Category Archives: France – Burgundy

Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy) “Couvent des Thorins” 2012

($28, Wilson Daniels): Ever since the Parinet family purchased this iconic property in 2009, they have been making marvelous wine.  They focus solely on wine from Moulin-à-Vent, one of the top crus of Beaujolais.  Moulin-à-Vent is home to well-structured rich wines that often need years of bottle age — these wines are as far away from insipidly fruity Beaujolais-Nouveau as you can get. Read more

Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy) Clos des Londres 2009

($100, Wilson Daniels): Yes, you read the price correctly — $100 for a bottle of Beaujolais.  But to associate this wine with conventional image of Beaujolais — a fruity easy-to-drink wine — would be a terrible mistake.  The wines from Moulin-à-Vent, though a village in the Beaujolais region, rightly stand apart from that region and carry their own appellation. Read more

René Bouvier, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) “Le Clos” 2010

($30, Sherbrooke Cellars Selection): Marsannay, the northern most appellation of the Côte d’Or and practically a suburb of Dijon, is one of the last outposts of the “golden slope” where the consumer can find authentic Burgundy at reasonable prices.  Most Marsannay is red, but 15 percent of the vineyards are planted to Chardonnay, making it one of the rare white wines from the Côtes de Nuits. Read more

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Preuses 2012

($65, Louis Latour USA): Simonnet-Febvre is one of the top producers in Chablis.  They eschew oak aging preferring to focus on the bracing minerality unique to the Chablis region, which gives their wines a lean, racy edginess.  The 2012 vintage was especially well suited to their style because it delivered fully ripe grapes with slightly lower apparent acidity, which meant that some producers’ wines lacked the usual verve of Chablis. … Read more

Jean Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012

($26): Jean Marc Brocard, always one of my favorite Chablis producers, made a stunning array of wines in 2012.  This one, from old vines, whose average age is 68 years, is one of the best village Chablis I’ve ever had.  With wonderful intensity–but no heaviness–and balance, it has penetration, energy and extraordinary length, especially for a village wine. … Read more

Jean Paul Brun, Beaujolais (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012

($18, Louis Dressner Selections): Brun’s Beaujolais, bottled under the Terres Dorées label, redefine that appellation.  The vast majority of Beaujolais — I’m not speaking of Beaujolais-Village and certainly not the cru — are nothing more than alcoholic grape juice.  But Brun’s is real wine filled with satisfying mix of fruitiness and herbal/spicy elements. … Read more

Maison Alex Gambal, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2012

($45, Schneider’s of Capitol Hill): Chorey-lès-Beaune, like Savigny-lès-Beaune, is another good source of reasonably — for Burgundy — priced wines.  The wines from Chorey tend to be a touch more robust than those from Savigny.  Gambal’s Chorey-lès-Beaune conveys more black fruit than red and has an engaging immediate impact, without sacrificing any of what has become the purity and elegance that marks Geraldine Godot’s winemaking. … Read more

Maison Louis Latour, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “La Chanfleure” 2011

($22, Louis Latour USA): Chablis remains one of the best bargains for white Burgundy and this one from Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s best producers, should be snapped up.  This village Chablis — Chanfleure is the name of the pipette used to extract wine from a barrel for tasting — is clean and crisp with underlying invigorating minerality and a zesty lemony finish. … Read more

Domaine Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) La Chapelle 2011

($33, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Lafouge is a star producer in Auxey-Duresses, an off the beat track village that is becoming better known as a place to find high quality reasonably priced Burgundy.  Good concentration, charming cherry-like note and a balancing savory finish makes this is an easy wine to recommend for current consumption with a roast chicken.… Read more

Domaine Jobard, Rully (Burgundy, France) “Montagne la Folie” 2011

($27, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Domaine Jobard is a small domaine worth watching because fine winemaking runs in the family.  Laurence Jobard, mother of Claudie, the current winemaker, was the winemaker at Maison Joseph Drouhin for 30 years.  The stature of this Rully, a village wine, comes from the old vines — their average age is 40-45 years. … Read more

Domaine François Lamarche, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2011

($30, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Considering that they are the sole owners of the Grand Cru vineyard, La Grande Rue (one of the most expensive pieces of real estate in all of Burgundy since it’s bordered by La Tache, La Romanée, La Romanée-Conti, and Romanée Saint-Vivant), Domaine François Lamarche is one of the most under-rated Burgundy producers. … Read more

Domaine Lamarche, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) 2011

($32, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): The Hautes-Côtes is less well-situated land to the west and above the major villages of the Côte d’Or.  Wines from talented producers, such as Domaine Lamarche, represent value-packed Burgundy.  Lamarche’s nicely concentrated 2011 is quite fragrant and surprisingly elegant and glossy for a wine from this appellation.… Read more

Joseph Drouhin, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) 2012

($15, Dreyfus Ashby): The low yielding 2012 vintage produced concentrated white Burgundies, which are just starting to appear on our shores.  The best producers, such as Drouhin, managed to combine that concentration with uplifting acidity.  The meager harvest, which concentrated the flavors, gave an extra boost to places like Mâcon where wines can often be dilute. … Read more

Jean Claude Boisset, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Perrières 2011

($100, Boisset USA): Les Perrières means stony, which is an accurate description for the firm, classically structured white Burgundy.  The stony minerality acts as a lovely foil for its green apple-like ripeness.  The contrast with Boisset St. Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly shows the magic of Burgundy–same grape, same vintage, same winemaking team, yet two very different expressions of Chardonnay. … Read more

Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Blanc (France) Chardonnay “Steel” 2012

($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s best producers, has fashioned this Bourgogne Blanc for the US by highlighting Chardonnay on the front label relegating the appellation to the back.  The gray label and proprietary name, Steel, remind us this crisp white was fermented and aged in stainless steel to allow the subtle minerality and green apple-like fruitiness to shine. … Read more