($23, Divino International Wine and Spirit):
The name of the wine, “51,151”, refers to a cycling record that Francesco Moser set in Mexico City in 1984, according to their website. This 100 percent Chardonnay base bubbly is, indeed, racy (pun intended), but the elegance imparted by that grape shows, making for a lovely balance. … Read more
Category Archives: Italy – Other
Cantine Leonardo da Vinci, Pignoletto Spumante DOC (Emilia-Romagna, Italy) “1502″ 2018
($20):
Cantine Leonardo da Vinci, a large Tuscan-based cooperative, makes this delightful sparkling wine from the Pignoletto grape, not one that is widely known outside of central Italy. Its inherently high acidity makes it a good choice for bubbly because growers can let it ripen, allowing its exuberant floral and fruity character to shine, without it becoming sappy or flabby. … Read more
Peter Zemmer, Alto Adige – Südtirol DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2018
($15, HB Wine Merchants):
Pinot Grigio spans the spectrum from innocuous or insipid to charming and noteworthy. Peter Zemmer’s is definitely in the latter group. An immediately captivating floral sensation predicts enjoyment. It has remarkable depth and persistence for a category that is all too often fleeting and bland. … Read more
Bisol, Prosecco (Italy) “Jeio” Brut NV
($14, Wilson Daniels):
Prosecco has become so popular that its name has become synonymous with sparkling wine, replacing “Champagne” as that moniker. For example, on a recent flight when I requested a sparkling wine, I was offered a “Prosecco,” which turned out to be a Cava. … Read more
Principe Corsini, Vino Spumante (Italy) Brut Rosé NV

($23): It seems that everyone wants to get in on the rosé craze. Here we have a top Tuscan producer, well-known for their stunning Chianti Classico, making a bubbly from Sangiovese. It works. This bright and fresh rosé bubbly delivers delicate hints of strawberries. … Read more
Chianti Classico: The Times They are A-Changing
With apologies to Bob Dylan, “The Times They are A-Changing” in Chianti Classico. Three decades ago, producers were embracing the use of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and other so-called “international varieties,” to bolster Sangiovese. But now, with dramatic improvements in the vineyards, growers have shown the heights that Sangiovese can achieve in Chianti Classico. … Read more
Casata Monfort, Trento (Trento-Alto Adige, Italy) Riserva 2011
($50): Consumers mistakenly believe that all bubbly coming from Italy is Prosecco. Not so. There’s fine sparkling wine from Franciacorta and this stunning one reminds us not to forget Trento. A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the traditional grapes of Champagne, it has a fine bead of acidity that gives it a great spine.… Read more
Ca’Rugate, Monte Fiorentine, Soave, Classico, Soave, 2016
Drinking Window: 2018 – 2023I Stefanini, Monte di Fice, Soave, Classico, Soave, 2016
Drinking Window: 2018 – 2023Assuli, Terre Siciliane IGT (Italy) Nero d’Avola “Besi” 2014
($18):
Enter a different style of Nero d’Avola. Assuli’s emphasizes the fruitier side of the grape. At 14.5 percent stated alcohol, it is riper and more lush, with fewer savory notes than the Nero d’Avola from Barone Sergio (also reviewed this week). … Read more
Nizza: A New Italian DOCG Worth Remembering
The history of the official alphabet of stratification of Italian wines–VdT, IGT, DOC, or DOCG (Vino da Tavola, Indicazione Geografica Tipica, Denominazione di Origine Controllata, and Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita)–does not inspire confidence. When Sassicaia, now an iconic Italian wine, was first released, it barely registered on the official scale, being relegated to a lowly VdT designation. … Read more
Medici Ermete, Colli Scandiano e Canossa DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) Malvasia Vino Frizzante Secco “Daphne” 2016
($18, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): This is labeled Vino Frizzante Secco, which means slightly bubbly and dry. But it’s not really dry. It is aromatic, reminiscent of Moscato, but with more weight. Great acidity keeps it fresh and lively, so it doesn’t come across as cloying despite the light sweetness. … Read more
Donnafugata, Passito di Pantelleria DOC (Italy) “Ben Ryè” 2015
($35): Baldo Palermo, a representative of Donnafugata, described the island of Pantelleria as, “A volcanic rock jutting from the sea,” where the major activity is “listening to the wind.” Hence it’s appropriate that this wine is called Ben Ryè, which means son of the wind. … Read more
Medici Ermete, Reggiano Lambrusco DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) “i Quercioli” NV
