BEAUNE, Burgundy, November 19, 2019: First the good news. The 2018 vintage produced large quantities of high-quality wines, both red and white. It’s unusual to see good yields of high-quality wines in Burgundy, but that’s what happened in 2018. Unlike the 2015 vintage, which I characterized as a “point and shot” vintage for the reds because the quality was so consistently
high that you practically couldn’t miss picking a fine wine, there is considerable variability among the 2018s that I’ve tasted. … Read more
Category Archives: France – Burgundy
William Fevre, Saint-Bris (Burgundy, France) 2018
($25, Maison Marques et Domaines):
Saint-Bris, formerly known as Sauvignon de Saint Bris before it was elevated to appellation d’origine controllée (AOC) status, is curious and unique in Burgundy. Located in the far north, near Chablis and covering a mere 200 acres, it requires the use of Sauvignon Blanc, not Chardonnay, for its wines. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Côteaux Bourguignons (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir “Les Pierres Dorées” 2017
($26, Louis Latour, USA):
Côteaux Bourguignons is a relatively new appellation, replacing Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire, an appellation I’ve never seen in the U.S., perhaps because a “grand ordinary” wine is hard to sell. Grapes for this appellation can come from anywhere in Burgundy, from Beaujolais in the south to Irancy in the north. … Read more
Domaine P-L & J-F Bersan, Cuvée Marianne, Irancy, 2019
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2029Domaine de Mauperthuis, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Clotilde Davenne, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Domaine Colinot, Veaupessiot, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Domaine Colinot, Palotte, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Christophe Ferrari Domaine St. Germain, Irancy, Burgundy 2019
Maison de la Chapelle, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Maison de la Chapelle, Les Bâtardes, Irancy, Burgundy, 2019

Isabelle & Denis Pommier, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Domaine Verret, Fût de Chêne, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Domaine Ternynck, Palotte, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019

Domaine Ternynck, Mazelot, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Domaine Colinot, Cuvée Soufflot, Irancy, Burgundy, 2019
Domaine Céline & Frédéric Gueguen, Les Mazelots, Irancy, Burgundy, 2019
Clotilde Davenne, Paradis, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Stéphan & Marie Podor, Les Mazelots, Irancy, Burgundy, 2015
Simonnet-Febvre, Paradis, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2018
Domaine Verret, Palotte, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Domaine Colinot, Les Mazelots, Irancy, Burgundy, 2012
Domaine Benôit Cantin, Cuvée Emeline, Irancy, 2015

