Everyone is familiar with the French Paradox: the French eat a diet rich in fat, but have a low rate of heart disease. Another French paradox is why Alsace Riesling is not more popular in the United States. By all rights, it should fly off the shelves.… Read more
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L’Ecole No. 41, Walla Walla (Washington) Pepper Bridge Vineyard Red Blend “Apogee” 2003
($45): Marty Clubb makes two wines, Apogee and Perigee, meant to mirror each other as expressions of two of the best known vineyards in Walla Walla, Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills. The latter tends toward a feminine, floral brightness underlined by an earth core; the former is usually has much deeper structure and a darker fruit profile.… Read more
Houghton, Western Australia (Australia) Chardonnay-Verdelho 2005
($14, Houghton Wines): Houghton uses an alluring blend of two-thirds Chardonnay and one-third Verdelho to capture the virtues of each variety. The Verdelho adds an intriguing floral character while the Chardonnay provides stuffing–but, in the Western Australian tradition–without heaviness. A tangy finish keeps the wine interesting throughout a meal.… Read more
For Seafood, Spanish Winemakers Finally Getting It White
Spain has the largest per capita consumption of seafood – after Japan – according to David Parker, Export Manager of Castillo Perelada, one of Spain’s leading wineries. But when I think of Spanish wines, it is the great reds from that country – Rioja, Priorat, Ribera del Duero – that leap to mind.… Read more
Australia’s western frontier: Maverick vintners make sophisticated, well-priced wines on the other side of the Outback
Everyone knows about Australia’s inexpensive, fruit-driven, mass-produced wines — think Yellow Tail, the largest-selling wine brand in U.S. food stores by dollar volume, according to ACNielsen.
But there is a wine-producing part of the country that shatters just about every aspect of that image.… Read more
Prosecco: Sparkling Summer Sipping
Prosecco, Italy’s unique and stellar contribution to the world of sparkling wine, must have been invented for summertime. Although the Italians drink it year round as an aperitif (consuming over two-thirds of the region’s 3 million case annual production), summer is the perfect discovery time for those unfamiliar with the joys of this light and “friendly” wine. … Read more
It Takes a Noble Grape to Make a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano exemplifies the confusion surrounding Italian wine labels. This wine’s meteoric increase in quality over the past decade has yet to be matched by its price, so it’s definitely worth unraveling the name.
The Italians name their wines by place name, such as Chianti, or grape name — think Pinot Grigio — or both, Dolcetto d’Alba. … Read more
Whitehaven, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2005
($16, E&J Gallo): It has the piercing citric — really limey — character we have grown to expect from Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, but a touch of minerality amplifies its appeal. 91 Michael Apstein May 16, 2006… Read more
Jackson Estate, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2004
($16): While many Marlborough Sauvignons grab and then pierce your tongue, Jackson Estate’s 2004 conveys a different style; mostly, I think, because of the extra year of age. Not quite as electrifying, but still plenty lively and fresh, its earthy minerality captivates and adds complexity.… Read more
Everybody Loves a Deal: Alter Ego
Everybody loves a deal, and some of the best deals in Bordeaux these days are the “second” wines of the top-rated Bordeaux properties. “Second wines” come from parcels of the vineyard or barrels in the cellar that, for whatever reason, just don’t measure up to the producer’s standard for that particular year.… Read more
Special Report: Bordeaux 2005 Tasting Notes
The following notes are based on barrel samples tasted (unblinded) at the chateaux, at an unblinded tasting organized by the Cercle Rive Droite de Grands Vins de Bordeaux, an association of Right Bank producers, an unblinded tasting organized by Bill Blatch, a respected négociant, or at blind tastings organized by the Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux.… Read more
Special Report: Bordeaux 2005, A Vintage to Cellar
After a week in Bordeaux, where I tasted more than 400 wines from the 2005 vintage, there is no question that this is a great vintage for red, dry white and sweet white wines. Although nature was equally benevolent across the regions, winemaking techniques (how long to macerate, how much new wood) and decisions (when to pick) resulted in dramatically different styles of wine, especially in Saint-Emilion.… Read more
