($60, Marc de Grazia Selection): I was unfamiliar with this producer until recently when I had the opportunity to taste a range of their wines at a tasting in Boston put on by their importer. Now, I’ll buy anything they make. … Read more
Category Archives: Italy
Fratelli Revello, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Gattera” 2010
($52, Marc de Grazia Selection): Similar to many other Barolo producers, Fratelli Revello made more than one Barolo in 2010, which creates a potentially confusing situation for consumers. This one, Gattera, is from a single vineyard in La Morra and is aged in large old barrels. … Read more
M. Marengo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Brunate” 2010
($62, Marc de Grazia Selection): Barolo experts and aficionados agree that Brunate, a vineyard than spans both communes of Barolo and La Morra, is one of the top spots in the Barolo DOCG. Marengo owns about 3 acres of this 62-acre vineyard and from it they have produced an irresistible wine in 2010. … Read more
M. Marengo, Barbera d’Alba (Piedmont, Italy) Vigneto Pugnane 2012
($25, Marc de Grazia Selection): The Pugnane vineyard located in Castiglione Faletto, one of the important communes of Barolo, is usually planted with Nebbiolo because the grape planted in that locale makes exemplary Barolo. Marco Marengo says the vineyard is also well suited for Barbera. … Read more
Monteverro, IGT Toscana Rosso (Italy) “Terra di Monteverro” 2011
($60, Opici Imports): Terra di Monteverro is the second wine of Monteverro. Though it’s a similar blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, the components have been selected because they are less structured and more accessible. Since the blend is less dense, it also undergoes less oak aging. … Read more
Vasco Sassetti, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($60): Vasco Sassetti made a powerful brooding Brunello in 2010 that conveys a healthy dose of dark minerality and earthiness that balances its ripeness. Despite its power, this is a fresh and lively wine. An attractive black cherry skin subtle bitterness reinforces the seriousness of this Brunello. … Read more
Col D’Orcia, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($43): Col D’Orcia, one of the top producers of Brunello di Montalcino, made a stunning Rosso di Montalcino in 2010. It’s not surprising since 2010 was truly a great vintage for the region and Col D’Orcia has always embraced the second wine of the region. … Read more
Monteverro, IGT Toscana Rosso (Italy) “Monteverro” 2011
($150, Opici Imports): Monteverro, who just planted their first vines in 2004, is aiming to enter the elite three digit price club of the Super Tuscans, led by Ornellaia and Sassicaia. They are located, like those two icons, in Maremma, though in a warmer area about 100 south of them. … Read more
Sesti, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($55): The vast range of Brunello I tasted at Benvenuto Brunello, the annual event in Montalcino at which the Brunello producers show their soon-to-be-released new vintage, convinced me that 2010 is one the truly great vintages for that DOCG. In my view, Brunello lovers cannot have too many 2010s in their cellars. … Read more
La Lastra, Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($15): La Lastra is one of leading producers of Vernaccia di San Gimignano, an often-overlooked DOCG. With its cutting edge and slightly nutty finish, La Lastra’s 2013 could be the poster child for the appellation. This bright and energetic wine is perfect for linguine and clam sauce or simple broiled fish.… Read more
Querciabella, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($32, Maison Marques & Domaines): Querciabella, one of the stellar producers in the Chianti Classico region, does not rest on their laurels. They are in the process of making Chianti Classico from several of the subregions of that DOCG, which will give consumers an opportunity, at long last, to discern the differences among the areas in the Chianti Classico region since the winemaking will be constant. … Read more
Castello di Verrazzano, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($23): A traditional producer, Verrazzano uses only Sangiovese and Canaiolo for their Chianti Classico, reserving Cabernet and Merlot, the so-called international varieties, for their Super Tuscan bottling. Their powerful style is readily apparent with this 2012 Chianti Classico. Despite its concentration, the wine is balanced with an interplay of dark cherry-like fruit and savory elements all enlivened by refreshing acidity. … Read more
Antinori, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) “Pian delle Vigne” 2010
($62): It should come as no surprise that Antinori, who, as much as anyone, is responsible for the quality of Tuscan wines, should produce an outstanding Brunello. They certainly have with their 2010 Pian delle Vigne. Lofty aromatics predict an exciting wine. … Read more
Poggio di Sotto, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($160): Poggio di Sotto, one of the region’s traditional producers, made one of the top wines of the vintage in 2010. Though not a powerhouse, there’s plenty going on in Poggio di Sotto’s 2010 Brunello. The first whiff tells you it’s something special. … Read more
Bolla, Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso (Veneto, Italy) “La Poiane” 2011
($15, Banfi): Valpolicella is often considered a not terribly substantial light red wine. This wine erases that image. Think of Bolla’s La Poiane as a Valpolicella on steroids. The grapes come from the best area of Valpolicella (Classico) and have attained better ripeness (Superiore). … Read more
