($24, Louis Latour USA):
Though the 2014 vintage for whites looks outstanding at this stage, consumers should not overlook 2013 whites, such as this one. Latour, one of Burgundy’s top producers, consistently makes a stylish and reasonably priced Pouilly-Fuissé. With a creamy lushness and firm stony underpinning, the 2013 fits that mold beautifully. … Read more
Category Archives: France – Burgundy
All Smiles in Burgundy
There were smiles all around Burgundy–at least before the horrific events in Paris on Friday, November 13. And with good reason: The 2014 whites are stunning. And overall, yields in 2014 were closer to normal–70 to 80 percent–after four short harvests, though, as Frédéric Barnier, winemaker at Maison Louis Jadot, noted, “We are still looking for a full [normal] crop.” … Read more
Château de Lavernette, Beaujolais Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Les Vignes de la Roche” 2013
($20, T. Edward Wines): Yes, you read that correctly — white Beaujolais. Though 95 percent of Beaujolais is red, a small amount of white wine made from Chardonnay is produced in the appellation. And it shouldn’t be surprising since Beaujolais borders the appellation of Pouilly-Fuissé, a well-known white Burgundy.… Read more
Domaine François Lamarche, Grand Cru La Grande Rue (Burgundy, France) 2011
($387, Jeanne Marie de Champs Selection):
La Grande Rue, squeezed between La Tache on one side and La Romanée, Romanée Conti and Romanée St Vivant on the other, is the least renown (and hence, the least expensive) of the famed Grand Cru of Vosne-Romanée. … Read more
Domaine Dominique Gallois, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) 2012
($92, Jeanne Marie de Champs Selection):
The wine comes from two separate premier cru vineyards, which are close to each other, but are distinct. Yields were so low in 2012–which helps to explain the high prices for that excellent vintage–that Gallois had to combine juice from the two vineyards to make a manageable quantity of wine.… Read more
Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Aux Malconsorts 2013
($475, Becky Wasserman Selection): The wines from Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, now run by Sylvain’s son, Sébastien, have become some of the most sought after in all of Burgundy. The Premier Cru vineyard Aux Malconsorts is adjacent to and just south of the Grand Cru La Tache, which, in combination of the renown of the producer, explains the extraordinary price for a premier cru. … Read more
Domaine Parent, Pommard Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Argillières 2012
($130, Jeanne Marie de Champs Selection): As the name of the vineyard suggests, there’s lots of clay in the soil, which explains the weight and density of the wine. And given its ferrous nuances, there’s likely to be iron in the soil as well. … Read more
Domaine Parent, Pommard Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Chanlis 2012
($130, Jeanne Marie de Champs Selection): Domaine Parent, currently run by Anne and her sister Catherine Parent, is one of the finest domaines in Pommard. Indeed, this Premier Cru and another one from the domaine, Les Argillières, are a lesson in the wines of Pommard, showing the diversity of the wines from that village. … Read more
Domaine Humbert Frères, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Petite Chapelle 2011
($100, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.):
The “frères” running this Gevrey-Chambertin-based domaine are brothers Frédéric and Emmanuel Humbert. Though not as revered as the 2010 vintage, 2011 nonetheless produced some stunning wines. Humbert Frères’ Petite Chapelle is one of them. The Petite Chapelle vineyard is an enclave of premier cru land surrounded on three sides by vineyards carrying the less prestigious village appellation and on the fourth side by the Grand Cru, Chapelle-Chambertin. … Read more
Domaine Lignier-Michelot, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2013
($29, Becky Wasserman Selection): There is an advantage to buying “grower” wines (as opposed to those made by a négociant) with a regional appellation, such as Bourgogne Rouge, which theoretically could come from anywhere within Burgundy. The consumer knows the approximate locale because most growers’ vineyards are located near their winery. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2013
($22, Dreyfus, Ashby & Company): St. Véran, a kissing cousin of Pouilly-Fuissé, proves that the Mâconnais is a place for well-priced Chardonnay-based white wines. Drouhin’s 2013 is more overt than their Rully, showing more fruit and fewer stony elements. Its bright lemony zing makes it a good choice for everyday consumption.… Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2013
($25, Dreyfus, Ashby & Company): Consumers who complain about the high price of Burgundy (count me in, by the way) need to run out and buy this wine. Rully, one of the five appellations within the Côte Chalonnaise, is home to some terrific white wines, made, as in the case with all white Burgundy, from Chardonnay. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2013
