
($18, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): The wines from Saint-Véran, a small appellation surrounding its more famous cousin, Pouilly-Fuissé, can offer exceptional value, especially when produced by someone like Drouhin. Made entirely from Chardonnay, Drouhin’s Saint-Véran combines a lovely stoniness characteristic of the appellation and a hint of creamy seductiveness with the elegant and lacy Drouhin style. … Read more




Tongue Dancer, the project of experienced winemaker James MacPhail and Kerry MacPhail, is an odd name for a wine but is supposed to evoke the image of wines that dance on your tongue. If the name sounds odd, the label is even weirder. 
Simonnet-Febvre’s 2016 Preuses is an exceptional wine at an exceptional price. Full-bodied with exotic undertones, it nonetheless conveys the firm minerality of great Chablis. Zesty, not shrill, the flavors jump from the glass and persist. A seemingly endless finish just adds to the appeal of this energetic wine.
The Fourchaume vineyard, which sits adjacent to the strip of Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis, is considered to be among the top 1er Cru vineyards. This wine has the added richness and depth characteristic of Fourchaume without scarifying any verve or energy. 


The 2015 vintage for red Bordeaux is, by and large, wonderful. In general, the wines deliver ripe flavors accompanied by sufficient structure — tannins and acidity — that prevent them from falling all over themselves. Château Lagrange, which has just gone from strength to strength over the last two decades, made an impressive wine in 2015.
Château Thivin is THE producer Côte de Brouilly, one of the ten crus of Beaujolais, which sits on a small ancient volcanic cone. The Geoffray family purchased the estate, which had been in existence since the 12th century, in 1877.
Château Thivin owns about 18 acres of this 65-acre east-facing vineyard in Brouilly, the largest and most southern of Beaujolais’ ten cru. Lighter and fruitier than their Côte de Brouilly, it still conveys underlying minerality because of the rose-granite soil in the vineyard.
What’s particularly impressive about this Cabernet Sauvignon is the complexity and poise it delivers for the price. It should be surprise because of Jed Steele’s experience and the source of the grapes. The Red Hills part of Lake County is a relatively new AVA.
ZD has produced a quintessential Napa Valley Cabernet and shows, once again, why that region is one of the best places in the world for that grape. It’s a powerful Cabernet — it is from California, after all — but it has elegance and is not overdone.
Jed Steele has captured the lovely delicacy and subtle savory notes that are the hallmarks of Pinot Noir. Lively acidity keeps it fresh, while fine tannins allow enjoyment now, without additional bottle aging. It finishes with a hint of sweetness, which allows you to enjoy a glass by itself while preparing to grill the salmon.
Nero di Troia, a virtually unknown grape outside of Puglia, is capable of making attractively rustic — in a good way — wine. This one packs a punch, but without the rough tannins that frequently accompany that kind of power.
Wines made from the Aglianico grape are often referred to as the Barolo of the South because of their firm tannins, high acidity, overall depth and need for bottle age to bring all the components together. Feudi San Gregorio has managed to marry these elements in this Aglianico and make it a pleasure to drink now — as long as you select the correct food and time of year.
This is why people love Cabernet. Not just fruit, but enticing hints of herbs and savory notes penetrate this wine. Similar to Columbia Winery’s Merlot, this Cabernet finishes with bitterness, not sweetness, which I find is essential if you want to drink more than a sip.
Here is a reminder that good character-filled wine is available for less than $20. A solid and deep Merlot, it combines herbal nuances with dark fruit notes. Supple tannins mean it’s perfect for a hearty beef dish tonight. A delectable hint of bitterness in the finish reinforces the idea that this Merlot is meant more for the table than for, “I’ll have a glass of Merlot” at the bar.
This is a Cabernet-based powerhouse Bordeaux blend that includes, in addition to that grape, Petit Verdot, Malbec (yes, it used to be, and still is, planted in Bordeaux), and Cabernet Franc. Despite its depth and power, the finely polished tannins allow for current consumption.
Full disclosure, I generally do not like Zinfandel, so I may be under scoring this wine. This is a masterful blend of Zinfandel (78%) from dry-farmed, 95-plus year old vineyards, Petite Sirah and Carignan. Dry-farmed vineyards ensure that the roots of the vines go deep to find water and presumably other compounds that add to the flavor of the grapes and, subsequently, to the wine.
Donnafugata, one of Sicily’s top producers, has shown consistently what stunningly good wines can come from that Italian island. Donnafugata’s 2016 Cerasuolo de Vittorio, a blend of Nero d’Avola and Frappato, is a delicate light to mid-weight floral red wine with charm and vivacity.
A seamless blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Merlot (40%) and Syrah, this classy red delivers far more refinement and complexity than you’d expect for the price. It conveys a touch of everything — black fruit notes, herbal nuances, and spice — and not too much of anything.
Borgaio di Meleto is a second label of Meleto, one of the top Chianti Classico producers. A value-packed juicy blend of Sangiovese (70%) and Merlot, this mid-weight red delivers both fruity and herbal elements. Surprising complexity for a wine of this price likely comes from a touch of oak aging in large old barrels.
Castello di Meleto, a top Chianti Classico producer based in Gaiole, has abandoned new French oak barrels for aging their Chianti Classico and eliminated the international varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, in the blend. Instead, the wine is 100 percent Sangiovese that has been aged in large old Slavonian oak barrels.