Castello Banfi, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($22, Banfi): Rosso di Montalcino, often dubbed “Baby Brunello,” gives consumers a glimmer of the grandeur of the more prestigious appellation at a more affordable price. And, unlike Brunello itself, wines carrying the Rosso di Montalcino name are ready to drink upon release.… Read more
Castello di Fonterutoli, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($14): Castello di Fonterutoli’s 2013 Chianti Classico is a riper and fleshier rendition, without going over the top. It’s a very clean and pure expression of Chianti Classico with an attractive succulence in the finish. Freshness in the finish holds it all together. … Read more
Castello di Ama, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($19): Castello di Ama, a top producer of Chianti Classico, make a splendid range of wines from this one, to their Chianti Classico Riserva to their Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. This 2013 is a traditionally framed Chianti Classico that conveys a mixture of dark slightly bitter cherries and a savory earthiness. … Read more
Máté, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($45): Máté, a relative newcomer to Montalcino being founded in the 1990s, made a stellar Brunello in 2010. Powerful, without being overdone, their 2010 is more fruit forward and accessible than many of the other Brunello from the 2010 vintage. A dark core of minerality balances and enhances the ripe dark cherry fruit favors. … Read more
Mocali, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($40): Mocali made it into my list of top Brunello of 2010 with its impressive aromatics and gorgeous initial impact of dried and ripe fresh cherries offset by dense dark minerality. A lovely firmness and hint of bitterness round out this beautifully balanced wine. … Read more
Mastrojanni, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($60): Mastrojanni’s 2010 Brunello, one of the top wines of the vintage, has gorgeous power balanced by suave elegance. An engaging floral aspect suggests greatness. What follows doesn’t disappoint. Polished, almost sweet, tannins surround a core of dark earthy minerality. Succulent dark black cherry-like flavors emerge with time. … Read more
Lisini, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($60): No doubt I will say more than once that the 2010 vintage for Brunello is outstanding — as good as it gets. Lisini, a traditional producer who rarely falters, made one of the star wines of the vintage. With an enormous initial aromatic impact, their 2010 delivers an alluring combination of flavors — earth and cherries — wrapped in firm, but polished, tannins. … Read more
Caiarossa, IGP Maremma (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($85): The 2010 Caiarossa, an extraordinary wine and the best from this estate since its commercial debut with the 2004 vintage, shows how far this producer has come in a very short time. Owned by same Dutch family who own the Margaux classified growths Château Giscours and Château du Tertre, and whose general manager, Alexander Van Beek, runs those two Bordeaux properties, Caiarossa uses a seeming mishmash of grapes — Bordeaux varieties, Syrah and even Alicante — to make this impressive Super Tuscan. … Read more
Castello di Uzzano, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($18): The wines from Castello di Uzzano always show well at the comprehensive tasting of Chianti Classico held in Florence every year. They use only Sangiovese — Cabernet need not apply — for their Chianti Classico and avoid small oak barrels to allow the flavors of the region to shine. … Read more
Castellare di Castellina, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($20, Winebow): Castellare di Castellina, one of my favorite Tuscan producers, succeeded again with their 2013 Chianti Classico. Not gussied up with new oak or Cabernet Sauvignon, Castellare di Castellina sticks with traditional techniques to produce an easy-to-recommend wine replete with herbal and earthy flavors that offset and complement its bright cherry signature. … Read more
Isole e Olena, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($25): Paolo de Marchi, who, along with his family, owns Isole e Olena, and is responsible for the wines, is a thoughtful, ever-questioning man who makes exceptional wines. Rare, perhaps unique, in the region, he makes no Chianti Classico Riserva — only this one and his Super Tuscan, Cepparello, which is made entirely from Sangiovese and which is truly super. … Read more
G. D. Vajra, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Ravera 2010
($68): Vajra’s Ravera comes from the Barolo commune (subzone) where the two different soil types of the Barolo DOCG meet. Hence, experts say that wines from this area are the most complete Barolo because, reflecting both soils, they exhibit both power and grace. … Read more
Luigi Baudana, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Cerretta 2010
($80): The Baudana family owns a small, 10-acre estate comprised of prized vineyards in Serralunga d’Alba, a subzone of the Barolo DOCG known for powerful wines. Since 2009, G. D. Vajra, small but one of Barolo’s top producers, has been responsible for tending the vineyards and making the wines. … Read more
Carussin, Barbera d’Asti (Piedmont, Italy) “Asinoi” 2013
($17, The Vine Collective): Carussin, a family run estate founded in 1927, focuses on Barbera. This one — Asinoi, an illusion to donkeys, which they also raise — is a blend from four of their vineyards. Despite its fruit-filled profile and its concentration, it’s neither sweet nor jammy. … Read more
