Americans love Chianti. Even those who rarely drink recognize the wine. It has the kind of name recognition that other wines can only dream about. Annually, we Americans actually drink almost twice as much Chianti Classico–wine from Chianti’s most important sub-region–as the Italians do.… Read more
Category Archives: WRO Articles
Why Are Italian Wines So Popular?
Italian wine has always been popular in the U.S., and today accounts for a staggering one out of every three bottles imported into this country. … Read more
The Luberon: A Source of Wine for Winter Fare
Those of us in New England are now in the heart of winter. The short cold days and long nights fairly scream for hearty fare, such as lamb shanks or other slow cooked “stick to your ribs” fare–as my mother used to call it.… Read more
Apstein’s Winery of the Year for 2014: Maison Louis Latour
Maison Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s best négociants, is my choice for winery of 2014 because it excels with wines at all levels, especially the less prestigious ones, and even their “simple” Bourgogne Rouge. … Read more
Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise: A Forgotten Gem
Trends in wine can be hard to understand. Current fashion, for example, catapults high-scoring “cult” wines, often more suitable for tasting than for drinking, to frenzied popularity and stratospheric prices. By contrast, Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, a well priced and versatile wine that is equally at home before dinner as it is at the end of the meal, risks extinction. … Read more
Are Old Vines Important?
What does it really mean when a label touts a wine as being made from “old vines?” (This would be rendered as Vieilles Vignes, Vecchie Viti or Viñas Viejas, depending on whether you’ve got a French, Italian or Spanish import.)… Read more
Estate Wines: What are They, and Are They Worth the Price?
The word “Estate” on a bottle of wine lends prestige and often entails a bigger price tag. But what does the term really mean…and is this designation actually worth the price premium?… Read more
Back to School
Along with the burgeoning interest in wine among American consumers has come an explosion of opportunities to learn about wine. It’s a far different state of affairs now than in the late 1970s and early 1980s, when I was learning about wine.… Read more
A Chablis Primer, With Good News Regarding 2012
Forgive me for beating this drum again, but Chablis remains one of the best–and perhaps the single best–white wine value in today’s world. As for recent developments, the 2012 vintage now on retailers’ shelves is not to be missed. … Read more
Prosecco: The Pinot Grigio of Bubbly?
Prosecco’s popularity around the world has soared–and for good reason. It’s a delightfully fresh and lively bubbly, perfect as an aperitif, especially in the summertime. “It’s a party in a bottle,” as Paul Wagner, head of Balzac Communications, a leading California marketing and public relations firm, described it.… Read more
Age-Worthy Italian White Wine is not an Oxymoron
Livio Felluga’s Terre Alte redefines Italian white wine for me. Andrea Felluga, the current winemaker and general manager of the family-run firm, was recently in New York and led a vertical tasting of eight vintages
of Terre Alte, spanning 15 years, back to 1997, that showed how magnificently this white wine developed with bottle age.… Read more
Jadot in Oregon: Another French Invasion?
Jadot’s seemingly sudden expansion into Oregon was, as Pierre Henry Gagey, President of Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top producers, describes it, “a perfect storm,” though a good one in this instance.… Read more
Groundbreaking Rosé From a Bordelais in Provence
Sacha Lichine’s upbringing in Bordeaux explains to me why his rosés from Provence are so stunning. Of course, it helps that Lichine’s consulting enologist, Patrick Léon, was, for almost 20 years, the Managing Director in charge of the vineyards and winemaking for all of Baron Philippe de Rothschild’s properties, including Château Mouton Rothschild.… Read more
An Unknown Tuscan Treasure
Move over Brunello, Chianti Classico and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. There’s a new kid on the Tuscan block, Montecucco, which is positioned to join this elite trio of regal red wines. With only 2,000-planted acres and about 70 small producers, Montecucco is tiny. … Read more
Gran Selezione: The True Pinnacle of Chianti Classico or Hype?
With the 2010 vintage of Chianti Classico, consumers will see a new class of wine identified by the words “Gran Selezione” on the label. Whether this new category represents progress depends on whom you ask.… Read more
Why Wine Prices Are Rising
I’m no economist, but the idea of supply and demand is a fundamental economic principle that even we non-economists can understand. As far as fine wine is concerned, the demand is rising rapidly and the supply is not. My recent trip to Hong Kong and Vietnam demonstrated just how much demand is rising.… Read more
Are Barrel Tastings Worthwhile?