($83, Dreyfus, Ashby & Company):
Without doubt, Vaudésir is one of the two top Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis. (The other is Les Clos.) In the hands of a talented producer, such as Drouhin who owns a portion of the vineyard, the wine from Vaudésir delivers a near-magical combination of weight and flinty elegance. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2013
($24, Dreyfus, Ashby & Company): In addition to Drouhin’s extensive holdings in Chablis, it buys grapes and must (newly fermenting juice) from growers with whom it has long-standing relationships. This village Chablis is a blend of Drouhin’s grapes with those of other growers. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Réserve de Vaudon” 2013
($32, Dreyfus, Ashby & Company): Though based in Beaune and known best as a top Burgundy négociant, Maison Joseph Drouhin consistently produces excellent Chablis from its extensive holdings there. Its Chablis, “Réserve de Vaudon,” comes from the Vallée de Vauvillien, which is located between Mont de Milieu and Montée de Tonnerre, two of the best Premier Cru vineyards in Chablis. … Read more
Louis Jadot, Chambolle-Musigny (Burgundy, France) 2012
($69, Kobrand): Wines from Chambolle-Musigny, one of the top villages in the Côte de Nuits, are some of the most sought after in Burgundy, which explains why even a village wine, such as this one, commands a healthy price. Jadot’s 2012 is a great example and demonstrates why wines from that village are so popular. … Read more
Louis Jadot, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Toussaints 2012
($45, Kobrand): Wines from premier cru vineyards in from Beaune, especially from top producers, such as Louis Jadot, while not cheap, remain a relative bargain for Burgundy. This Toussaints, from one of their domaines (Domaine Gagey), delivers more weight and power than you’d expect from Beaune and reflects the character of the 2012 vintage.… Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Meursault (Burgundy, France) 2012
($51, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): In a word — gorgeous. Though the first whiff hints at grandeur, it takes time in the glass for the charm of this Meursault to reveal itself. But it does — creamy with a captivating fullness. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Mâcon Villages (Burgundy, France) 2014
($14, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Jadot’s 2014 Mâcon Villages offers a fabulous comparison to their very good one from 2012. While still displaying an engaging creaminess, it’s slightly less rich than the 2012, but has more energy and vivacity. Those whose tastes run to more voluptuous wines — though still not in the New World ripeness category — will enjoy the 2012. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Mâcon Villages (Burgundy, France) 2012
($14, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Chardonnay is prominently displayed on the label to remind consumers that Mâcon Villages, like all white Burgundy, is made from that grape. Jadot has done an admirable job with this one because it transmits the richness of the 2012 vintage while maintaining good acidity, which gives the wine a pleasant kick. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Clos Vougeot (Burgundy, France) “Domaine Louis Jadot” 2012
($159, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): At first impression, this wine announces its Grand Cru origin. And it keeps sending this signal as you continue to taste it. Part of its grandeur, no doubt, comes from its being an estate wine. (Domaine Louis Jadot in the box at the base of the label means that the grapes come from their portion of the Clos Vougeot vineyard.)… Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Rouge (France) “Le Chapitre” 2012
($31, Kobrand Wine And Spirits):
This Bourgogne Rouge delivers far more than you’d expect from that simple appellation and shows that the producer often trumps terroir. A look at the label explains why. First, Maison Louis Jadot is one of Burgundy’s top producers. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2010
($120, Louis Latour USA):
No one produces a better Corton Charlemagne consistently than Maison Louis Latour. Latour, the largest owner of Corton Charlemagne, has ideally located plots on the hill of Corton. The sheer extensiveness of their holdings means that even in “difficult” years Latour’s Corton Charlemagne is top-notch because they limit production by selecting only the very best grapes. … Read more
Louis Latour, Pouilly-Vinzelles (Burgundy, France) “En Paradis” 2012
($22):
The attention wines from small growers receive from the press, sommeliers and retailers can make us overlook wines from even the best négociants. That’s always a mistake and this wine is just another case in point. Maison Louis Latour, a top-notch Beaune-based négociant, owns no land in Pouilly-Vinzelles, an appellation neighboring Pouilly-Fuissé. … Read more