Salitage, Pemberton (Western Australia) Shiraz “Treehouse” 2003
($15, Wines West): The Treehouse label is used for Solitage wines made from purchased fruit, usually from a single vineyard, within the Pemberton region. A nice balance of peppery and plumy flavors and a lovely finish makes this Shiraz a steal at the price.… Read more
Capel Vale, Mount Barker (Great Southern, Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz Kinnaird Vineyard Black Label 2001
($45, multiple distributors): A single vineyard wine from the Mount Barker region of the Great Southern, this is a very appealing, cocoa-infused, meaty and lush style of Shiraz that is remarkably silky and long. Nicely evolved, it’s lovely to drink now.… Read more
Capel Vale, Mount Barker (Great Southern, Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz Kinnaird Vineyard Black Label 2003
($45, multiple distributors): Less meaty than the 2001, presumably because it is younger and bottled under screw cap, it still has a hint of that lovely gamy quality. It’s fresh, lush and juicy with a remarkable silkiness and elegance for its power.… Read more
Evans and Tate, Margaret River (Western Australia) “Classic Red” 2003
($14, Scott Street Portfolio): A blend of 2/3 Shiraz and 1/3 Cabernet Sauvignon, this Classic Red is a great value. Filled with spice and plums, it is surprisingly complex for the price. Its suppleness is part of the charm. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006
Voyager, Margaret River (Western Australia) 2004
($18, Serge Doré Selections, Ltd.): Voyager blended in a little Viognier into this bottling, which likely explains its lovely floral quality. A spicy and enticing black pepper component, along with great length and finesse, reinforces its similarity to wines from the Northern Rhône.… Read more
Evans and Tate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Shiraz 2003
($18, Scott Street Portfolio): Another great value from Evans and Tate, this Shiraz has meaty overtones along with pepper and plum-like flavors. A savory wine, it holds its 14.5% alcohol effortlessly. 93 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006
Alkoomi, Frankland River (Western Australia) Shiraz White Label 2004
($13, Ravensvale Group): An atypical Australian Shiraz, the charm of this lovely wine lies in the interplay of understated fruit flavors with gamy, earthy notes. 91 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006
Ferngrove, Frankland River (Western Australia) Shiraz White Label 2003
($13, Partners Wine Marketing): Sourced from Ferngrove’s estate vineyards, this Shiraz delivers rich, ripe, plumy flavors without overwhelming the attractive gamy notes. A long and lovely wine at a wonderful price. 92 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006
Ferngrove, Frankland River (Western Australia) “The Sterling” 2004
($29, Partners Wine Marketing): A blend of two-thirds Shiraz and one-third Cabernet, Ferngrove’s flagship wine has a fabulous mix of notes including chocolate, smoke and tobacco. It’s a big wine, yet balanced, with great finesse. 93 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006
Alkoomi, Frankland River (Western Australia) Shiraz/Viognier Black Label 2004
($21, Ravensvale Group): Another restrained style of Shiraz with long, layered flavors that linger. Although the blend includes only two percent Viognier, that little dash provides real lift and an added layer of finesse. 93 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006
Alkoomi, Frankland River (Western Australia) Shiraz “Jarrah” 2002
($38, Ravensvale Group): Alkoomi’s top-of-the-line Shiraz takes its name from a local hardwood tree. It has a great combination of succulent fruit and meaty flavors, which are balanced rather than not overdone. 95 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006
Capel Vale, Western Australia (Australia) Shiraz “Sheldrake” 2002
($15, multiple distributors): Two thirds of the fruit comes from Pemberton, which gives this a lovely black pepper character, while the third that comes from the warmer Geographe subregion supplies ripeness and richness. The overall effect is a lovely balance of plums and pepper.… Read more
Western Australia: A Different Style of Shiraz
Shiraz (aka Syrah) is now firmly in place as Australia’s most popular grape–and wine. But it wasn’t always that way. From the mid-1970s to the mid-1980s, plantings of Shiraz went down by half (to about 12,500 acres) because the Australian government paid growers to pull out vines as consumption of red table wine fell from fashion.… Read more