($12, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Lambrusco is making a dramatic comeback, judging from restaurants in New York City and elsewhere. Diligence and persistence by producers such as Medici Ermete has shown the world the joys of Lambrusco. An equal blend of Lambrusco Marani and Lambrusco Salamino, i Quercioli is a faintly fizzy, dark, almost purple, red wine with a delicate sweetness and gripping acidity. … Read more
Medici Ermete, Reggiano Lambrusco DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) “Concerto” 2016
($20, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Medici Ermete takes Lambrusco seriously, and it shows with the quality of their wines. This one, named Concerto, is the first single vineyard Lambrusco produced. It’s made entirely from Lambrusco Salamino grown on their Rampata estate. … Read more
The ‘Cru’ of Soave: Another Attempt to Resurrect the Region
Soave, one of Italy’s great white wines, has an image problem, and, as a result, it gets no respect. Although I’m sure that must be frustrating for the producers, it’s a boon for consumers: The wines can be excellent but their prices fail to reflect their quality. … Read more
Attems, Venezia Giulia IGT (Italy) Pinot Grigio “Ramato” 2015
($18, Folio Fine Wine Partners): At first blush — no pun intended — you’d think this wine was a marketing genius, encompassing two very hot wine categories: Pinot Grigio and Rosé. But no, the pink — actually copper hue — of the wine comes from the light red color of the skins of the Pinot Grigio grape. … Read more
Lugana: The Perfect Summertime White
With their crispness and cutting acidity, the refreshing wines of Lugana, a small Denominazione Origine Controllata (DOC) on the southern edge of Lake Garda in northern Italy’s Lake District, are perfect for drinking in the summer–or year round for that matter. … Read more
Giovanna Madonia, Romagna Albana Secco DOCG (Italy) “Neblina” 2014
($19):
This category of wine grabbed headlines in 1987, more because of surprise than stature, when it was awarded Italy’s first DOCG for a white wine. Known then as Albana di Romagna, there was a collective bewilderment since many other white wine DOCs seemed more appropriate for elevation to Italy’s highest level of classification. … Read more
Fontana Candida, Frascati Superiore DOCG Riserva (Lazio, Italy) “Luna Mater” 2012
($23, Banfi Vintners):
Fontana Candida’s Luna Mater will transform your image of Frascati, typically a light refreshing, but otherwise undistinguished, white wine. Well, Luna Mater is certainly distinguished. It’s not just more concentrated than the usual Frascati — though it is. … Read more
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Toscana IGT (Italy) “Poggio alle Gazze” 2014
($65, Folio Fine Wines): Ornellaia’s white wines fly under the radar because their red wines are so outstanding. That situation won’t last for long. Poggio alle Gazze is an unconventional blend of roughly two-thirds Sauvignon Blanc with Vermentino, Verdicchio and Viognier. … Read more
Casale Falchini, Toscana IGT (Italy) “Paretaio” 2011
($25): A steal. Let me repeat — this wine is a steal. Falchini is perhaps best known for their lovely Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Vigna a Solatio, which at $13, is another steal, but that’s another story. Their Paretaio, a Super Tuscan in everything but the price, could easily become their calling card. … Read more
Allegrini, Veronese IGT (Italy) Palazzo della Torre 2011
($18): Allegrini, a leading Veneto producer, has adapted Amarone-like vinification to this wine, a blend of mostly Corvina and Rondinella, the grapes commonly used for Valpolicella. A small proportion of grapes are dried and added to the fresh wine the following fall, which starts another fermentation, which adds extra oomph to the wine. … Read more
Agricola Querciabella, IGT Toscana (Italy) “Camartina” 2010
($140):
Founded only in 1974, Querciabella has leapt to the top tier of Tuscan producers, making an exceptional range of both red and white wines. Camartina, a blend of roughly 2/3 Cabernet Sauvignon and 1/3 Sangiovese, is their flagship red. It’s always a majestic wine, but the 2010 is even more extraordinary than usual. … Read more
Girlan, Alto Adige/ Südtirol (Italy) Pinot Bianco 2014
($20, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): This clean and fresh Pinot Blanc conveys a lovely delicacy, but has sufficient weight — and a subtle creaminess — to complement a light pasta course. Its floral and lacey character also makes it a perfect choice as either a stand-alone aperitif.… Read more
Girlan, Alto Adige/ Südtirol (Italy) Lagrein 2012
