($50, AP Imports): The 2016 vintage in Burgundy was plagued by calamitous weather causing significantly reduced yields in many locales and more than normal variability in quality throughout the region. Some producers wound up making small amounts excellent wine, while others wound up with wines that were out of balance. … Read more
($45): Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, part of the Kendall-Jackson portfolio, prides itself on the mountainous location of its vineyards. The conventional wisdom is that higher elevation vineyards are cooler, which allows slower ripening, better flavor development and better retention of acidity. This Chardonnay, a blend from several vineyards, supports that idea. … Read more
($60): Compared to their regular (multi-vineyard blend) Chardonnay, the one from Bear Point Vineyard has better density and is more elegant. Although the concentration is what’s immediately noticeable, its elegance, especially in the finish, is what sticks in your mind. Judicious oak aging adds a subtle creaminess to its citrus-tinged flavors, making it a good choice for chicken in a creamy mushroom sauce. … Read more
($100): Stonestreet produces single vineyard Chardonnay, which, when tasted side-by-side, are distinctly different. Whether the differences are worth the price differential is something for you and your banker to decide. Upper Barn Vineyard, at 1,800 ft elevation, must be an even cooler site because the wine is racier compared to the Bear Point Chardonnay. … Read more
($82): Spottswoode’s Lyndenhurst bottling comes from a combination of their grapes that don’t make the cut for their top wine along with purchased grapes. In that sense, it’s the Bordeaux equivalent of a “second” wine. Second wines, whether in Bordeaux or California, are a good introduction to a producers’ style at a lower price. … Read more
($20): This wine, like most made from Cabernet Franc, is lighter and more herbal than wine made from Cabernet Sauvignon. Less fruity with more emphasis on the savory flavors, it has lovely restraint without being austere. The balance of fruitiness and earthy qualities sings. … Read more
($117): In a word, show-stopping. Léoville Poyferré has really upped their game beginning with the 2010 vintage. They made significant changes in the winery that year, installing smaller fermenting vats to allow them to have even more precision in fermenting grapes from the different vineyard parcels. … Read more
($35, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Though the producer according to the label is Dominio del Plata, the important name is that of Susana Balbo, one of Argentina’s top producers. In this wine, she has fashioned an attractive blend of Malbec (75%) and Cabernet Franc.… Read more
($45, Folio Fine Wine Partners): A plummy and polished Bordeaux-blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (53%), Cabernet Franc (24%), Malbec (16%), and Petit Verdot, Balbo’s Brioso is fruit-focused, yet balanced by enough acidity to keep it fresh and lively. A suave texture adds to its appeal. … Read more
($42): Don’t let the lack of an upscale appellation deter you from this sensational Sauvignon Blanc. Although legally it must be labeled as California because less than 85 percent of the grapes came from a more particular AVA, the grapes have excellent provenance — one-third come from Napa County while two-thirds come from Sonoma County. … Read more
($38): Cuvée 20 was originally inaugurated to celebrate 20 years of sparkling wine production by J, founded in 1986. A blend of almost equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (with a drop of Pinot Meunier), it is now one of their beloved bottlings. … Read more
($28): This is Kendall-Jackson’s mid-tier Cabernet Sauvignon, positioned between their Vintner’s Reserve and their Alexander Valley Jackson Estate bottlings. A balanced blend of five Bordeaux grapes (Cabernet Sauvignon [81%], Petit Verdot [9%], Merlot [5%], Cabernet Franc [3%] and Malbec), it’s focused on dark fruit flavors. … Read more
($40): Kendall-Jackson’s Jackson Estate bottling is a giant step up from their other Cabernet Sauvignon offerings, presumably because it comes from a more rigorous selection of their grapes. With more character and complexity, it mingles olive-tinged and herbal savory elements with a dark plum or cassis-like fruitiness. … Read more
($19, Quintessential Wines): Here’s yet another example of why Rioja can be such a treasure trove of value-paced wines. Viña Eguía’s Reserva, made entirely from Tempranillo, provides a lovely balance of vibrant red fruit-like flavors and savory nuances. The modest 13.5 percent-stated alcohol belies the weight and depth of the wine. … Read more
($13): The Teece family, the owners of Mt. Beautiful, a top New Zealand Pinot Noir producer, have produced a lighter and more delicate style of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. It still conveys the characteristic pleasant zingy bite you’d expect from New Zealand’s signature grape, but it doesn’t shake you by the lapels. … Read more
($45): Since their founding, Mt. Beautiful has always focused on making high-quality Pinot Noir. The 2015 vintage was the first time they have produced a reserve bottling, labeled 10 Barrels, presumably because they used their top 10 barrels for the blend. It’s a wonderful Pinot Noir, showing both the fruity and savory side of that grape. … Read more