Josmeyer, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc “Mise du Printemps” 2004
($27, Paterno Wines): Pinot Blanc represents the neutral baseline of the world’s white wines in terms of aromas and flavors, but this Pinot Blanc is actually an exciting wine. On the nose it expresses broad, minerally notes as well as gentle floral character.… Read more
Hay Shed Hill, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
($26, Artemis Wines International): The usual–for Margaret River–delightful combination of ripe fruit and herbs buttressed by excellent structure marks this very nice wine. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
Cullen, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) “Mangan” 2004
($42, Young’s Market): A fascinating blend of 60% Malbec and 40% Petit Verdot, this purple, inky wine looks huge, but actually is more like an intense, juicy Dolcetto with fine tannins and great character. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
Vasse Felix, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot “Adams Road” 2003
($15, Negociants USA): Rich and supple, with some herbal elements, this wine reflects the interplay of sweet ripe fruit and slightly savory elements. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
Howard Park, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Leston Vineyard 2003
($20, Commonwealth Wine & Spirits): Lovely cassis fruit, hints of chocolate and fine tannins combine to make this a juicy, fleshy wine. A great $20 value! 90 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
Deep Woods Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
($25, Outback Red Imports): The relatively warm location of this estate probably explains the wine’s abundant cassis character and its more subtle herbal elements. Length and supple, ripe tannins make it an engaging wine even at this young age. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
Deep Woods Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2004
($35, Outback Red Imports): Owner Peter Fogarty says that this is his best wine. Made entirely from their estate-grown fruit, the Merlot component imparts an attractive herbal character that complements the overall juicy impression. It has an impressive, silky texture. 91 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Art Series” 1999
($45, Old Bridge Cellars): This succulent wine offers not just fruit flavors but also hints of chocolate. Despite a slightly hot finish, it’s a classy, complex wine. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
Hay Shed Hill, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Etched Label” 2003
($55, Artemis Wines International): This is a resounding success for the first vintage of what is sure to be this producer’s flagship wine. The quality and complexity comes from 35-year old vines, low yields (two to three tons per acre), and the talent of winemaker Nigel Kinsman.… Read more
Vasse Felix, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
($27, Negociants USA): Some Margaret River wineries had trouble ripening Cabernet in 2002 because it was an unusually cool growing season. Vasse Felix succeeded admirably because they used more grapes from the warmer–northern–part of the region. They fashioned a silky, ripe cassis-infused wine that still retains attractively herbal, but not unripe, elements.… Read more
Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Art Series” 2000
($45, Old Bridge Cellars): I tasted this at a seminar on Australian and New Zealand wines that I led for a group of undergraduate students at Harvard after my return from Western Australia. It was the wine of the night and a perfect accompaniment to roasted lamb.… Read more
Cullen, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) “Diana Madeline” 2004
($70, Young’s Market): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Cullen’s flagship wine is named in honor of Vanya’s mother. Intense but balanced and layered, it has great complexity and finesse. Floral notes and aromatic hints of herbs and spice get this wine off to a great start, and nicely interwoven ripe fruit flavors finish with supple tannins.… Read more
Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Art Series” 2001
($45, Old Bridge Cellars): A harmonious combination of subtle chocolate, herbs, and yes, plenty of fruit, makes you want to drink this now. But resist. Drink the 2000 now and cellar this one for a few years because it will improve as the tannins soften and the flavors continue to unfold.… Read more
