Category Archives: France – Burgundy

Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Blanc (France) Chardonnay “Steel” 2012

($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s best producers, has fashioned this Bourgogne Blanc for the US by highlighting Chardonnay on the front label relegating the appellation to the back.  The gray label and proprietary name, Steel, remind us this crisp white was fermented and aged in stainless steel to allow the subtle minerality and green apple-like fruitiness to shine. … Read more

Maison Louis Latour, Bourgogne Gamay (France) 2011

($16, Louis Latour USA): Bourgogne Gamey is a newly created appellation for Burgundy with the 2011 vintage that allows producers to blend Gamay grown in the crus, or named villages, of Beaujolais with Pinot Noir.  It differs and is a step above the longstanding and locally popular appellation Bourgogne Passetoutgrains because the Gamay for Passetoutgrains can come from anywhere within Beaujolais.… Read more

Château des Labourons, Fleurie (Burgundy, France) 2011

($18, Louis Latour USA): Fleurie, one of the ten named villages or crus of Beaujolais, is allowed to put its name on the label, with or without reference to Beaujolais.  The Château des Labourons has opted to omit Beaujolais from the label because, as Bernard Retornaz, the President of Louis Latour Inc in charge of North American Market, said, “This is real wine, not some grapey swill that’s become associated with Beaujolais.” … Read more

Giraudon, Bourgogne Chitry (Burgundy, France) “Cépage Pinot Noir” 2010

($20, Wine Traditions Ltd.): Most wines from this little known appellation between Chablis and Auxerre, are simply labeled Bourgogne Rouge because virtually no one has heard of Chitry. Giraudon reminds us–with the moniker Cépage Pinot Noir–that this wine is made entirely from Pinot Noir because regulations allow a small amount of César, an obscure grape, in the blend.… Read more

Alex Gambal, Grand Cru Clos Vougeot (Burgundy, France) 2009

($175, Schneiders of Capital Hill): The 2009 vintage produced excellent red Burgundies. This is one of them. Though quite ripe, reflective of the warmth of the vintage, it has not lost its focus or identity. This Clos Vougeot captures the minerality and floral aspect of that Grand Cru vineyard and has plenty of structure beneath the ripeness and to assure a long life.… Read more

Château de la Maltroye, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos du Château de la Maltroye 2010

($75, Jeanne Marie de Champs): This vineyard surrounds the Château de la Maltroye and is owned solely by them, somewhat of a rarity in Burgundy since most vineyards have been divided and subdivided among multiple owners over the centuries. Full disclosure: I’m not a fan of red wine from Chassagne-Montrachet because they can be green and rustic.… Read more

Maison J. J. Vincent, Beaujolais Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009

($12, Frederick Wildman & Sons):  J. J. Vincent is best known for their consistently excellent Pouilly Fuissé from their domaine, the Chateau de Fuissé.  This Beaujolais-Villages, however, comes from the négociant side of their company, from vines located within the village of Juliénas, but not within that cru’s appellation.  … Read more

Maison Ambroise, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Rognet 2009

($121, Robert Kacher Selection):  Maison Ambroise is a name you can trust in Burgundy.  Their wines, from the lowliest appellation to the prestigious Grand Cru, such as this one, reflect the vintage and place beautifully.  This gorgeous Corton Rognet is well structured with a solid core of dark minerality and luxurious, almost sweet, red and black fruit flavors. … Read more

Domaines Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “Couvent des Jacobins” 2009

($22, Kobrand):  This Bourgogne Rouge is a real treat from Jadot
because the grapes come entirely from the domains they control: Domaine Louis Jadot, Domaine Héritiers Louis Jadot, and Domaine Gagey, which explains the labeling.  No purchased grapes or wine go into this bottling, which distinguishes it from Jadot’s other Bourgogne Rouge. … Read more

Mongeard-Mugneret, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2010

($24, Vineyard Brands):  Mongeard-Mugneret, a small grower located in Vosne-Romanée, makes traditionally proportioned graceful Burgundies.  They emphasize elegance and persistence rather than shear power.  And those characteristics are evident in this Bourgogne Rouge.  It’s a fine introduction to true Burgundy, showing the savory and earthy side of Pinot Noir.… Read more

Alain Burguet, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) “Mes Favorites” Vieilles Vignes 2009

($100, Frederick Wildman):  Here’s an example of how the French appellation system breaks down.  This village wine delivers more elegance and complexity than many producers’ wines from premier cru vineyards.  For this wine, Burguet combines grapes from old vines located in various parcels that lie on the slope between the village and the road. … Read more

Potel-Aviron, Beaujolais Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009

($16, Frederick Wildman):  Stéphane Aviron describes his 2009 Beaujolais as “sunny wines” because of the warmth of the vintage.  Anyone who thinks that all Beaujolais is just tutti-fruity and jammy should try his wines.  Spiced with a touch of minerality, this 2009 Beaujolais Villages harbors not a hint of overt grapey flavors. … Read more

Domaine Dominique Gallois, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Petits Cazetiers 2009

($90, Frederick Wildman):  Les Petits Cazetiers is adjacent to Les Cazetiers, its famous neighbor that many producers believe is the village’s best premier cru vineyard.  But there’s nothing small about this wine.  It’s quintessential Burgundy delivering flavor without heaviness.  Leathery and earthy notes peek out from a rich, but not overbearing, assortment of red and black fruit flavors. … Read more

Domaine du Château de Chorey, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2009

($25, Becky Wasserman Selection):  A vintage like 2009, bathed in perfect weather during the entire growing season and through harvest, was especially beneficial to the lesser appellations that in poorer years suffer from under-ripe grapes that translate into thin wines.  That’s why in 2009 a low prestige category, such as Bourgogne Rouge, from a conscientious producer, like Château du Chorey, is a bargain-priced over-achiever delivering far more than you’d expect. … Read more

Beaujolais Renaissance

Six centuries after Philippe the Bold exiled the “vile and noxious” Gamay grape from Burgundy in favor of the “elegant” Pinot Noir, Burgundians are once again embracing the grape in the wines of Beaujolais. The region has long been known primarily for Beaujolais Nouveau, a beverage closer to alcoholic grape juice than wine, but is now undergoing a dramatic change as Beaune-based négociants buy vineyards and identify unique parcels for separate bottlings.
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Domaine Louis Latour, Grand Cru Corton Clos du Roi (Burgundy, France) 2009

($83, Louis Latour USA):  This is a great wine.  But that’s what you’d expect from a fabulous vintage, a superb locale (you think the king gets the second best plot in Corton?) and a conscientious and talented producer.  Although Latour is one of the region’s most prominent négociants, this wine comes exclusively from estate-owned plots they purchased over 100 years ago. … Read more

Bouchard Père et Fils, Beaune-Grèves (Burgundy, France) “Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus” 2007

($97, Henriot, Inc.):  This is Bouchard’s flagship wine from the heart of the famed Beaune-Grèves vineyard.  At trade tastings, they even offer it after the conventionally more highly regarded wines from the Corton appellation.  Lighter and more forward than usual–reflective of the 2007 vintage–the mixture of bright red fruit and a stoniness still dances across the palate.  … Read more