The wines from Castello di Meleto need to be re-visited because the current releases deliver extraordinary pleasure for the price. This marvelous Chianti Classico Reserva from their Vigneti Casi vineyards is both juicy and polished with a gorgeous texture.
White wines of Italy are often overlooked because of the stature of the country’s reds. Schiopetto, one of the top producers in the Collio, shows the heights that white wines can achieve in Italy. This 2016 Friulano amazes with its lanolin-like texture.
The problem for consumers with Riesling is knowing the level of sweetness since the grape is capable of producing superb bone-dry wines as well as gloriously sweet ones. Raphael, one of top properties on Long Island’s North Fork, helps by indicating on the back that their Riesling is semi-sweet.
Carpenè Malvolti, a top Prosecco producer, has fashioned this rosé bubbly from Pinot Noir (85%) and Rabosco, grown in the Veneto. Since rosé is not recognized as Prosecco category, this wine carries no legal designation. But don’t let that bother you.
Silvio Nardi is one of Brunello’s top producers. Always traditionally framed, you’ll never feel or taste a predominance of oak or wood in their wines. This Rosso comes from grapes grown vineyards some of which are designated for Rosso and some of which are designated for Brunello.
In addition to their Rosso di Montalcino, Tenuta Silvio Nardi producers three Brunelli, all of which are different and all of which I recommend highly. Indeed, their two single vineyard bottlings show the diversity of this region.
Tenuta Silvio Nardi’s Poggio Doria comes from a parcel, Oria, in their Casale del Bosco estate, which is located in the northwest portion of the Brunello zone. Volcanic soil here helps explain its firmness and tighter profile.
Silvio Nardi’s Manachiara estate, located in the eastern portion of the Montalcino zones, comprises about 550 acres, of which about 125 are planted. This Brunello is always explosive and the 2012 is no exception. Its gorgeous aromatics grab your attention immediately.
Barbera is often a “go-to” wine for Italian food because its inherent acidity keeps it juicy and lively throughout the meal. The difficulty is that the spectrum of Barbera is enormous, from astringent and hard to swallow to captivating.
This marvelous Barolo comes from grapes grown in the Cerequio and Sarmassa vineyards. It’s classically proportioned, with a Burgundian-like sensibility of “flavor without weight.” Elegant and refined, it packs plenty of flavor without a trace of heaviness. Substantial, yet not aggressive tannins, in the finish remind you it’s a youthful Barolo.
With the trio of producer, vintage and vineyard going for it, it’s not surprising that Chiarlo’s Cerequio is outstanding. The 2013 vintage in Barolo was very successful. Chiarlo is a top producer and Cerequio is a great vineyard.
OMG, as good as Chiarlo’s 2013 Cerequio is, their Cannubi is just better. It stops you in your tracks. Chiarlo owns about 3 acres of Cannubi, which is Barolo’s most famous vineyard. They are so selective and quality-oriented that they usually wind up using only half of their Cannubi crop for this wine.
There’s plenty going on in the broad-shouldered Pinot Noir. Savory leafy elements and spice complement and offset the ripe black fruit notes. Suave supple tannins lend support without being intrusive. A touch of heat in the finish — from the 14.2 percent stated alcohol — perturbs this otherwise nicely balanced wine.
Marjan Simcic, one the region’s top producers, has three tiers of wines made from Rebula (aka Ribolla Gialla). This one, from a single vineyard with 62-year old vines, is at the pinnacle. He ferments these white grapes for 16 days with the skins, just as he does for his reds, and then ages the wine in large and small oak barrels for up to two years.
With a lot of producers taking advantage of the popularity of Prosecco and producing vapid characterless swill, it’s a pleasure to find a bottle of the real thing. Clean and refreshing, this one has a welcome hint of bitterness in the finish that actually amplifies the wine’s fruitiness.
Pinot Grigio has become so popular that, for many, it is a commodity, as in “I’ll have a glass of Pinot Grigio…” with no sense of site or producer. The result is that a bevy of innocuous watery Pinot Grigio have diluted (no pun intended) the wine’s reputation.
Made entirely from Pinot Meunier, this powerful yet graceful Champagne, shows how that grape, in the right hands, can excel. The Pinot Meunier comes from old vines, which likely explains the wine’s elegance because that grape is more often used to bring fruitiness, not finesse, to the blend.
Pinson, one of my favorite Chablis producers, makes wines, even their village Chablis, that are focused, precise and well-priced. This one, from a lesser known site, is quintessential Premier Cru Chablis, delivering a fine flinty stony signature that expands in the glass, but never becomes heavy or ripe.
With its 14.7 percent stated-alcohol, this is a broad-shouldered Chardonnay. Fruit-focused and framed with subtle flavors from oak aging, it is actually balanced considering its size. Its overt, up-front flavors would go well with sautéed veal or a roast chicken.
La Crema sources the grapes for this Pinot Noir from the potentially better-suited vineyards on the Sonoma Coast. Compared to their Monterey bottling, the sweetness in this one is replaced by bright, ripe red fruit notes mixed with alluring herbal and leafy flavors.
It’s difficult to find reasonable Pinot Noir under $25 a bottle because it is a difficult grape to grow and even more difficult to turn into wine, especially if the producer doesn’t limit yield. In this one, La Crema balances a hint of cherry-like sweetness with briary elements.