($12, Kobrand): The 2009 vintage is likely the best the Beaujolais region has seen in decades, according to veteran producers there. It’s no surprise then, that Jadot, a top-notch Beaune-based Burgundy producer who has been investing heavily there since their purchase of Château des Jacques in 1996, made stunning Beaujolais in 2009. … Read more
Category Archives: France – Burgundy
Bouchard Père et Fils, Beaune-Grèves (Burgundy, France) “Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus” 2007
($97, Henriot, Inc.): This is Bouchard’s flagship wine from the heart of the famed Beaune-Grèves vineyard. At trade tastings, they even offer it after the conventionally more highly regarded wines from the Corton appellation. Lighter and more forward than usual–reflective of the 2007 vintage–the mixture of bright red fruit and a stoniness still dances across the palate. … Read more
Bouchard Père et Fils, Le Corton (Burgundy, France) 2007
($91, Henriot, Inc.): Bouchard has substantial holdings in Corton from which they make consistently fine examples. This is one of them. Showing its grand cru status, it conveys a core of ripe–almost sweet–fruit encircled by supple tannins. Remarkably forward, the charm of the 2007 vintage is apparent. … Read more
In Defense of the Burgundy Négociant
I am always surprised how many experienced Burgundy aficionados, be they sommeliers or just plain passionate consumers, overlook or denigrate Burgundy’s négociants while heaping praise on the growers’ wines. Sommeliers may shun them because of commercial reasons. Négociants’ wines are more widely available and many sommeliers prefer to list wines from small growers whose wines are difficult for diners to find in retail stores. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2008
($65, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Laurent Drouhin, one of the principals of the house, says that his father believes the 2008 Chablis are the “best of his lifetime,” because of the ideal weather during the growing season and their biodynamic farming. … Read more
Domaine Lucien Boillot, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Cherbaudes 2006
($85, Kermit Lynch): Although the Les Cherbaudes vineyard has good neighbors, adjacent to the Grand Cru Chapelle-Chambertin and just down the hill from Grand Crus Chambertin-Clos de Beze and Mazis-Chambertin, it lacks the prestige of Gevrey’s best Premier Crus, Clos St.… Read more
Lucien Boillot, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2006
($25, Kermit Lynch): Consumers tend to ignore the 2006 vintage for red Burgundy because it followed–and was overshadowed by–the sensational 2005 vintage. It’s too bad because many fine wines, such as this one, were made that year. Though from a “lowly” Bourgogne Rouge appellation, the wine delivers more than the appellation suggests because it was made by a talented producer using only his–not purchased–grapes. … Read more
Lucien Le Moine, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Cazetiers 2007
($108, Vintus): Le Moine, a small négociant–his total production is only 2,500 cases–started just a decade ago, but has already made a name for himself. He works with one or two growers in each appellation focusing on Premier and Grand Crus and producing only a few barrels of each wine. … Read more
Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Lavaux St. Jacques 2007
($165, Martine’s Wines, Inc.): This pretty wine shows the grace and beauty of some 2007 red Burgundies. Floral and delicate, it’s long and balanced. But don’t for a minute think that delicate means light. No, this is classic Burgundy: flavor–savory leafy notes–without weight. … Read more
Michael Gay et Fils, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Greves 2006
($53, Martine’s Wines): Although the 2006 red Burgundies were far less consistent than the more acclaimed 2005s, many producers delivered excellent wines. Michel Gay’s Beaune Grèves is one of them. Grèves is on most producers’ short list of the best vineyard sites in Beaune. … Read more
Michel Tête, Julienas (Beaujolais, France) Domaine de Clos du Fief 2007
($18, Louis Dressner Selections): Michel Tête, one of the top Beaujolais producers, uses the name Domaine de Clos du Fief for the vineyards he owns in Juliénas, one of the 10 villages in Beaujolais allowed to carry the village name. Wines from Juliénas typically display a charming rusticity and true to form, this one combines that engaging quality with an earthy—almost briary—character that melds nicely with the bright red fruit flavors. … Read more
Domaine Piron et Lafont, Chenas (Beaujolais, France) Quartz 2006
($18, Michael Skurnick): Chenas is one of the 10 villages in Beaujolais whose wines are distinctive and are allowed to carry the village name—instead of the more generic Beaujolais-Villages—on the label. The name, Quartz, comes from a vein of quartz running through the vineyard and is responsible for the wine’s earthy minerality, which acts as a lovely complement to its red cherry fruit-like flavors. … Read more
Burgundy on the Rise