($20, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): The name of the DOC — either Alto Adige or Südtirol — reflects the dual identity of this part of northern Italy, which abuts Austria. But this is a singularly appealing wine. Lagrein, not a well-known grape, should have more widespread popularity because it can produce a reasonably robust wine devoid of searing tannins and balanced by uplifting acidity. … Read more
Monteverro, IGT Toscana (Italy) Vermentino di Monteverro 2014
($25, Opici Wines):
Monteverro, a relatively new player in Bolgheri sweepstakes, is aiming to join the Ornellaia and Sassicaia Super Tuscan club with their red wine. So it came as a great surprise to see the quality of this white. Their 2014 Vermentino is crisp, with an enticing floral whiff. … Read more
Ferrari, Trentino DOC (Italy) Blanc de Blancs “Perlé” 2007
($42, Palm Bay International): Ferrari is one of, if not the, top producer of sparkling wine in Trentino. This splendid one, Perlé, is made entirely from Chardonnay grown in a single vineyard. A firm backbone of acidity supports and balances its suave creaminess. … Read more
Monteverro, IGT Toscana Rosso (Italy) “Terra di Monteverro” 2011
($60, Opici Imports): Terra di Monteverro is the second wine of Monteverro. Though it’s a similar blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, the components have been selected because they are less structured and more accessible. Since the blend is less dense, it also undergoes less oak aging. … Read more
Montenidoli, Toscana Rosso IGT (Italy) “Sono Montenidoli” 2007
($55, Artisans Wines, Inc.):
Since Montenidoli is one of the star producers of Vernaccia di San Gimignano, their red wines, such as this IGT Toscana, are often overlooked. That’s a mistake, since this one, labeled redundantly Sono Montenidoli for emphasis, is a sleeper of a Super Tuscan. … Read more
Tascante, Sicilia IGT (Italy) “Ghiaia Nera” 2012
($22, Dalla Terra Direct):
Tascante is the name of the Mount Etna project of Tasca d’Almerita, one of the locomotives that have brought Sicilian wines to the world’s attention. (The name is an amalgamation of Tasca appended to Etna, spelled backwards.) … Read more
Why Are Italian Wines So Popular?
Italian wine has always been popular in the U.S., and today accounts for a staggering one out of every three bottles imported into this country. … Read more
Cantina Mesa, IGT Isola dei Nuraghi (Italy) “Buio Buio” 2010
($20, Montcalm Wine Importers): Made from the Carignano del Sulcis grape, the local name for Carignan grown in the Sulcis region of southwestern Sardinia, Buio Buio is a name to remember. For a vigorous and robust red, it has surprising finesse. … Read more
Alois Lageder, IGT Vignetti delle Dolomiti (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2013
($16, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Alois Lageder, one of the Alto Adige’s greatest producers, makes a host of stunning single vineyard wines. They also make lower priced wines, like this one, from grapes grown in a broader area that still transmit the character of the variety and the region. … Read more
Cantina Terlano, Terlaner Classico Alto Adige (Alto Adige, Italy) 2013
($25, Banville & Jones Wine Merchants): Terlano, the name of the co-op formed in 1860, is also the name of the town, which can lead to some confusion. There’s nothing confusing about the wine, however. This harmonious blend of Pinot Bianco (60%), Chardonnay (30%) and Sauvignon Blanc combines richness with vibrancy. … Read more
Attems, Venezia Giulia IGT (Italy) Pinot Grigio “Ramato” 2012
($18, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Despite its copper hue, Attems’ Pinot Grigio is not a rosé. Indeed, it is among the few renditions of Pinot Grigio that have an ever-so-slightly rusty pink color to them because the grape itself is pink skinned. … Read more
Attems, IGP Venezia Giulia (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2013
($17, Folio Fine Wine Partners): This wine explains the popularity of Pinot Grigio. Subtle floral quality and hint of peachiness all supported and amplified by a zingy backbone. This is the real thing. A versatile wine, it’s well suited as a stand-alone aperitif or, because of its depth, as an accompaniment to grilled striped bass or similar seafood. … Read more
Tenuta Perolla, IGP Toscana (Italy) Vermentino 2012
($12, San Felice, USA): San Felice, one of Tuscany’s great red wine producers, also makes this vibrant white from mostly (85%) Vermentino. A touch of Sauvignon Blanc makes it even more energetic. It’s a thoughtful blend because the combination of its lively character and depth make it an ideal accompaniment for simple summer seafood. … Read more
