked especially well in 2023, which generally produced fleshy, generous wines with lower acidity. This splendid 2023 Les Chaillots could be considered a “baby” Corton Grancey, Latour’s flagship red. It delivers what for me is the typical iron-tinged body and firmness of red Corton.… Read more

Château Patache d’Aux, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2018 ($39)

Château Patache d’Aux, another overachiever, gained Cru Bourgeois Supérieur status, a step up from Cru Bourgeois, with the 2025 classification. The youthful 2018 delivers great aromatics followed by an attractive dark, slightly tarry mineral underpinning. I would open and decant this beauty a few hours before serving or, alternatively, keep it in the cellar for another couple of years.… Read more

Domaine Pavelot, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2023 ($30, Vineyard Road)

Based in Savigny-lès-Beaune, Domaine Pavelot’s Bourgogne Rouge comes from plots in that village plus the villages of Pernand-Vergelesses and Alox-Corton, but obviously outside of those village appellation boundaries, so it is reflective of the Côte de Beaune. This well-priced 2023 has good weight and a marvelous combination of berry fruit and savory non-fruit nuances that make Burgundy unique.… Read more

Domaine Jean-Marc Bouley, Hautes-Côtes de Beaune (Burgundy, France) “Vibrations” 2022 ($80, Vineyard Road)

Domaine Jean-Marc Bouley has embraced a “modern” label, displaying a proprietary name prominently while relegating the appellation to the back label. The wine itself is quite traditional—and stunning. The roughly 2.5-acre plot from which the Pinot Noir for this wine comes is located on a slope just above Volnay with excellent southern exposure.… Read more

Domaine Pierre Boisson, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($50 , Vineyard Road)

With prices for many Côte d’Or wines approaching triple digits, it a treat to find authentic Burgundy with a more affordable price tag. Climate change has helped the wines from the Hautes-Côtes, the areas above the Côte de Nuits, or in this case, the Côte de Beaune, which in the past produced coarse wines because of unripe tannins.… Read more

Domaine de Montille, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir 2022 ($46, DeMeine Estates)

Domaine de Montille, one of Burgundy’s leading producers, has been organic since 1995 and biodynamic since 2005. They have a stunning array of wines that focus on finesse rather than power. With grapes coming come exclusively from their home base in Volnay and plots in Puligny-Montrachet, this refined Bourgogne Rouge is a fine introduction to their style.… Read more

Domaine de Montille, Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves (Burgundy, France) 2021 ($123, DeMeine Estates)

One of the wonderful delights of Montille’s wines is how they express their terroir. That is, how they differ one from the other despite using the same grape, Pinot Noir, grown in the same region, only a few miles apart. This beautiful Beaune, from one of that village’s top premier cru vineyards, delivers an earthier and weightier profile compared to Montille’s more aromatic and suavely textured Volnay Taillepieds.… Read more

Brassfield Estate, High Valley (Lake County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($35)

Unsurprisingly, the High Valley AVA takes its name from its 1,600 to 3,000 feet above sea level location. The mountains here run east-west, unlike most of the California ranges, and allow the grapes to be cooled by Pacific Ocean breezes. Despite those cooling breezes and the coolness of the elevation, Brassfield manages to get its grapes quite ripe, which results in this powerhouse Cabernet with15.4 percent stated alcohol.… Read more

Tenuta Bellafonte, Montefalco Bianco (Umbria, Italy) “Sperella” 2024 ($24)

Tenuta Bellafonte prefers to take advantage of the Montefalco name by using the Montefalco Bianco DOC for their wine made entirely from Trebbiano Spoletino, an under-the-radar grape that deserves recognition because of its captivating character. Their mid-weight 2024 Sperella marries richness with an appealing and intriguing white pepper-like spiciness that I find characteristic of Trebbiano Spoletino, which, by the way, is unrelated to the more pedestrian Trebbiano Toscana or Trebbiano d’Abruzzo.… Read more

Estival, Horse Heaven Hills (Washington) Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ($19)

Estival is a new label launched by the very talented and well-regarded Ste. Michelle Wine Estates whose extensive portfolio focuses on the Pacific Northwest. Given their track record and experience, you’d expect quality and that’s what you get. This pure and crisp Sauvignon Blanc delivers lively and welcoming palate-awakening prickliness and pungency without aggressiveness.… Read more