Every spring, as predictably as the blooming of daffodils, journalists and merchants attend the en primeur tastings in Bordeaux and bombard us with reams of tasting notes. These tastings, organized by the Bordeaux producers, show the new vintage, while it is still aging in barrel. … Read more
Apstein’s Winery of the Year 2013: Mastroberardino
Mastroberardino is my Winery of the Year for 2013 because it excels, not only by consistently making a fine range of wine, but also by preserving history. … Read more
Burgundy Bargains from 2011 Vintage
The 2011 vintage in Burgundy runs the risk of being forgotten despite producing very fine wines. The first strike against it is that it was sandwiched between two stellar vintages, 2010 and 2012. … Read more
Lambrusco: A Wine for Thanksgiving
Just the idea of taking Lambrusco seriously causes snickers. We all know that it’s nothing more than a sweet slightly bubbly red wine, right? Well, no–it isn’t just a cheap sweet bubbly after all. Or at least not all Lambrusco fits that description. … Read more
Franciacorta: A Stylish Sparkler from Italy
Most wine geeks are not familiar with Franciacorta, so it’s understandable that this terrific Italian bubbly is not on the radar screens of most casual consumers. … Read more
The Stunning and Affordable 2010 Bordeaux
Affordable Bordeaux is not an oxymoron. The truth is that, aside from the 60 or so top chateaux, wines from Bordeaux offer tremendous value. … Read more
The Left Bank Bordeaux Cup: The College Bowl of Wine
Hollywood could not have orchestrated the prelude to the Left Bank Bordeaux Cup any better. On a breezy summer evening under a brilliantly blue sky, the judges, guests and contestants assembled on the beautifully manicured lawns outside the cellars of Château Lafite Rothschild, snapping pictures and chatting nervously. … Read more
The Illusion of Knowledge
Everyone buying and selling wine–wineries, wholesalers, retailers and consumers–does it. We wine writers also fall into the trap. We carefully note the blend of grapes in a particular wine and what oak treatment the winemaker has chosen, as though that gives us valuable information about the wine. … Read more
Port: It’s Not Just for Winter any More
Many years ago, Carmine Martignetti, a friend of mine and head of Carolina Wines, one of New England’s best distributors, remarked to me after a chilly night that marked the beginning of Fall, that the “Port season had arrived.” He of course was referring to the cold months when Port, the uniquely sweet and warming wine made exclusively in Portugal’s Douro Valley, was consumed.… Read more
Chianti Classico’s Gran Selezione: Grand Idea or Grand Mistake?
Chianti Classico producers have been hitting home runs with recent vintages. But they are on the verge of striking out with their new category, Gran Selezione, debuting with the 2010 vintage.… Read more
Vintage Matters…and So Does Ownership
Bruno Eynard, the man in charge at Château Lagrange, the St. Julien estate in Bordeaux classified as a 3rd growth in the Médoc Classification of 1855, was in New York recently to celebrate the 30th anniversary of Suntory’s ownership. To demonstrate the dramatic turnaround at the estate since Suntory, the Japanese drinks company, acquired it, Eynard led a tasting of 19 vintages of Château Lagrange extending from 1959 to
2010 (plus 5 vintages of Les Fiefs de Lagrange, their second wine, dating from 1990 to 2009).… Read more
Feat of the Feet
Treading the grapes by foot “is fundamental for making Vintage Port,” insists Natasha Bridge, the chief blender at The Fladgate Partnership, the family run company that owns Taylor Fladgate, Fonseca and Croft, three of Port’s best houses. “It may only account for a 3 to 4% difference in quality, but it’s one of the differences between making good and great Port.”… Read more
The Languedoc is Worth Exploring
The Languedoc is undergoing a tremendous transformation. Formerly known as France’s ”wine lake,” this vast area in Southern France that extends in an arc from the Rhône River towards the Spanish border is evolving into one of France’s most exciting wine regions. … Read more
A Tale of Two Vintages
Is it hype or is it true? Do 2009 and 2010 represent back-to-back great vintages for Burgundy or is it just another case of the French crying wolf with yet more “vintages of the century?” My vote goes to truth rather than hype, although the two vintages couldn’t be more different.… Read more
2009 Bordeaux: Voluptuous Wines
They’re here! The much-praised 2009 Bordeaux, the region’s priciest vintage, has arrived. Representatives from the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGC) were in New York this past week as part of their nationwide tour to give the trade the first comprehensive look at this much-heralded vintage. … Read more
The Scientific Low-Down on High Alcohol Wines
“Officer, the Breathalyzer must be wrong. I only drank two glasses of Chardonnay,” the young woman complained. “How is that possible?” Well, it is possible.… Read more
The Paradoxes of Champagne
Champagne must not have gotten the memo about the French appellation controllée (AOC) laws. They have their own regulations–after all, Champagne is an AOC–but they seem to have originated in Rome or Athens, not Paris.
