Category Archives: Italy – Other

Cantine Leonardo da Vinci, Pignoletto Spumante DOC (Emilia-Romagna, Italy) “1502″ 2018

($20):  Cantine Leonardo da Vinci, a large Tuscan-based cooperative, makes this delightful sparkling wine from the Pignoletto grape, not one that is widely known outside of central Italy.  Its inherently high acidity makes it a good choice for bubbly because growers can let it ripen, allowing its exuberant floral and fruity character to shine, without it becoming sappy or flabby. Read more

Chianti Classico: The Times They are A-Changing

With apologies to Bob Dylan, “The Times They are A-Changing” in Chianti Classico.  Three decades ago, producers were embracing the use of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and other so-called “international varieties,” to bolster Sangiovese.  But now, with dramatic improvements in the vineyards, growers have shown the heights that Sangiovese can achieve in Chianti Classico. Read more

Nizza: A New Italian DOCG Worth Remembering

The history of the official alphabet of stratification of Italian wines–VdT, IGT, DOC, or DOCG (Vino da Tavola, Indicazione Geografica Tipica, Denominazione di Origine Controllata, and Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita)–does not inspire confidence.  When Sassicaia, now an iconic Italian wine, was first released, it barely registered on the official scale, being relegated to a lowly VdT designation. Read more

Medici Ermete, Reggiano Lambrusco DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) “i Quercioli” NV

($12, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):   Lambrusco is making a dramatic comeback, judging from restaurants in New York City and elsewhere.  Diligence and persistence by producers such as Medici Ermete has shown the world the joys of Lambrusco.  An equal blend of Lambrusco Marani and Lambrusco Salamino, i Quercioli is a faintly fizzy, dark, almost purple, red wine with a delicate sweetness and gripping acidity. Read more

Girlan, Alto Adige/ Südtirol (Italy) Lagrein 2012

($20, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): The name of the DOC — either Alto Adige or Südtirol — reflects the dual identity of this part of northern Italy, which abuts Austria.  But this is a singularly appealing wine.  Lagrein, not a well-known grape, should have more widespread popularity because it can produce a reasonably robust wine devoid of searing tannins and balanced by uplifting acidity. Read more

Fontodi, IGT Colli Toscana Centrale (Italy) “Flaccianello della Pieve” 2010

($120, Vinifera Imports): Flaccianello is the flagship wine from Fontodi, a superb producer located in the Conca d’Oro (the golden shell) or heart of the Chianti Classico region.  This pure Sangiovese beauty comes from their best grapes.  Giovanni Manetti says they look for the smallest bunches, usually found on the vines at the top of their vineyards, that provide a better ratio of skin to juice. … Read more

Castello Banfi, IGP Toscana (Italy) “Cum Laude” 2010

($33, Banfi Imports): Castello Banfi, one of the top producers of Brunello di Montalcino, also makes excellent wines from outside of that revered DOCG zone.  This one, a blend of Cabernet, Merlot, Sangiovese, and Syrah, clearly nods toward the “modern” style with lush red and black fruit flavors, but still has an complementary and intriguing Brunello-like dark, earthy, almost chocolaty component. … Read more

Abruzzo on the Rise

If you are looking for wines that deliver more than their price suggests (and who isn’t during these economic times?), it pays to learn about Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, an intense red wine that stands up to the flavorful, chili-laden Abruzzi cuisine.

These wines often have a rustic side, which can be appealing, but when not controlled can impart wild ‘horsey’ flavors. … Read more