Category Archives: Italy

Valdo, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Brut “Numero 10” 2019

($30, Taub Family Selections): Made using the Metodo Classico (classic method, a.k.a. Champagne method), this Prosecco is, like few — if any — others.  With the classic method, the secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle, a labor-intensive and expensive proposition.  But the results are worth it because the wine develops additional complexity from the yeast and aging. Read more

Luretta, Colli Piacentini DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) Malvasia Aromatica di Candia “Boccadirosa” 2020

($30, USA Wine Imports):  In addition to the innumerable DOCs, the Italians use a mind-boggling number of grapes for their wines, which is another reason the wines from that country are so exciting to explore.  Malvasia Aromatica di Candia had me running to Jancis Robinson’s Wine Grapes, which informed me that although Candia is an old name for Crete, there is no genetic evidence that is originated on that Greek Island. Read more

Luretta, Gutturnio Superiore DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) 2018

($25, USA Wine Imports):  One of the exciting and bewildering things about Italian wines is the ever-increasing number of DOCs that sprout like mushrooms after a rain. Gutturnio Superiore is a new one to me.  Formerly a part of the Colli Piacentini, another DOC I’ve heard of but could not find on a map, Gutturnio is the northwest part of Emilia Romagna, bordering both Piedmont and Lombardy, which may explain the grapes, Barbera and Croatina, used in this wine. Read more

Cecchi, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Riserva di Famiglia” 2015

($32, Terlato Wines International):  Cecchi’s Chianti Classico Riserva, unsurprisingly, is bigger and more powerful than their 2019 regular (annata) bottling.  Weighing in at 14 percent stated alcohol, it has more power, yet retains elegance.  The wood is still showing at this stage, but from my experience with their wines, it will become better integrated after another year or so in the bottle. Read more

Mauro Veglio, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2018

($45):  This family-owned firm makes a range of Barolo from four of the important vineyards or cru in the DOCG and this one, made from grapes grown in La Morra and Monforte d’Alba where they also have vineyards.  It’s a masterful blend that shows the value of the tradition of blending from throughout the Barolo DOCG versus the more recent trend towards single vineyard bottling. Read more

Marchesi di Barolo, Barbera d’Asti (Piedmont, Italy) “Peiragal” 2018

($27, Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd.):  In 1980, Ernesto, the patriarch of the family, either foolishly or prophetically planted Barbera in the Paiagallo vineyard, one of Barolo’s top vineyards for Nebbiolo.  Valentina, his daughter, recounted that her father replaced the more valuable Nebbiolo vines with Barbera, even though he realized it was not in his economic interest. Read more

Ferrari, TrentoDOC (Trentino, Italy) “Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore” 2008

($143, Taub Family Selections):  There is no better Italian sparkling wine producer than Ferrari.  Their entire line-up is Metodo Classico, that is, made with a secondary fermentation performed in the bottle, similar to the process in Champagne.  Everything from their non-vintage blends to their mono-variety Chardonnays (also known as blanc de blancs) is consistently excellent and puts a smile on your face. Read more

Tenuta Carretta, Roero Arneis Riserva DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Canorei” 2017

($27):  Canorei is Carretta’s oldest vineyard.  They vinify and then age their best grapes from this vineyard in oak barrels.  The oak influence is still apparent in this 2017, but the alluring stone fruit aroma of Arneis still comes through.  The oak, and perhaps the age of the vines, add opulence and weight that some consumers will find appealing. Read more

Tenuta Regaleali, Sicilia DOC (Italy) Catarratto “Buonsenso 2020″

($19, Winebow):  Tasca d’Almerita family owns Tenuta Regaleali, a great and reliable name for Sicilian wine.  They have transformed Catarratto, another autochthonous grape, into a fleshy and cutting wine.  (Soon Catarratto will be called Lucido, after one of its clones, for marketing reasons because the Sicilians believe it is easier for foreigners — mainland Italians included — to pronounce.) Read more

Planeta, Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG (Sicily, Italy) 2019

($19, Taub Family Selections):  Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s only DOCG wine, is a blend of Nero d’Avola and Frapatto, two of Sicily’s autochthonous grapes.  Planeta’s is simply marvelous.  Refined, it delivers a balanced combination of minerals and cherry-like fruit.  Weighing in at a modest 13 percent stated alcohol, it is not particularly opulent, but it is particularly penetrating. Read more

Tenuta Carretta, Barbaresco Riserva DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Cascina Bordino” 2015

($55, Consortium Wine and Spirits Imports):  With prices of Barolo and Barbaresco going higher and higher, this wine should be on every Piedmont-lovers list.  Its relative bargain status — I hate to call a $55 wine a bargain, but it is — could be due to the 2015 vintage, an excellent year overshadowed by the hype justifiably afforded the 2016s. Read more