Saperavi (spelled Saparavi on this label), an indigenous Georgian red grape, is unusual because both the skin and the juice is red, which results in a deeply colored wine. The label describes its profile accurately, “soft and fruity, lingering aftertaste.” It is big and ripe, bordering on sweet, with soft tannins.… Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Domaine Samuel Billaud, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2023 ($44)
Domaine Samuel Billaud, a top grower in Chablis, consistently makes terrific wines at all levels, AOC Village, Premier Cru, and Grand Cru. This excellent AOC Village Chablis is a blend from three plots, two on the left bank of the Serein River and one on the right bank, so it offers a good representation of the appellation.… Read more
Domaine Samuel Billaud, Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaillons (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2023 ($78)
Samuel Billaud’s Les Vaillons, from old vines, comes from the heart of Les Vaillons, not one of the adjacent vineyards that are allowed to use the name Vaillons. Typical of Vaillons, it displays a lovely floral aspect that contrasts with, and enhances, its minerality.… Read more
Domaine Samuel Billaud, Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre (Burgundy, France) 2023 ($89)
Minerals, flint, stones – these are the primary sensory signals that sum up this fabulous Chablis 1er Cru. Billaud admits that his 2023s are more minerally than many from that vintage and thinks it is because he waited longer to bottle them, allowing them to pick up additional complexity from the lees.… Read more
Domaine Samuel Billaud, Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir (Burgundy, France) 2023 ($163)
In general, the wines from Vaudésir and Les Clos compete for the pinnacle at the Chablis Grand Cru level. Vaudésir typically displays touch more richness, perhaps at the expense of minerality, compared to Les Clos. Samuel Billaud’s comes from two plots, one from the east side of the vineyard and the other from the west.… Read more
Domaine Paul Blanck, Alsace (France) Sylvaner Vieilles Vignes 2022 ($36)
French wine authorities allow only four grapes, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, and Muscat, to proclaim “Grand Cru” on the label when planted in any Alsace Grand Cru-designated vineyard. Sylvaner was excluded except (there are always exceptions in France) when planted in the Grand Cru vineyard of Zotzenberg.… Read more
Tenute Selvolini, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2022 ($34)
I know I sound like a broken record when I recommend Chianti Classico, but the truth is that it’s an easy-to-like category that rarely disappoints. Here’s yet another example. This suavely textured and balanced beauty is a fine amalgam of dark fruitiness and complementary herbal savory notes.… Read more
Tenuta di Capezzana, Carmignano (Tuscany, Italy) Villa di Capezzana 2021 ($70, Della Terra)
Carmignano, a small DOCG located just northwest of Florence, is the only DOCG that requires the blending of Cabernet (either Sauvignon or Franc) with Sangiovese. The practice originated with Catherine de’ Medici, who brought Cabernet Franc back from France in the 16th century and planted it in Carmignano where it was – as still is – called Uva Francesca (the French grape).… Read more
Il Marroneto, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) “Jacopo” 2022 ($89)
I know… $89 for a Rosso di Montalcino? Well, this is no ordinary Rosso. It’s a spectacular one. Marroneto, one of Brunello’s top producers, makes two Rosso, one labeled Ignaccio, and this one, Jacopo, made from a selection of their best grapes.… Read more
Boscarelli, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Tuscany, Italy) “Il Nocio” 2021 ($150)
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano has always lagged behind Brunello and Chianti Classico in recognition. One taste of this wine should change that, at least for you. There’s no doubt that Boscarelli is one of Vino Nobile’s top producers, and Il Nocio is their top wine.… Read more
Castello di Radda, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2023 ($20)
The 2023 vintage, a hot one in Tuscany, had to potential to produce rather robust examples of Chianti Classico. Castello di Radda’s is certainly ripe and juicy, yet not overdone or heavy. Savory nuances and great freshness from the classic Tuscan acidity and Radda’s elevated vineyards balance the plum-like fruitiness.… Read more
Isole e Olena, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2023 ($37)
Isole e Olena consistently produces a stylish Chianti Classico regardless of what Mother Nature throws at them. Due to heat, 2023 was a difficult year, but you wouldn’t know it from tasting this wine, which is a blend of mostly Sangiovese and a little Canaiolo.… Read more
Istine, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2023 ($38)
Istine, a small highly regarded family-owned Chianti Classico producer, has a familiar winegrowing history. The Fronti family started an agricultural supply business, used their knowledge of the terrain to acquire vineyards, started selling wine in bulk, and then, in 2009, started bottling their own wine.… Read more