Regional Blends Predominate
Elsewhere in France, the most prized and expensive wines come from individual and distinct vineyards. … Read more
Sardinia: Italy’s Other Island
“People can’t find Sardinia on a map,” complained Valentina Argiolas, a member of the family that owns Sardinia’s leading winery. She was speaking literally in describing the fundamental hurdle producers need to overcome to sell their wines. At a recent tasting and seminar of Sardinian wines in San Francisco and again in Japan, she was mortified when the map the organizers projected onto the screen failed to show Italy’s second largest island. … Read more
Our Burgeoning Wine Culture
Despite the economic turmoil, wine consumption in the United States continues to increase. Up only a mere one percent in 2010, according to the Wine Market Council, but that was enough to make us the world’s largest wine market, surpassing France. … Read more
A Simple Strategy for Buying Burgundy
Burgundy produces some of the world’s most exciting wines. Although many, such as those from Domaine Romanée Conti, Domaine Leroy, or Domaine Rousseau are priced in the stratosphere, affordable well-priced Burgundies do exist. But finding them can be like walking through a minefield.… Read more
Beaujolais Renaissance
Location, Location, Location: Port’s No Different
In all the great wine producing areas of the world it is an article of faith that where the grapes grow determines the style and quality of the wine. However, when we think of Port, we tend to forget this fundamental notion.… Read more
China and Wine: We’ve Not Seen Anything Yet
By now most wine lovers have heard that the Chinese are having an enormous impact on the world’s wine market. But the current wave of wine buying frenzy by the Chinese may seem tame compared to the potential tsunami coming in the future.… Read more
Under the Radar: Long Island Merlot
Some wine areas are vaguely familiar but not well known or fashionable. Parts of Southern Italy, such as Puglia, fit this category, as do parts of Spain, such as Manchuela. But there are other areas, such as Long Island, that fly almost completely under the proverbial radar, showing up on the “screen” of very few consumers.… Read more
The Alchemy of Wine: A Reason to Cellar
In years past, when marginal weather often failed to ripen grapes adequately, winemakers rejoiced in the relatively rare years when Nature provided ripe fruit flavors. These days, with delayed harvesting, modern winemaking and global warming, it’s easy to get fruit in a wine. … Read more
Not Just Any Port in a Storm
“An overpowering wine,” was how Adrian Bridge, CEO of Taylor Fladgate, described their just released pre-phylloxera Tawny Port, which he dated to about 1855. Labeled Scion, it was overpowering, but not so much in taste–it was rich but vibrant–as much as its origin and its price, about $3,200 a bottle.… Read more
Renaissance in South Africa
“We had to leapfrog the sanctions,” explained Simon Barlow, the affable owner of Rustenberg Wines in Stellenbosch, South Africa, as he described the dramatic transformation of his family’s estate following the democratic elections in South Africa in 1994 that marked the official end of apartheid. … Read more
Malbec: Another Merlot?
Malbec is the new “black.” Then again, maybe not so new, since the wine from Cahors in south central France, the traditional home to Malbec, was known as the “black wine” in the 13th century because of its power and concentration. … Read more
Gifts for the Wine Lover
Friends and professional colleagues always tell me they shy away from giving me wine. They profess not to know what to give. They say that they don’t want to embarrass themselves with an “ordinary” bottle. Those excuses, and all the others, are silly. … Read more
2009 Burgundies: A First Look
The Bordelais are not the only ones licking their chops as they offer the 2009 vintage for sale. Burgundians too are smiling as they taste their 2009s currently aging in barrels. In the words of Philippe Prost, the technical director at Bouchard Père et Fils, the wines are, “La beauté du Diable,” a French idiom that roughly means “too good to be true.”… Read more
Burgundy: Sorting Out the ‘0 Tens’
“Let’s taste some 0 tens,” was Louis-Fabrice Latour’s invitation as I met him in late September at the imposing Chateau Grancey, the heart of the Domaine Latour estate in the picturesque Burgundian village of Aloxe-Corton where they vinify all the reds from their Domaine. … Read more
In Defense of the Burgundy Négociant
I am always surprised how many experienced Burgundy aficionados, be they sommeliers or just plain passionate consumers, overlook or denigrate Burgundy’s négociants while heaping praise on the growers’ wines. Sommeliers may shun them because of commercial reasons. Négociants’ wines are more widely available and many sommeliers prefer to list wines from small growers whose wines are difficult for diners to find in retail stores. … Read more
Rose Love In Bloom
I’ve been converted. Sort of.
Despite the tsunami of enthusiasm that appears every summer, I’ve never been a fan of rosés, except, of course, for rosé Champagne. The argument for rosé is that they are perfect for summertime because they are not too serious, they stand up to and go with hearty cold salads or grilled fish, and they cut through summer’s heat and humidity.… Read more
Riesling: America’s Favorite Wine Grape?
It’s not of course. Chardonnay still holds that position. But to listen to wine professionals, it should be. … Read more