Steele, Lake County (California) Cabernet Franc 2015

($19):  Many people in the wine trade tell me that they avoid Cabernet Franc because it can deliver vegetal flavors if not entirely ripe.  It can.  But it can also be the basis for a spectacular wine — think Bordeaux’s Château Cheval Blanc — by providing a needed savory component.  Now, I don’t mean to suggest that Steele’s Cabernet Franc resembles Cheval Blanc, but it does have an enticingly leafy, “not just fruit” character.  For those who prefer pure up-front fruitiness in a wine, this one might not please you.  But for those, who, like I, prefer a few savory notes in a wine, this would be a good choice for current drinking.
92 Michael Apstein May 15, 2018