Tenuta di Capezzana, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Ghiaie della Furba” 2022 ($64, Dalla Terra)
The late Ugo Contini Bonacossi, who was responsible for much of the renown of Tenuta di Capezzana, the family’s estate and the leading one in Carmignano, was always intrigued by the red wines from Bordeaux. So, in 1968, he planted Cabernet Sauvignon in pebbly soil (ghiaie, in Italian) along the Furba stream.… Read more
Fritz Haag, Mosel (Germany) Riesling VDP Gutswein Trocken 2024 ($26)
Regulations for VDP Gutswein, the base of the German quality (VDP) pyramid, require that the grapes come from the producer’s vineyards. Trocken indicates this Riesling is dry. Since Haag is a top producer, a VDP Gutswein from his estate should be high quality, and their lacey and fresh 2024 is just that.… Read more
Fattoria Le Pupille, Morellino di Scansano DOCG Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2023 ($30)
Scansano, located in the Maremma, in southwestern Tuscany, is yet another Tuscan village using the Sangiovese grape, here known as Morellino, for its wines. Fattoria Le Pupille, one of the top and most reliable producers of this DOCG, has done a great job with their juicy 2023, a “difficult” vintage known for many overblown wines.… Read more
Melini, Chianti Superiore DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “San Lorenzo” 2024 ($11)
The Chianti DOCG zone, a large area in Tuscany, has many subzones, like Chianti Classico and Chianti Rùfina, among many others. Wines labeled simply Chianti come from anywhere within the zone, can be released after only six months or so of aging, and should be fresh and juicy.… Read more
Borgo Salcetino, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2021 ($23)
I’ve said it before, but it is certainly worth repeating. Chianti Classico remains a “go-to” category when a consumer is faced with the choices on a restaurant’s wine list or at a retail store. I’m especially enthusiastic about the ‘21s from Chianti Classico because they have an energy that makes them a good match for the oil- and butter-based dishes coming from the Italian kitchen.… Read more
Tenuta di Capezzana, Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC (Tuscany, Italy) 2023 ($18, Dalla Terra)
Carmignano, a small but highly regarded DOCG region (there are only about 20 producers) located northwest of Florence is the only one in Tuscany to require Cabernet in the blend with Sangiovese. Initially, Cabernet Franc was the grape of choice because that’s what Catherine de’ Medici had brought back from France in 16th century.… Read more
Ponzi Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2023 ($18)
Oregon has always been known for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. So, Pinot Gris, sadly, can get overlooked. Don’t make that mistake with Ponzi’s alluring 2023. This mid-weight beauty, with a hint of pear-like nuances, has enough verve to cut through spiced shrimp without a trace of heaviness.… Read more
La Sala del Torriano, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2022 ($24)
Here is an example of why Chianti Classico remains a “go-to” category whether faced with a restaurant’s wine list or when at a retail store. This mid-weight red displays a harmonious balance between fresh red fruit nuances and herbal savory ones.… Read more
Terra Costantino, Etna Bianco (Sicily, Italy) “de Aetna” 2024 ($26)
Fabio Costantino has opted to blend a little Cataratto (15%) and Minella (5%) with the Carricante in his organic Etna Bianco. The result is a crisp and clean white with good weight and a mineral-like rather than a fruity focus. There’s plenty going on here, all supported and amplified by a saline-tinged acidity.… Read more
Conti Costanti, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2021 ($55)
Brunello di Montalcino from Conti Costanti, a top producer there, will run over a hundred dollars at release and take a decade plus of bottle age to show its true stature. But you can get a glimpse of this producer’s talents with their stately Rosso di Montalcino.… Read more
Ornellaia, Toscana (Tuscany, Italy) “Poggio alle Gazze dell’Ornellaia” 2022 ($76)
Poggio alle Gazze, Ornellaia’s dry white wine, initially debuted as a monovarietal Sauvignon Blanc when I tasted the 2008 during a visit to the estate in 2010. Since then, the winemaking team has kept the focus on Sauvignon Blanc but added proportions of Vermentino, Verdicchio, Viognier, and even Semillon in the rendition from 2022.… Read more
Massa Fratelli, Vino Bianco (Piedmont, Italy) Vigneti Massa Timorasso “Derthona” 2022 ($38)
The Italians have a tradition of making great wine, like this one, and labeling it with a lowly or, in this case, no appellation, simply “Vino Bianco.” Well, what a white wine this is! Massa is credited with reviving Piedmont’s nearly extinct Timorasso grape, whose home is the Tortona Hills.… Read more
Fjord Vineyards, Hudson River Region (New York) Cabernet Franc 2024 ($30)
