Bodega Catena Zapata, Uco Valley (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec La Consulta 2015

($25, The Winebow Group):  The Malbec from La Consulta could redefine the image of wine made from that grape.  Not just big and ripe, this Malbec is lively and racy with appealing smoky nuances.  Though it displays Malbec’s smooth tannins, it is far fresher compared to Lunlunta.  Not ponderous, it handles its power well.  The La Consulta vineyard is higher — 3,600 feet — compared to Lulunta’s 2,800 feet, but the yield from the two vineyards is vastly different, so it’s hard to know precisely why the wines differ so much.  But what is clear and fascinating is that this pair demonstrate Malbec’s spectrum and that where you grow the grapes does matter.
92 Michael Apstein May 8, 2018