Anselmet, Vallée d’Aoste DOC (Italy) Chardonnay “Mains et Coeur” 2019

($64):  The team at Anselmet clearly thinks this is an important wine — heavy bottle, heavy wax seal that makes uncorking difficult.  But this Chardonnay is worth the effort.  It is a remarkably well-balanced of delicate fruitiness and minerality.  There is an uplifting saline-like savoriness in the finish.  It has stature.  By that I mean when you take another sip, you pause, take note, and are amazed by it all over again.  It is graceful, persistent, and penetrating.  The bottle may be heavy.  The wine is not.
94 Michael Apstein Apr 12, 2022