Cabernet Franc is the most widely planted red grape in New York state and is likely to become its signature wine. At a recent tasting in New York City, this variety showed well from all parts of the state, Hudson Valley, Finger Lakes, and Long Island.… Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune Premier Cru Clos des Ursules (Burgundy, France) “Domaine Héritiers des Louis Jadot” 2023 ($122, Kobrand)
Paradoxically, robust yields saved this hot vintage from producing over-the-top wines. With a smaller crop, Frédéric Barnier, Jadot’s technical director, explains that all the vines’ energy would have produced overripe grapes. The dark color of the 2023 predicts the generosity on the palate.… Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune Premier Cru Clos des Ursules (Burgundy, France) “Domaine Héritiers des Louis Jadot” 2017 ($90, Kobrand)
The vintage was panned by many at the outset. Indeed, in 2018, when I tasted the 2017 Clos des Ursules from barrel, I found that it lacked charm. Oh, how it’s blossomed and developed since then! A brick-like color and a hint of leafiness on the nose accurately predict some maturity on the palate.… Read more
Frescobaldi, Chianti DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Castiglioni” 2024 ($15, Vintus)
If there is a more enjoyable and versatile red wine at this price, please, someone tell me. The Frescobaldi family, a Tuscan legend, has been making wine for 700 years. To me, the most impressive aspect of the Frescobaldi portfolio is the quality of their wines across the board, from Masseto, with its near thousand-dollar price tag, to this modestly priced gem.… Read more
Attems, Friuli DOC (Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio “Ramato” 2024 ($21, Vintus)
The Pinot Grigio grape has a pinkish hue to the skin which means the wine can take on a bit of color if the producer opts to keep the skins in contact with the juice for a little time during pressing.… Read more
Louis Michel, Chablis 1er Cru Montmains (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($53)
Montmains is what the Chablisiens refer to as a “flag bearing” Premier Cru vineyard. That means that the less well-known Forêts and Butteaux, neighboring Premier Cru vineyards located on the same hill, can use Montmains, the more well-known name, rather than their own.… Read more
Louis Michel, Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($53)
Although the 2023 and a few 2024 Chablis represent the current releases from that appellation, I draw consumers’ attention to Domaine Louis Michel’s stellar 2022s, which, inexplicably, are still available on retailers’ shelves. This Vaillons and their Montmains (also reviewed this week) show the wonderful diversity of Chablis.… Read more
Langlois, Crémant de Loire (Loire Valley, France) Brut Réserve NV ($29, Vintus)
In 1912, Edouard Langlois and his wife, Jeanne Château, founded the firm of Langlois-Château. Bollinger, of Champagne fame, acquired the company in 1973, which helps explain the consistent success of their Crémant de Loire. A few years ago, they changed the name to simply Langlois to avoid confusion because people kept wondering where the château was!… Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru Aux Cras (Burgundy, France) “Domaine Gagey” 2023 ($70, Kobrand)
Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s venerable producers, is a grower, that is, they own or control vineyards, as well as a négociant. The Domaine Gagey designation at the bottom of the classic Jadot label means that the grapes came from a vineyard owned by the Gagey family, which has run the company since 1962 after the sudden death of Louis Auguste Jadot, who had no heirs.… Read more
Montes, Valle de Colchagua (Chile) Carmenère “Alpha” 2022 ($25)
It seems we don’t see enough of Carmenère in the U.S., even though the grape does so well in Chile, just as its fellow Bordeaux prodigal brother, Malbec, does in Argentina. And, with its 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, it could easily be mistaken for a Left Bank Second Growth Bordeaux wine in taste and style.… Read more
Famille Masse, Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes 2024 ($25, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection)
Roland Masse was the winemaker for the Hospices de Beaune for years, so it’s not surprising that he should have turned out this balanced and engaging Pinot Noir-based Burgundy from the Côte Chalonnaise. As the price shows, once you leave the Côte d’Or, value in Burgundy is not an oxymoron.… Read more
Château Poujeaux, Moulis-en-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2022 ($46)
Château Poujeaux is nestled in Moulis-en-Médoc, set back from the Gironde estuary between the St. Julien and Margaux appellations. Poujeaux is always more affordable than its lauded neighbors and is currently one of the best buys among fine Bordeaux. The wines of Poujeaux benefit from deep, gravelly soils that surround the estate.… Read more
Union des Propriétaires Récoltants Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV ($57, Vineyard Road)
Who says co-ops can’t make great wine? This wine from a co-op, founded in 1937 and based in Mesnil-sur-Oger, arguably Champagne’s most famous village for Chardonnay, will convince any skeptic. Some of Champagne’s most famous wines, Krug’s Clos du Mesnil, the Cuvée Spéciale Les Chétillons of Peirre Péters, and, of course, Salon, all with three- or sometimes four-digit price tags, hail from this village.… Read more