($65): Tenuta Carretta owns a small piece of Cannubi, arguably Barolo’s most famous vineyard. A youthful Barolo, it delivers a haunting combination of floral elements followed by tarriness. Paradoxically, it’s delicate, but with a substantial presence. Its firm tannic structure is appropriate for its age and does not perturb the wine’s harmony and balance. … Read more
($45): In my opinion, Lanson does not receive the credit it’s due. Their non-vintage Brut combines a welcome steeliness and vibrancy with richness. Geek alert — the vibrancy is, in part, due to their blocking the malolactic fermentation, action of bacteria that normally changes firm green apple-like (malic) acidity to softer (creamy) lactic acidity. … Read more
($24, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Susana Balbo has fashioned a captivating ying-yang of a white wine. Floral and seductively aromatic, it delivers a hint of sweetness that is balanced perfectly with bracing acidity. The overall impression is that of a clean, fresh and lively wine. … Read more
($30, Vineyard Brands): Late Bottled Vintage Port, or LBV as it is commonly known, is an ideal way to savor some of the glories of Vintage Port without waiting the requisite two or three decades for the latter to mature in the bottle. … Read more
($55): Tenuta Marsiliana is Principe Corsini’s estate in the Maremma area of Tuscany. They refer to this wine, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, as the estate’s “grand vin,” as the French would, presumably because of the Bordeaux blend of grapes. … Read more
($30): As much as I liked Principe Corsini’s 2015 annata (standard or regular one) Chianti Classico, their 2015 Riserva is just better. Riserva should be better than the regular bottling, but that isn’t always the case. They can be overdone or over-extracted and out of balance. … Read more
($43): With the introduction of Gran Selezione several years ago, Chianti Classico has a quality pyramid with annata (regular or standard bottling) at the bottom, followed by Riserva and then Gran Selezione at the pinnacle. With Don Tommaso, Principe Corsini shows they can produce a stunning more “modern” style of Chianti Classico that contrasts beautifully with their Riserva. … Read more
($24): Principe Corsini’s 2015 Chianti Classico exemplifies why Chianti Classico in general is so popular. Bright and fresh, it delivers the ideal combination of red cherry-like fruitiness with haunting earthy, “not just fruit” flavors that give it complexity and character. Lively acidity and smooth tannins make it the “go-to” red wine now. … Read more
($60): People who think Barbaresco is a lighter version of Barolo will change their opinion after trying this wine. A burly and broad-shouldered Barbaresco from the relatively obscure Cascina Bordino vineyard in the southern edge of Treiso, this one combines firm minerality with weight and appropriately prominent tannins. … Read more
($24): Gary Eberle has been making wine for decades, having founded his eponymous estate in 1982. His experience shows in his wines, both this charm-filled Chardonnay and in his equally impressive Cabernet Sauvignon. With his 2017 Chardonnay he walks the line beautifully between delivering too little and too much. … Read more
($34): While Jason-Stephens’ Cabernet and Merlot bottlings exhibit savory elements that complement their dark fruitiness, this bottling embraces bold fruitiness. A ripe blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), Merlot (30%), with equal parts of Malbec, Carmenere, Petite Verdot and Cabernet Franc, it weighs in at 15.1 percent stated alcohol. … Read more
($24): Intriguing and welcome leafy and herbal nuances, a hallmark of real Merlot, complements the dark fruitiness that otherwise dominates. A hint of chocolate, presumably from oak aging, either enhances or detracts, depending on your point of view. The silky tannins in this blend of Merlot (85%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) and Malbec make it ideal for current consumption. … Read more
($28): Though the focus is firmly on dark fruit flavors, lovely olive-tinged savory notes come through in this Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant (76%) Bordeaux-blend. Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc round out the blend. The oak influence is better integrated at this stage compared to their Merlot. … Read more
($70): Freemark Abbey, one of the iconic Napa Valley Cabernet producers, continues their streak with this concentrated and deep 2013 rendition. Under its hulking frame lies elegance and refinement. The tannins have a lovely dusty quality, appropriate for a youthful Rutherford Cabernet. … Read more
($25): Lovely herbal elements balance and enhance the dark fruit flavors in this Cabernet. Lip-smacking acidity imparts life and energy. Although a generous Cabernet, it is not out-sized. The “not just fruit” savory notes add complexity and supple tannins allow current consumption. … Read more
($35): Knights Valley of Sonoma County has long been known as an excellent site for Cabernet Sauvignon. With good depth and length, this wine supports that region’s reputation. Subtle herbal notes accent its ripe dark fruit focus. Polished tannins mean it’s fine to drink this winter. … Read more
($20): Petite Sirah is a difficult variety to tackle, with producers often overdoing everything. French Bar manages to contain themselves with this one. Weighing in at a modest — at least by Petite Sirah standards — stated 14.2 percent alcohol, this one is still robust, but with an enhancing spiciness that actually modulates its power. … Read more