Burgundians were heralding the quality of the 2009 vintage–perhaps another “vintage of the century”–even before the grapes were harvested, let alone transformed into wine. That’s because the weather during the growing season predicted an extremely successful vintage. Prices at the just concluded 2009 Hospices de Beaune auction confirm the locals’ enthusiasm for the vintage. … Read more
Vincent Audras, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Clos de Haute-Combe 2006
($19, Becky Wasserman Selection): Julienas is one of the ten crus–best villages–within the Beaujolais region. This wine’s charmingly rustic character nicely complements and offsets the cherry-like fruitiness. Mild tannins and bright acidity lend structure without being abrasive. It’s a perfect “bistro” wine.… Read more
Domaine Joblot, Givry (Burgundy, France) Clos du Cellier Aux Moines 2007
($58, Robert Kacher Selections): Givry, along with Mercurey, are the two most important villages for red wine in the Côte Chalonnaise. Wines from there may lack the prestige compared to those from the Côte d’Or, but are often equally enjoyable. Joblot, a leading producer based in Givry, makes wines from a number of that village’s vineyards. … Read more
Albert Morot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Bressandes 2007
($63, Robert Kacher Selections): Morot, who owns about 3.25 acres of the large–by Burgundy standards–(43-acre) 1er Cru Bressandes vineyard, made a classic red Burgundy from those grapes in 2007, a vintage that produced many charming forward red Burgundies. One whiff of the gloriously perfumed nose predicts good things will follow. … Read more
Drouhin, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2006
($26, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Less well-known towns just outside of Beaune in the heart of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, such as Savigny- or Chorey-lès-Beaune (lès means near), offer consumers an excellent opportunity to savor the charms of Burgundy without taking out a second mortgage. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “La Foret” 2006
($15, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): All Burgundy is highly dependent on producer, but none more than those labeled Bourgogne Rouge, Burgundy’s lowliest appellation seen on these shores. Since Drouhin is one of Burgundy’s top producers, don’t miss this one. This value-packed 2006 La Foret, their basic red Burgundy, delivers simple, straightforward red and black fruit flavors intertwined with just a hint of earthy, leafy notes. … Read more
2007: An Excellent Vintage for White Burgundies
White Burgundy fans should be very happy. The 2007 vintage produced a wide array–from Chablis to Mâcon–of excellent white wines. And the world-wide economic crisis means that prices are lower. That combination is a “perfect tranquility” for Burgundy lovers.
I reported my preliminary assessment of the vintage last fall and update it now for the whites since they are especially appealing and are starting to arrive on retailers’ shelves.… Read more
Maison Nicolas Potel, Échézeaux (Burgundy, France) 2007
($157, Frederick Wildman): In Burgundy, it’s rare to have a consistently great vintage for reds, such as 2005, or a poor one, such as 1992. In most years, there’s lots of variability. There were even duds in 2005 and some excellent 1992 reds. … Read more
Georges Descombes, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2006
($30): I know, 30 bucks for Beaujolais is a lot of money. But, this is not your father’s grapey rendition. Louis Dressner manages to find Beaujolais producers who make distinctive wines. Those of you skeptical of the genre–that includes Michael Franz, my colleague and editor at WRO–really ought to try wines like this one. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) “Grancey” 2006
($120, Louis Latour Inc.): Corton, the only grand cru vineyard for red wine in the Cote de Beaune, is large and produces wines of variable quality. Latour, the largest owner of the vineyard, makes one of the best. Corton Grancey, a proprietary–not a plot–name, is a blend of wine from Latour’s best grand cru plots within the Corton vineyard. … Read more
Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Cuvée Tardive” 2007
($30, Louis Dressner Selections): The Clos de la Roilette is a beautifully located 22-acre vineyard in Fleurie, one of the ten crus (named villages) of Beaujolais, adjacent to Moulin-a-Vent. This, the Cuvée Tardive–not to be confused with a vendange tardive, which would indicate a sweet wine–is a selection from old vines and typically needs more aging time. … Read more
Henry Fessy, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2007
($13, Louis Latour Inc.): The venerable Burgundy négociant, Maison Louis Latour, has just purchased this well-known Beaujolais producer. Although we can expect a bump up in quality as Latour takes control, this 2007 Fleurie, from one of the 10 named villages in Beaujolais, is already an engaging wine. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) ‘Vignes Franches’ 2006
