Category Archives: Reviews

Loveblock Vintners, Marlborough (South Island, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Tee” 2022

($22, Terlato Wines International):  The owners of Loveblock Vintners, Erica and Kim Crawford, are certainly no newcomers to New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, having established the very popular Kim Crawford label.  Loveblock Vintners is their new venture, after selling the Kim Crawford brand to Vincor which eventually was gobbled up by Constellation Brands. Read more

Mount Veeder Winery, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2021 

($50):  Mount Veeder Winery, justifiably known for their Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet blends, has released their first Chardonnay — and it’s a resounding success.  Opulent but not overdone, it displays a buttery richness supported by uplifting acidity and energy.  It even displays a welcome hint of bitterness in the finish, reinforcing the sensory impression that it’s not a fruit bomb. Read more

Caprio Cellars, Walla Walla Valley (Washington) “Sanitella” Estate Red Wine 2020

($88):  An unnecessarily heavy bottle forecasts a hefty wine, which it is.  A Cabernet Sauvignon-heavy blend pumped up with Malbec and Merlot, it delivers riper black fruit notes wrapped with suave tannins.  Despite a richer and deeper profile compared to Caprio’s “Eleanor” bottling, it still has an engaging and balancing bitterness in the finish. Read more

Conde Valdemar, Rioja Crianza (Spain) Tempranillo 2018

($20):  It’s hard to beat Rioja for satisfying mid-weight well-priced reds.  Take this delightful example.  Conde Valdemar has made a seamless combination of dark fruitiness touched by a kiss of seductive oak, all enlivened by lip-smacking acidity.  Fine tannins make this bright and fresh beauty great for current drinking with anything from a roast chicken and mushrooms to skirt steak fresh from the grill.Read more

Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France) 2020

($26, Kobrand):  In a word, delicious!  And an extraordinary value.  You rarely see Burgundy of this quality at this price.  Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top producers, takes advantage of a relatively new appellation, Bourgogne Côte d’Or, which means all the grapes came from the famed Côte d’Or part of Burgundy, rather than the region’s less prestigious subzones. Read more

Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) “Celebration” 2020

($63, Kobrand):  Jadot started this unconventional, by Burgundy standards, bottling with the 2009 vintage to celebrate its 150th anniversary.  Contrary to the Burgundy mantra of terroir — a specific delineated location is paramount — Jadot blends wine from upwards of 15 individual premier cru vineyards within Beaune, to produce a wine representative of the best Beaune has to offer (there are no Grand Cru vineyards in Beaune.) Read more

Vino Vasai, Laurelwood District – Chehalem Mountains (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir “Barrel Select” 2021 

($48):  Vino Vasai is Italian for Potter’s Wine and explains why the latter is what you see when you pull the cork.  Bill Sanchez, the winemaker and owner with his wife, Sandy, is a potter.  Sandy explains that they had trouble when they tried to trademark Potter’s Wine, so, given her Italian heritage, they opted to name it in Italian. Read more

Vino Vasai, Laurelwood District – Chehalem Mountains (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Estate Reserve 2021 

($58):  Co-owner Sandy Sanchez, describes the Estate Reserve as their top wine.  Certainly, it’s more concentrated and denser with more apparent oak character compared to their Barrel Select bottling.  At this stage, it’s also has a slighter sweeter profile, presumably from what I assume is more substantial oak aging. Read more

Jean-Marc Burgaud, Beaujolais Villages (Burgundy, France) Beaujolais Lantignié 2021

($19, Thomas Calder Selection):  Normally, wines from the Beaujolais-Villages appellation are a blend of wine from several different villages and do not carry the name of an individual village on the label.  However, French regulations allow producers to indicate the village, Lantignié in this case, on the label if all the grapes came from it. Read more

Te Awanga Estate, Hawke’s Bay (New Zealand) Syrah 2018

($28):  Yes, New Zealand makes distinctive Sauvignon Blanc.  As those late-night television ads proclaim, “but wait, there’s more.”  And indeed, New Zealand produces more than Sauvignon Blanc, including Syrah, as exemplified by this one.  Hawke’s Bay lies on the east coast of the north island and is well suited for reds, such as Syrah and the Bordeaux varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. Read more

Domaine Pélaquié, Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2021

($15, Bowler):  I am reviewing this bargain-priced beauty again for emphasis since I just tasted it again.  This seductive white shows the potential of white wines from the southern Rhône.  A subtle peach-like character merges with a firm minerality.  The combination delights the palate and invigorating acidity in the finish magnifies it charms. Read more

Baron de Ley, Rioja Blanco Reserva (Spain) “Tres Viñas” 2019

($16, Carolina Wine Brands):  Baron de Ley’s white Rioja Reserva has an entirely different — and weightier — profile compared to their regular bottling.  The effects of oak-aging is apparent, but not intrusive.  It adds weight and gravitas without dominating.  Though there is more “oomph” here, it’s not a fruity wine, but paradoxically conveys an attractive austerity and an engaging hint of bitterness in the finish. Read more

Vignerons Laudun Chusclan, Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “Éléments Luna” 2022

($15):  Laudun is an unusual Côte du Rhône Village because it produces a hefty amount of appealing white wines, like this one from the local co-operative.  A versatile wine, this lively mid-weight beauty delivers a hint of white peaches without any heaviness so it would work well as a stand-alone aperitif. Read more