($19): Principe Corsini, a great Chianti Classico producer, has an estate in Maremma where the grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, for this wine are grown. With dark succulent fruit flavors and bright Tuscan acidity, the blend works. It’s a bold wine, but not over the top because of the energy the acidity provides. … Read more
($36): Merry Edwards is clearly a very talented winemaker because not only does she produce stunning Pinot Noirs, she also makes incredible Sauvignon Blanc. Her 2017 seamlessly balances a subtle and welcome bite characteristic of the variety with a creamy, mineral-infused elegance to produce a dazzling array of flavors. … Read more
($17): Some would say that Kendall-Jackson (or “KJ” as it is sometimes called) created or at least stimulated America’s love-affair with Chardonnay with their “Vintner’s Reserve” decades ago. It has since become this country’s best-selling Chardonnay for 25 years, according to their website. … Read more
($15): The label notes, “Governo all’Uso Toscano,” which means the wine was made using the centuries-old governo method. With this technique, the winemaker held back some slightly over-ripe or even dried grapes to increase the body of the wine or to re-start a “stuck” fermentation — one that had stopped prematurely. … Read more
($23): It seems that everyone wants to get in on the rosé craze. Here we have a top Tuscan producer, well-known for their stunning Chianti Classico, making a bubbly from Sangiovese. It works. This bright and fresh rosé bubbly delivers delicate hints of strawberries. … Read more
($32): Realizing the diversity of soils within Morgon, the wine producers there divided that appellation into six fairly large (averaging about 450 acres) climats, one of which is Grand Cras. This one, from Mee Godard, one of the rising stars in Morgon, comes from a single 1-acre plot of 20-year-old vines. … Read more
($48): The line-up of five 2016 Pinot Noirs from Merry Edwards is her best ever, in my opinion. The five include this one from the Sonoma Coast, three single vineyard ones, Klopp Ranch, Flax Vineyard and Meredith Estate, from the Russian River Valley, and one labeled just “Vintage 20,” a blend of her top barrels from those and other vineyards she created to celebrate her 20th vintage. … Read more
($63): In terms of density, Merry Edwards 2016 Pinot Noir from the Flax Vineyard falls in between that of the one from the Sonoma Coast and the Klopp Ranch. It delivers a wonderfully complex combination of red fruit flavors, spice and herbs. … Read more
($66): Merry Edwards’ Pinot Noir from the Klopp Ranch is spectacular, delivering black fruit-like power seasoned beautifully with spice and minerals. With all its density, it’s still fresh and thankfully does not venture into the “Pinot-Syrah” category. Despite its power, it’s paradoxically still restrained and amazingly complex. … Read more
($68): Merry Edwards’ Meredith Estate Pinot Noir is always one of my favorites in her line-up. Is it a stand out because it’s one of her own vineyards, purchased and planted about 20 years ago? Whatever the reason, the 2016 is particularly magnificent. … Read more
($120): This special bottling, a blend of the best barrels from selected vineyards, celebrates Merry Edwards’ 20th vintage under her name. Aside from the sheer deliciousness of the wine, it makes an important point — single vineyard wines are not always superior to those made from a blend of several vineyards. … Read more
($17, Banfi Vintners): The name, L’Altra Anima, translates literally as “other soul,” presumably in reference to Barbera being the “other” major grape of Piedmont. It has the engaging spiciness and verve of Barbera with an unusual — and welcome — polished patina. … Read more
($18, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): The wines from Saint-Véran, a small appellation surrounding its more famous cousin, Pouilly-Fuissé, can offer exceptional value, especially when produced by someone like Drouhin. Made entirely from Chardonnay, Drouhin’s Saint-Véran combines a lovely stoniness characteristic of the appellation and a hint of creamy seductiveness with the elegant and lacy Drouhin style. … Read more
($16, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Véronique Drouhin explained that they have always purchased grapes from a variety of growers who have holdings in Les Crays, but this is the first year they decided to put the name of that lieu-dit (vineyard) on the label. … Read more
($27): Godard just acquired a vineyard in Moulin-à-Vent, expanding her holdings to about 16 acres in total. Au Michelon, located in the northern part of Moulin-à-Vent, has dark stones and dark sandy soil, according to Godard, which she says gives the wine a combination of power and elegance. … Read more
($29): Mee Godard, a young woman originally from Korea, is one of the rising shining stars of Beaujolais. Her wines are not to be missed because of their precision and distinctiveness, not to mention their sheer deliciousness. Located in Morgan, she bottled three different wines in 2017 from various climats (vineyards) in that cru, Corcelette, Côte de Py and Grand Cras. … Read more
($37): The union of Morgon producers divided Morgon into six climats according to soil type about 50 years ago, according to Godard. Now, more and more producers there — and in Moulin-à-Vent as well — are putting these sites on labels. … Read more