Cobue, Lugana DOC (Lombardy, Italy) “Monte Lupo” 2020

($12):  Lugana, a DOC on the southern shore of Lake Garda in Northern Italy, is a name to remember for white wines.  The primary grape is Turbiana, also known as Trebbiano di Lugana.  Locals prefer Turbiana, the historical name, to dissociate it from the mostly down-market family of varieties and grape strains associated with the Trebbiano name.  And indeed, DNA analysis shows Turbiana to be identical to the very upscale Verdicchio grape.  Lugana is a piece of the Mediterranean in northern Italy, replete with lemon and olive trees.  So, perhaps it’s not surprising that the wines can be reminiscent of Rhône Valley whites with stone fruit character, but with far better, and bracing, acidity.  Cobue buttresses depth with freshness and alluring spice, imbuing the wine with a real presence.  An appealing salinity appears in the finish.  This is not some innocuous Trebbiano, but rather a white with character.  Drink it this summer.
93 Michael Apstein Mar 15, 2022