Howard Park, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Scotsdale Vineyard 2003
($20, Commonwealth Wine & Spirits): This wine’s ripe fruit flavors balance the herbal and floral notes, which are more pronounced here than in the Margaret River bottling because the Great Southern region is notably cooler. This is an elegant, layered wine, and another great value!… Read more
Refined Reds from the Wild West
The labels say “product of Australia,” but red wines from Western Australia are about as un-Australian as you can get. Those expecting super ripe flavors and 15 percent alcohol so common in Australian wines are in for a major–and pleasant–surprise. These wines, whether made from Cabernet or Shiraz, have elegance, finesse and complexity.… Read more
Starved Dog Lane, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz/Viognier 2003
($15, Pacific Wine Partners): The Aussies, following what the French often do in Côte Rôtie, have blended a little white wine, Viognier, with Shiraz. The delicate floral elements, undoubtedly from the Viognier, tame the Shiraz without stripping it of spice. The cooler Adelaide Hills climate imparts a refreshing lift.… Read more
Lindemans, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz Reserve 2002
($10): Reserve 2002 ($10): A big step above their Bin 50 Southeastern Australian Shiraz, the Reserve bottling, drawn exclusively from sources in South Australia, is a great buy. Its gamey, earthy complexity is an unexpected surprise for a wine at this price.… Read more
Fox Creek, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz/Grenache 2001
($19, Vineyard Brands): This is yet another intense Australian wine that carries its 14.5+ percent alcohol effortlessly. A juicy combination of spice from Grenache and rich plumminess from Shiraz makes this wine a joy to drink. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 28, 2006… Read more
Craggy Range Winery, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Gimblett Gravels Vineyard “Le Sol” 2002
($60, Kobrand): Craggy Range Winery, an outstanding producer specializing in wines from single vineyards, has entered the upscale Syrah sweepstakes with their Le Sol offering. Their philosophy is that unique wines arise from unique growing conditions; hence their single vineyard focus.… Read more
Red Bicyclette, Vin de Pays d’Oc (France) Syrah 2004
($10, Red Bicyclette, USA): I was prepared not to like this wine because of its cutesy name and label, but in fact, it is a pleasant, high value, southern French red wine. Plummy and quite supple, it is easy to drink before a meal and then take it to the table with burgers.… Read more
Bodegas Vinedos de Murcia, Jumilla (Spain) Shiraz/Cabernet/Monastrell “Mad Dogs and Englishmen” 2003
($10, Click Imports): At least some Spaniards have learned quickly how to market Old World wines to us geographically-challenged New World wines drinkers. They put the seemingly incomprehensible, but of course, essential, geographic material on the back label. The consumer is captured by the far more memorable name, Mad Dogs and Englishmen, followed by the varietal blend, on the front label.… Read more
Red Bicyclette, Vin de Pays d’Oc (France) Syrah 2004
($10, Red Bicyclette, USA): I was prepared not to like this wine because of its cutesy name and label, but in fact, it is a pleasant, high value, southern French red wine. Plummy and quite supple, it is easy to drink before a meal and then take it to the table with burgers.… Read more
Vintage New York
The current fashion in wine, certainly in New World wines, is for ripe, fruity flavors and the massive alcohol that invariably accompanies them. Consumers looking for alternatives need to look outside the mainstream. Wines from New York State, which certainly qualify as “outside the mainstream,” offer an extra touch of ripeness that is the New World’s signature, while retaining vibrancy that a cool climate imparts.… Read more
Palmer Vineyards, North Fork of Long Island (New York) Chardonnay 2004
($15): Tired of heavy, out of balance New World Chardonnay? Try this delicious wine, not lean and green as some East Coast whites can be, but lush without being overdone. Its bright acidity keeps it lively during a meal. A great value.… Read more
Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (Australia) Shiraz 2002
($16, Hess Collection Imports): Peter Lehmann makes a range of excellent wines. This boisterous Barossa Valley wine delivers smoky, earthy elements in the nose that follow on the palate. Remarkable suppleness makes it easy to drink. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2006… Read more