Louis Latour, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2012
($28, Louis Latour USA):
Let’s face it: Buying Pouilly-Fuissé is, figuratively speaking, akin to walking through a minefield. Wines from this appellation, the best from the Mâconnais region of Burgundy, range from insipid to stellar. This 2012, from one of Burgundy’s top négociants, is easy to recommend. … Read more
Chinon: Burgundy in the Loire Valley
Chinon as Burgundy? At first glance, it is an unlikely comparison. Chinon growers use Cabernet Franc almost exclusively for their reds, while Burgundians use Pinot Noir. And Cabernet Franc is no winemaker’s Holy Grail, unlike Pinot Noir. Few consumers are passionate about Cabernet Franc, nor do they search for it the way they clamor for Pinot Noir.… Read more
Domaine Dominique Guyon, Hautes Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) Les Dames de Vergy 2012
($35, Esprit du Vin):
Though the Hautes Côtes de Nuits, the higher, less well-situated land just west of the Côte d’Or, is a rather down-market appellation, it can be the place to fine authentic Burgundy, especially from a dedicated producer such as Domaine Dominique Guyon. … Read more
Domaine Antonin Guyon, Savigny-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) Les Goudelettes 2011
($37, L’Esprit du Vin): The wines from Savigny-lès-Beaune, a village just north of Beaune (lès means near), lacking the prestige of its more famous neighbor, can offer good value when they are made by top producers, such as Domaine Antonin Guyon. … Read more
Domaine Antonin Guyon, Corton (Burgundy, France) Clos du Roy 2011
($112, L’Esprit du Vin): Dominique Guyon, who runs the family estate founded by his grandfather, uses the traditional 18th century spelling, Clos du Roy, instead of the more common Clos du Roi. Regardless of the spelling, royalty is in the bottle. … Read more
Domaine Bertagna, Chambolle Musigny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Plantes 2009
($95, L’Esprit du Vin):
The most amazing thing about this wine is its availability. Most red Burgundies from 2009 (a stellar year in my view) have long since disappeared from the retail market. I have said it before, and it’s worth repeating since I’ve tasted scores more since their release, you can’t have too many 2009 red Burgundies in your cellar. … Read more
Bargains Abound in Burgundy, Part II
With demand for Burgundy pushing prices relentlessly upward, savvy consumers should look to lesser-known appellation to find affordable wines. … Read more
Bargains Abound in Burgundy–If You Know Where to Look
With prices for top Burgundy wines in triple and sometimes quadruple digits, you could be forgiven for concluding that Burgundy is expensive. Well, most of it is. And, as I will explain below, there’s no reason to believe that prices will come down. … Read more
Xavier Monnot, Meursault 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Charmes 2012
($120, Robert Katcher Selections):
Combine the richness inherent to the wines from Les Charmes vineyard and the warm 2012 growing season and you get, not surprisingly, an opulent wine. The surprise is its vivacity and brightness, which Monnot attributes to the 50+ year-old vines. … Read more
Xavier Monnot, Volnay 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Chenes 2012
($85, Robert Katcher Selections): One whiff of this wine explains the reputation of Volnay and why the wines from this village are in such great demand. Most experts consider Clos des Chenes one of the best premier cru vineyards in this village that lacks any grand crus. … Read more
Xavier Monnot, Maranges 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos de la Fussière 2012
($45, Robert Katcher Selections): Though wine has been made in Maranges for centuries, the appellation is relatively new for Burgundy, having been established only in 1988. Prior to that date, the wines were sold under the broad Côte de Beaune Villages umbrella. … Read more
Caves de Lugny, Mâcon-Villages (Burgundy, Franc) “La Côte Blanche” 2013
($12, Pasternak Wine Imports): Caves de Lugny, the largest cooperative in Burgundy, controls about one-third of the entire production of the Mâconnais region. I, unlike many, do not subscribe to the notion that large producers are incapable of making high quality wine. … Read more
Henri Prudhon, St. Aubin (Burgundy, France) Les Argillers 2010
($30, Rosenthal Wine Merchant): St. Aubin, an off the main road village in Burgundy, is known mostly for whites, which, because of recent popularity, has already resulted in considerable prices increase for those Chardonnay-based wines. The reds, made exclusively from Pinot Noir, such as this one, remain relatively undiscovered–and therefore, reasonably priced. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Chorey-les-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2012
($28, Dreyfus Ashby & Co.): Chorey-les-Beaune, a small village just north of Beaune, is a sleeper location for value packed red Burgundy, such as this one. Lying just off the main Dijon Beaune road, Chorey, as it’s sometimes called, is off most everybody’s radar screen. … Read more