($63, Louis Latour Inc.): Always one of Latour’s best premier cru wines, the 2006 Beaune Vignes Franches is no exception. It’s classic red Burgundy from one of Beaune’s great vineyards: mid-weight, bright red fruit intertwined with a delicate leafy — almost mushroom-like — character. … Read more
Michel Tete, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Domaine du Clos du Fief 2006
($24, Louis Dressner Selections): The wines from Julienas, one of the 10 named villages–or crus–of Beaujolais typically have an attractive spice and rusticity which makes them one of my favorites from that region. Michel Tete captures that essential essence–spiced red fruit–in this beautifully balanced wine.… Read more
Michel Tete, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Domaine du Clos du Fief “Cuvée Prestige” 2006
($30, Louis Dressner Selections): Michel Tete makes serious Beaujolais. His wines dispel the notion that Beaujolais is simply grapey swill. He makes this Cuvée Prestige along with a regular bottling from the Domaine du Clos du Fief (also reviewed this week). … Read more
Domaine Coquelet, Chiroubles (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2007
($20, Louis Dressner Selections): Damien Coquelet, only 20 years old, comes from a family–Descombes–whose name is synonymous with superb Beaujolais. This Chiroubles could be the poster child for the wines of that village. Very fragrant, with a delicate–almost lacey–minerality, it is not grapey at all. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Chassagne-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) Rouge 2006
($28, Louis Latour Inc.): Although the grand and premier cru vineyards of Chassagne-Montrachet produce three times as much white wine as red, its village wines are more often red than white and, like this one, are often very good values. This charming Pinot Noir-based wine delivers pure bright cherry-like flavors intertwined with a hint of leafiness. … Read more
Terres Dorees, Beaujolais (Burgundy, France) “l’Ancien de Jean-Paul Brun” 2007
($19): Jean-Paul Brun is one of Beaujolais’ treasures because of the consistent quality of the wines he makes. His crus of Beaujolais (some of them reviewed this week) are stunning, but his ‘simple’ Beaujolais is equally illuminating because it is so different from the all too often sweet and grapey industrial Beaujolais on the market. … Read more
Katherine & Claude Marechal, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “Cuvée Gravel” 2006
($32, Louis Dressner Selections): Bourgogne Rouge–although a ‘simple’ appellation–can be an excellent buy in good vintages from serious producers, such as this one. It also serves an excellent introduction to red Burgundy and its contrast with the same variety from our West Coast, Pinot Noir. … Read more
Venerable Burgundy auction gets a makeover
‘Irrelevant” was the word a high-ranking representative of a leading Burgundy negociant firm, who prefers to remain anonymous for fear of offending the tightly knit Burgundy wine community, used to describe the current Hospices de Beaune auction. That’s a startling assessment of what was – and probably still is – the world’s most important wine auction.… Read more
Domaine Maume, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2006
($63, Kermit Lynch): Domaine Maume, a family run property, owns about 10 acres of vines in Gevrey-Chambertin. When young, Maume wines, like this one, emphasize power rather than finesse. In this case, there’s enormous concentration, more than you’d expect for a village wine, but at this stage the oak flavor and tannin is a little too prominent, which means it’s a good candidate for the cellar. … Read more
An Early Overview of 2007 Burgundies
Even though it’s hard to recommend specific wines from the 2007 vintage at this stage because most are unfinished and still developing in barrel, an early assessment of the 2007 vintage in Burgundy is important because it helps determine a buying strategy now.… Read more
Domaine Maume, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2006
($32): Bourgogne Rouge is a category often overlooked (and rightly so) by consumers. But from good producers, such as Maume, these wines represent a good introduction to Burgundy and its Pinot Noir. Quite forward, this one is full of ripe good black cherry flavors and acidity and balanced by a hint of earthiness. … Read more
Robert Chevillon, Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (Burgundy, France) 2006
($25, Kermit Lynch): More Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (a blend of at least one-third Pinot Noir and the remainder Gamay) is made than Bourgogne Rouge, but very little reaches our shores. It’s too bad because when well-made, like this one, it is a bright and juicy wine with refreshing rusticity perfect for current drinking with simple fare like a roast chicken.… Read more
Domaine Pierre Morey, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir 2006
($27, Wilson Daniels): The French are finally caving in to the idea of putting the grape name on the label — at least for their lower-level appellation controllée wines, such as this Bourgogne Rouge. Pierre Morey is one of the most talented and rigorous winemakers in Burgundy and this, his lowest level wine, speaks to his ability. … Read more