Dampt Freres, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019

Jean Hugues & Guilhem Goisot, Les Mazelots, Irancy, 2017
William Fevre, Saint-Bris (Burgundy, France) 2018
($25, Maison Marques et Domaines):
Saint-Bris, formerly known as Sauvignon de Saint Bris before it was elevated to appellation d’origine controllée (AOC) status, is curious and unique in Burgundy. Located in the far north, near Chablis and covering a mere 200 acres, it requires the use of Sauvignon Blanc, not Chardonnay, for its wines. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Côteaux Bourguignons (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir “Les Pierres Dorées” 2017
($26, Louis Latour, USA):
Côteaux Bourguignons is a relatively new appellation, replacing Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire, an appellation I’ve never seen in the U.S., perhaps because a “grand ordinary” wine is hard to sell. Grapes for this appellation can come from anywhere in Burgundy, from Beaujolais in the south to Irancy in the north. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Saint-Bris (Burgundy, France) 2017
($20):
Simonnet-Febvre, another superb Chablis producer, crafts a consistently balanced Saint-Bris. The initial whiff screams Sauvignon Blanc, but amazingly, within minutes, aromas and then flavors of wet stone appear. Clean and cutting, this edgy wine displays plenty of depth. Where are the steamed clams?… Read more
Domaine Paul Pernot et Fils, Bourgogne Aligoté (Burgundy, France) 2017
($33): Based in Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine Paul Pernot et Fils, a family-owned and run domaine, is one of Burgundy’s stars for white wines. No question, their Bâtard-and Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet are stunning, albeit at triple digit prices. They put the same care that goes into those
Grand Crus into their Bourgogne Aligoté. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Irancy (Burgundy, France) 2015
($20):
Irancy, a small red wine appellation in northern Burgundy, near Chablis, is a name to remember. Its northern locale has meant lean and angular wines in the past because Pinot Noir was tough to ripen. But climate change in general and the wonderfully warm 2015 vintage means it’s time to take another look at this under-the-radar area. … Read more
Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2015
($40):
Comte Lafon, one of Burgundy’s most talented and best producers, is known especially for his white wines from Meursault, which usually sell for triple digits upon release. Here’s a chance to get an insight into his talents with this one from Saint-Véran, appellation bordering Pouilly-Fuissé in the Mâconnais part of Burgundy. … Read more
Domaine Ferret, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2016
($44, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):
Ferret has always been one of the top names in Pouilly-Fuissé, being one of the first to move from bulk to bottled wine after World War II to ensure quality. Since being acquired by Beaune-based Maison Louis Jadot in 2008, Ferret’s wines have reached new heights, no doubt, in part due to Audrey Braccini, their exceptionally talented winemaker. … Read more
Update from Burgundy: Hot, But Not 2003…At Least Not Yet
Record-breaking temperatures hit France and elsewhere in Europe recently with Beaune, in the heart of Burgundy, recording temperatures of over 100 degrees. While those kinds of
temperatures are common in California wine country, they are rare in Burgundy and immediately raise the question: How the vines and grapes faring?… Read more
Affordable Burgundy by Michael Apstein from Canada’s Quench Magazine
Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, Saint Julien, Médoc (Burgundy, France) “Croix de Beaucaillou” 2011
($50):
In 1995, as part of his upgrading of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, Jean-Eugène Borie introduced a “second” wine, Croix de Beaucaillou, which since 2005 has been a separate wine made from a separate vineyard that lies half-way between Lalande-Borie and Ducru-Beaucaillou itself. … Read more
Lucien Muzard et Fils, Santenay Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Maladière Vieilles Vignes 2017
($42, Polaner Selections):
The 2017 red Burgundies fall into two categories: forward and charming ready-to-drink wines and more structured ones suitable for the cellar. This Santenay falls into the first category. I attribute its amazing gracefulness, especially for Santenay, to the old vines in the hands of a talented producer. … Read more
Nicholas Maillet, Mâcon-Verzé (Burgundy, France) “Le Chemin Blanc” 2017
($42, Polaner Selections):
Though the 2017 vintage in Burgundy was stylistically inconsistent for reds, the white Burgundies were generally better and more consistent. And that’s true for the white wines from the Mâconnais. Fortunately, and luckily for consumers, Maillet recently has started bottling their wines instead of selling them to the local co-op. … Read more
Ballot Millot, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2017
($31, Polaner Selections):
Ballot Millot, a small grower based in Meursault, makes a consistently good line-up of Burgundy, both red and white. With the prices of Burgundy going through the roof, consumers need to look to Burgundies with less prestigious labels, such as Bourgogne Blanc instead of Meursault. … Read more
Domaine Parent, Pommard (Burgundy, France) La Croix Blanche 2012
($70):
Though not the current release, consumers need to be aware of this wine since it is still available. Domaine Parent, clearly one of the top growers in Pommard, opts to bottle this village wine separately because Anne Parent, who runs the domaine with her sister, Catherine, believes it is distinctive. … Read more
Domaine Sylvain Langoureau, Meursault-Blagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) La Piece Sous le Bois 2016
($60):
The vineyards of Blagny, a hamlet located high on the slope in Puligny-Montrachet, spread over both that village and the village of Meursault. So, it’s not surprising that the wines from Meursault-Blagny have a mineral-like resemblance to those from Puligny. … Read more
Domaine Joblot, Givry Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) “L’Empreinte” 2017
($47, Polaner Selections):
With the sky-high prices of wines from the Côte d’Or, consumers who love the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay-based wines from Burgundy must look elsewhere within that region. Givry, in the Côte Chalonnaise, is a good place to start, especially with the wines from Domaine Joblot, one of the top producers in the appellation. … Read more
Trapet Père et Fils, Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (Burgundy, France) “A Minima” 2017
($28, Polaner Selections):
Trapet Père et Fils, one of the great growers based in Gevery-Chambertin, makes outstanding wines from that village and neighboring villages, such as Marsannay. They also make this under-the-radar wine with an eye-catching nearly blank label with tiny letters.… Read more
Benjamin Leroux, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2016
($35, Vineyard Roads):
This is a fabulous value. Benjamin Leroux, the former winemaker at Comte Armand, the famed Pommard property, established his own estate in 2007. Now, like many small estates, has both his own grapes and buys some from growers he’s known over the years. Benjamin Leroux, Auxey-Duresse (Burgundy, France) 2016
($45, Vineyard Roads):
Auxey-Duresses, a village slightly off Burgundy’s the beaten track, offers great values precisely for that reason. This white Burgundy punches far above its lowly village appellation, delivering bright and cutting minerality along with a hint of creaminess. Another bargain for what it is and another case in my cellar.… Read more
Domaine Bouzereau-Gruère, Chassagne-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) Blanchot Dessous 2016

($48, AP Imports): This wine exemplifies the confusion surrounding Burgundy. The vineyard, Blanchot, is divided into two parts, Blanchot Dessus (dessus means “upper”) and Blanchot Dessous (dessous means lower). Blanchot Dessus is a classified as a Premier Cru, while the lower part, is just a village wine. … Read more
Domaine Bryczek, Morey Saint Denis (Burgundy, France) Clos Salon 2016

($50, AP Imports): The 2016 vintage in Burgundy was plagued by calamitous weather causing significantly reduced yields in many locales and more than normal variability in quality throughout the region. Some producers wound up making small amounts excellent wine, while others wound up with wines that were out of balance. … Read more
The Mother of All Wine Auctions
All hospitals have a Director. But only one–Les Hospices de Beaune–has a Director of Winemaking. (As a physician, I am especially interested in seeing that organizational chart.) The hospital needs a director of winemaking because it owns vineyards–over 150 acres of them, 85 percent of which are classified as Premier and Grand Cru, making it one of the largest vineyard owners in Burgundy. … Read more
Domaine Mee Godard, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Grand Cras 2017

($32): Realizing the diversity of soils within Morgon, the wine producers there divided that appellation into six fairly large (averaging about 450 acres) climats, one of which is Grand Cras. This one, from Mee Godard, one of the rising stars in Morgon, comes from a single 1-acre plot of 20-year-old vines. … Read more
The 2017 Burgundies
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2017

($18, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): The wines from Saint-Véran, a small appellation surrounding its more famous cousin, Pouilly-Fuissé, can offer exceptional value, especially when produced by someone like Drouhin. Made entirely from Chardonnay, Drouhin’s Saint-Véran combines a lovely stoniness characteristic of the appellation and a hint of creamy seductiveness with the elegant and lacy Drouhin style. … Read more