Simonnet Febrve, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Clos 2012
($80, Louis Latour USA): Chablis was more successful than the Côte d’Or for white wines in 2012. Indeed, the 2012 vintage produced excellent Chablis. The Simonnet Febrve style of tightly wound, mineraly-infused, bracing wines is ideally suited to this vintage, which produced ripe grapes.… Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Laforêt” 2012
($14, Dreyfus Ashby & Co.):
The firm of Joseph Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s best, is still family owned and operated. Though they own vineyards extensively throughout the region, they also have a talent for buying grapes and wines from other growers, blending them as needed, and bottling them under the Drouhin name. … Read more
René Bouvier, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Les Longeroies Vieilles Vignes 2012
($31, Kermit Lynch): Marsannay, sitting at the northern most boundary of the Côte d’Or, is another great appellation for authentic, well-priced Burgundy. Since Marsannay is not a prestigious appellation, many of its red wines are ready to drink soon after release. … Read more
Domaine Charles Audoin, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Les Longeroies 2011
($36, Martine’s Wines): Marsannay received appellation status only in 1987. Prior to that date, the wines were sold under the broader Bourgogne appellation. Growers in Marsannay have submitted an application to the French authorities to classify some vineyards as Premier Cru. … Read more
Domaine Bertagna, Hautes Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) “Les Dames Huguettes” 2012
($29): One way to find well-priced Burgundy (no, that’s not an oxymoron) is to choose a down-market appellation from a top-notch producer, such as Domaine Bertagna. Although Les Dames Huguettes lies in the appellation of Hautes Côtes de Nuits, just west (up and behind) the escarpment of the Côte d’Or, the vineyard itself still lies within the boundaries of the village of Nuits St Georges. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Montagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) “La Grande Roche” 2012
($25, Louis Latour USA): Montagny is an often-overlooked village in the Côte Chalonnaise that is home to some excellent white Burgundies, such as this one. Latour has combined the ripeness of the vintage with a steely backbone that keeps it fresh and lively throughout a meal. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2013
($16, Kobrand Wine And Spirits):
It’s no surprise that Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top producers, makes a fine “simple” Bourgogne Blanc. A blend of Chardonnay grown in the Côte d’Or, the Côte Chalonnaise and the Macon, it’s not so simple and is a great value.… Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) 2012
($24, Louis Latour USA):
Marsannay, now practically a suburb of Dijon, is the northern most outpost of the Côte de Nuits. With no classified vineyards — but deserving of some — the village offers the best value for red wines from the entire Côte d’Or, in my opinion. … Read more
Domaine Marc Morey, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2012
($25, Robert Katcher Selections):
This wine caught my attention at Island Creek Oyster Bar (an excellent Boston restaurant with an eclectic wine list) because I was unaware that Marc Morey, a top producer based in Chassagne-Montrachet, owned vineyards in Rully (a lesser known village in the Côte Chalonnaise). … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Truffières 2012
($95, Louis Latour USA): Despite the concentration of Latour’s whites in 2012, the wines still reflect their origins. This wine has a particularly stony edginess that screams Puligny-Montrachet and distinguishes it from the slightly creamier Meursault. Like Latour’s Meursault Premier Cru, Les Truffières has a welcome vibrancy that balances its riches, amplifies its finish and puts its refinement into sharp relief. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Meursault Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Château de Blagny 2012
($70, Louis Latour USA): Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s top-notch producers, hit a bull’s eye with their 2012s. The vintage produced concentrated wines and capturing acidity, especially for the whites, was a challenge. Latour succeeded brilliantly. This Meursault has a beautiful, yet not overripe, density for a premier cru in 2012. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2012
($155, Louis Latour USA): Latour, the largest owner of Corton-Charlemagne, makes sensational wines year in and year out from that vineyard. Indeed, in my opinion, there is no better producer of Corton-Charlemagne. As expected from Grand Cru white Burgundy, Latour’s Corton-Charlemagne bottlings evolve gracefully and improve over a decade or two. … Read more