Louis Latour, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Caillerets 2006
($75, Louis Latour Inc.): Wines from Les Caillerets, one of Chassagne-Montrachet’s most refined 1er cru, often have more finesse than most of the wines from that village, which tend to be a bit earthier. Latour’s fits that mold, delivering elegance more associated with Puligny- than Chassagne-Montrachet. … Read more
Hospices de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) “Cuvée Charlotte Dumay” 2005
($135, Brown Forman): All wines from the Hospices de Beaune are made by the Hospices’ winemaker and then sold to a firm, such as Michel Picard in this case, which finishes the aging, known as élevage. (The name of the firm performing the élevage appears at the bottom of the label). … Read more
Dupont-Tisserandot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Les Cazetiers) 2006
($96, VOS Selections): In addition to his excellent village Gevrey-Chambertin, Dupont-Tisserandot made a stellar group of wines from that village’s premier and grand cru sites in 2006. The signature–elegance and finesse, not raw power–is the same, but this Les Cazetiers has more of everything, reflecting the stature of the vineyard. … Read more
Dupont-Tisserandot, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2006
($55, VOS Selections): Village wines, caught between entry level regional Bourgogne or Côtes de Nuits Villages and the sought-after premier and grand crus, are often overlooked–even scorned–by Burgundy drinkers. Don’t overlook this one. It leads with a subtly floral nose and then grabs you with an elegant combination of spice, leather and earth. … Read more
Dupont-Tisserandot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Lavaux St. Jacques 2006
($96, VOS Selections): This premier cru comes across a little coarser than his Les Cazetiers and shows Burgundy’s earthier side. Although not as refined, it conveys a charming rusticity. It would be a good choice for more robust fare. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 8, 2008… Read more
Jean-Claude Belland, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos de la Vigne Au Saint 2005
($72, VOS Selections): Clos de la Vigne au Saint, one of the many Corton Grand Cru, is well- known as a flagship of Maison Louis Latour’s reds because they are practically the sole owner of the vineyard and consistently make a marvelous wine from it. … Read more
Jean-Claude Belland, Chambertin Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2005
($150, VOS Selections): Although located in Santenay in the Cote de Beaune, Belland owns a small portion–less than an acre–of the grand cru vineyard, Chambertin. His 2005 has the earthy and leathery notes atop red and black fruit flavors that make Chambertin so alluring. … Read more
Albert Bichot, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes 2005
($16, Arborway Imports): Bichot, an underrated Burgundy négociant, will attract considerable attention with this bargain-priced, succulent Pinot Noir. It has real Burgundy character–earth notes combined with bright fruit–and is perfect for current consumption. 87 Michael Apstein May 6, 2008… Read more
Let’s Copy the French
If imitation is the greatest form of flattery, then we should flatter the French. Not by copying their wines, but by copying how to show them to the public.
Those who know me or have read my columns know that I love French wines, especially Burgundy.… Read more
Bouchard Pere & Fils, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos de la Mousse 2006
($66, Henriot): Clos de la Mousse, a premier cru vineyard, lies smack in the middle of Beaune. Bouchard owns all of this 8.5-acre vineyard, a rarity in Burgundy where most of the vineyards are split among multiple owners. Very aromatic, this moderate weight wine has captivating cherry-like flavors and good length. … Read more
Joseph Burrier, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Les Paquelets” 2005
($20, Ex-Cellars): Burrier, proprietor of the high-quality Château de Beauregard in Pouilly-Fuissé, also acts as a small négociant for a few wines from Beaujolais. This terrific wine from Julienas, one of the best crus of Beaujolais, conveys fresh fruity, but not grapey, flavors along with an alluring wildness often characteristic of wines from this village. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos St. Jacques 2005
($129, Kobrand): This is a Grand Cru wine in all respects except the label. The story goes that when the locals were classifying the vineyards in the 1930s as either Grand or Premier Cru, the Clos St. Jacques was set to be included as a Grand Cru. … Read more
Vincent Girardin, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Renardes 2005
($88, Vineyard Brands): Girardin’s style favors the forward fruity side of Burgundy rather than the earthy leafy side. Impressive, almost flamboyant aromas, precede the packed, ripe flavors–from fruit, not oak–that are the predominant features of this silky wine. Nicely balanced, it shows the ripeness of the vintage without going overboard.… Read more