Domaine Sylvain Dussort, Bourgogne Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France) “Cuvée les Ormes” 2022 ($45, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection)
With the prices for Burgundy at ridiculous levels, those 99-percenters of us who love the wines from the region must search wines from less prestigious appellations – like Bourgogne Côte d’Or – that are made by top producers, like Domaine Sylvain Dussort.… Read more
Domaine Sylvain Langoureau, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2024 ($29, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection)
This bargain-priced Chardonnay-based white from the Hautes Côtes supports my opinion that Domaine Sylvain Langoureau is one of the unrecognized stars in Burgundy’s Côte d’Or. The grapes for this beauty come from vineyards above St. Aubin on the way to the village of La Rochepot.… Read more
Domaine Sylvain Langoureau, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune (Burgundy, France) Clos Marc 2024 ($29, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection)
The Hautes Côtes, as they are called, is the current hotspot for affordable Burgundy thanks to climate change. The rustic tannins due to unripe grapes are no longer an inevitable hallmark of wines from there. Based in the Côte d’Or village of Gamay in St.… Read more
Domaine Jean Féry, Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($45)
Firmly established in Échevronne in the Hautes Cotes de Beaune, Domaine Jean Féry, still family run, has been making wine there since 1969. They were early advocates of organic farming, achieving organic certifications for all their vineyards in 2011. They do not receive the recognition they deserve, which is a good thing for consumers because it means their pricing is more reasonable.… Read more
Mosnel, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) “EBB” 2019 ($80)
Founded in 1836 and still family-owned, Mosnel is one of the top producers of Franciacorta which arguably, is Italy’s finest sparkling wine. This vintage-dated beauty, named with the initials of the founder, Emanula Barzanò Barboglio, is simply stunning. Made entirely from organically grown Chardonnay, fermented in oak barrels and aged on the lees for 36 months, it delivers elegance and a wow-factor without heaviness.… Read more
Mosnel, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) ”Parosé” 2019 ($80)
It is hard to decide between Mosnel’s Parosé and their EBB 2019 if you’re splurging on bubbly in defiance of a dry January. You will not be disappointed with either of them! The Parosé, a seamless and lively blend of Pinot Noir (two-thirds) and Chardonnay delivers red fruited power swaddled with finesse.… Read more
Kir Yianni, Florina (Macedonia, Greece) Assyrtiko “The North” 2024 ($24)
The justified popularity of Assyrtiko has meant that producers are growing it outside of its traditional home on Santorini. One of the potential problems when the grape is grown outside of Santorini is that the wine tends to lose some of its delightful punchiness.… Read more
Cloudy Bay, Marlborough (South Island, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($33)
Cloudy Bay is credited with catapulting Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc onto the world’s stage decades ago. Well, it turns out, they haven’t lost the touch over the ensuing decades. The bright and balanced 2022 has the typical tang associated with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc coupled with good depth, so it avoids the pitfall of being a one-trick pony.… Read more
Franco Serra, Langhe Nebbiolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2022 ($19, The Marchetti Company)
Full disclosure: I’m a sucker for Langhe Nebbiolo. For me, it conveys the alluring ying/yang of fruit and savory nuances of Nebbiolo without the need for bottle aging like Barolo or Barbaresco. It is often my go-to category at a restaurant.… Read more
Vara, American “VARAxLG” Brut Blanc de Blancs NV ($40)
Vara calls this their “Signature Series.” The LG in the label stands for Laurent Gruet, who is their sparkling winemaker and who put New Mexico on the map with the exceptional Gruet sparkling wines. Now, having tasted a range of Vara wines, I see why they highlight this one.… Read more
Tenuta Stella, Collio DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Ribolla Gialla 2023 ($27)
Despite its palate weight, Tenuta Stella Ribolla Gialla weighs in at a meager 12 percent stated alcohol, showing that you don’t need super ripe grapes to get richness. Savor this beauty gradually, because it opens as it sits in the glass.… Read more
Cavazza, Colli Berici DOC (Veneto, Italy) Cabernet Sauvignon “Tenuta Cicogna” 2021 ($60)
Unlike this easy-to-appreciate wine, the label needs some unraveling. Cavazza needs no introduction. They are a top producer in the Veneto, based at their estate, Tenuta Cicogna. Despite receiving DOC status more than 50 years ago, the Colli Berici, or the hills of Berici, is not terribly well-known.… Read more