Age-Worthy Italian White Wine is not an Oxymoron
Livio Felluga’s Terre Alte redefines Italian white wine for me. Andrea Felluga, the current winemaker and general manager of the family-run firm, was recently in New York and led a vertical tasting of eight vintages
of Terre Alte, spanning 15 years, back to 1997, that showed how magnificently this white wine developed with bottle age.… Read more
Castello Banfi, Toscana IGT (Italy) Cum Laude 2010
($37, Banfi Vintners): Castello Banfi, best known for its stunning Brunello di Montalcino, also produces an array of “Super Tuscan” wines, one of which is Cum Laude, an unconventional blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese and Syrah. The 2010 Cum Laude may be their best ever. … Read more
Mionetto, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Italy) “Luxury” Extra Dry NV
($20): Mionetto, one of Prosecco’s leading producers, bottles a number of different ones. This one, an Extra-Dry — which paradoxically means it’s not the driest — is delicate and lacey. Slightly rounder than a Brut, it nonetheless has a refreshing crispness and green apple-like flavors. … Read more
Castello Banfi, IGT Toscana (Italy) “Belnero” 2010
($25, Banfi Imports):
Castello Banfi, one of the leading producers Brunello di Montalcino, introduced Belnero a few years ago. It is composed almost exclusively of Sangiovese, though small amounts of “international varieties” are included in the blend. It has gotten better and better over the years. … Read more
Fontodi, IGT Colli Toscana Centrale (Italy) “Flaccianello della Pieve” 2010
($120, Vinifera Imports):
Flaccianello is the flagship wine from Fontodi, a superb producer located in the Conca d’Oro (the golden shell) or heart of the Chianti Classico region. This pure Sangiovese beauty comes from their best grapes. Giovanni Manetti says they look for the smallest bunches, usually found on the vines at the top of their vineyards, that provide a better ratio of skin to juice. … Read more
Castello Banfi, IGP Toscana (Italy) “Cum Laude” 2010
($33, Banfi Imports): Castello Banfi, one of the top producers of Brunello di Montalcino, also makes excellent wines from outside of that revered DOCG zone. This one, a blend of Cabernet, Merlot, Sangiovese, and Syrah, clearly nods toward the “modern” style with lush red and black fruit flavors, but still has an complementary and intriguing Brunello-like dark, earthy, almost chocolaty component. … Read more
Negroamaro: Black & Bitter from Italy’s Heel
“Black and bitter.” It certainly wasn’t a name create by a public relations firm. To be fair, Luigi Rubino, President of the Puglia Best Wine Consortium points out the name really means “black and black” from both the Latin (negro) and Greek (amaro) for black. … Read more
Ornellaia: An Italian Icon, Part 2
As Axel Heinz, the winemaker at Ornellaia, pointed out, luck played a role in Ornellaia’s success. It was lucky that Lodovico Antinori, Ornellaia’s founder, went to California in search of vineyards because it was there that he met André Tchelistcheff, Beaulieu Vineyards’ legendary winemaker. … Read more
Ornellaia: An Italian Icon
“It was luck,” according to Axel Heinz, the winemaker at Ornellaia, that accounted for the extraordinarily rapid ascent of Ornellaia in the eyes of the world. “It was lucky that Mario Incisa della Rocchetta [owner of Sassicaia] planted Bordeaux varieties when [in the 1940s] and where he did [Bolgheri]. … Read more
Brunello di Montalcino 2.0
In preparation for my attendance at Benvenuto Brunello, the annual tasting of the newly released 2005 Brunello di Montalcino, held in that Tuscan hilltop town, I did some homework by opening and drinking some from my cellar—a 2001 La Gerla, a 1999 Fulgini, a 1998 Banfi Poggio alle Mura, and a 1997 Banfi Poggio all’Oro.… Read more
Italy’s Soave region split over DOCG label
Italy – Everything should be coming up roses for Soave. The wines, historically among Italy’s best whites, have never been better.
Yet a debate over whether to use a new designation, Superiore DOCG, threatens to spoil the renaissance of a region that has finally recovered from a long spell as a source of underwhelming wine.… Read more
Abruzzo on the Rise
If you are looking for wines that deliver more than their price suggests (and who isn’t during these economic times?), it pays to learn about Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, an intense red wine that stands up to the flavorful, chili-laden Abruzzi cuisine.
These wines often have a rustic side, which can be appealing, but when not controlled can impart wild ‘horsey’ flavors. … Read more