Carussin, Barbera d’Asti (Piedmont, Italy) Lie Vi 2013
($20, The Vine Collective): Carussin’s Barbera labeled Lie Vi shows the importance of old vines. From a single vineyard whose vines average about 40 years, it delivers more purity, complexity and depth without losing any of the energy of their regular — Asinoi — bottling. … Read more
Montenidoli, Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Tuscany, Italy) “Carato” 2009
($32, Artisans Wines, Inc.): Carato, another Vernaccia di San Gimignano from the exemplary producer Montenidoli, is fermented and aged for a year in barrel before bottling. The winemaking here is so precise that you don’t taste woodiness. Rather, you feel the effect of wood on the wine — it’s a fuller, richer version of Vernaccia di San Gimignano that retains finesse and vigor. … Read more
Montenidoli, Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Tuscany, Italy) “Fiore” 2012
($25, Artisans Wines, Inc.): Montenidoli is one of the very best producers of Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Anyone who has been disappointed by this category of Italian white should taste their wines to see how grand this DOCG can be. Montenidoli makes three Vernaccia di San Gimignano; this one, made from free-run juice and labeled Fiore (flower) is, indeed, floral, fresh and clean. … Read more
Montenidoli, Toscana Rosso IGT (Italy) “Sono Montenidoli” 2007
($55, Artisans Wines, Inc.): Since Montenidoli is one of the star producers of Vernaccia di San Gimignano, their red wines, such as this IGT Toscana, are often overlooked. That’s a mistake, since this one, labeled redundantly Sono Montenidoli for emphasis, is a sleeper of a Super Tuscan. … Read more
Badia a Coltibuono, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($34, Dalla Terra Direct): Since the 2010 vintage was superb in Chianti Classico and Badia a Coltibuono is one of the star producers in that region, it is not surprising that this wine is stellar. Not boisterous, this is a classically proportioned Chianti Classico Riserva with great elegance and a seamless combination of bright red fruit flavors and earthy notes. … Read more
Badia a Coltibuono, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($14, Dalla Terra Direct): This Chianti Classico reminds us that Badia a Coltibuono consistently makes attractive wines. The vintage was difficult in the Chianti Classico region because of less-than-perfect weather. Nonetheless, Badia a Coltibuono has fashioned a traditionally framed — that is, not overdone — Chianti Classico. … Read more
G. D. Vajra, Dolcetto d’Alba (Piedmont, Italy) “Coste e Fossati” 2013
($26): G. D. Vajra, one of my favorite Barolo producers, also makes excellent wines from other traditional Piedmont grapes, such as this Dolcetto. This is an unusual Dolcetto because the vines are over 100 years old and they are planted in a two vineyards — Coste and Fossati — that actually lie in the Barolo DOCG and could be planted with Nebbiolo and sold at a far higher price. … Read more
Mirafiore, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Paiagallo” 2010
($80, Domaine Select Wine Estates): Here’s another example of the stature of the 2010 vintage in Barolo. Serralunga, the village within the Barolo DOCG zone where the Paiagallo vineyard is located, is known for powerful wines. Mirafiore’s certainly fits that description.… Read more
Damilano, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Cannubi 2010
($85): Cannubi is one of the truly great vineyards in the Barolo zone. If there were a Burgundy-like classification system of vineyards in Barolo, Cannubi would clearly be awarded the equivalent of Grand Cru status. Combine grapes from this vineyard, the stunning 2010 vintage, and an excellent producer and… bingo, you have a stellar wine. … Read more
Damilano, Barbera d’Asti (Piedmont, Italy) 2013
($17): I admit it. I love good Barbera. Along with Dolcetto, another workhorse grape and wine from Piedmont, Barbera is often my go-to choice at Italian restaurants because it meshes so nicely with food and almost always offers good value. Damilano (an estate that also made excellent Barolo in 2010) made a 2013 Barbera d’Asti that’s easy to embrace. … Read more
Sartori, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico (Veneto, Italy) Corte Brà 2008
($55, Banfi): This is a beautifully balanced young Amarone showing the potential of this great DOCG. Not particularly tannic, but youthful because of its tightly wound structure, a hint of its grandeur still peeks out. This is a serious Amarone with an enticing bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Tascante, Sicilia IGT (Italy) “Ghiaia Nera” 2012
($22, Dalla Terra Direct): Tascante is the name of the Mount Etna project of Tasca d’Almerita, one of the locomotives that have brought Sicilian wines to the world’s attention. (The name is an amalgamation of Tasca appended to Etna, spelled backwards.) … Read more
Agricole Vallone, Salice Salentino Riserva (Puglia, Italy) “Vereto” 2008
($15, Quintessential Wines): Puglia, the “heel” of Italy’s “boot,” is home to some amazing and well-priced wines. This one, and Vallone’s Vigna Flamino, are two that should not be missed because they offer incredible enjoyment at an affordable price. The Salice Salentino Riserva, made entirely from Negroamaro, is a hefty wine, but not overdone, with an alluring subtle bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Agricole Vallone, Brindisi Riserva (Puglia, Italy) Vigna Flaminio 2008
($15, Quintessential Wines): Similar to Vallone’s Salice Salentino Riserva, this wine is also a wonderfully expressive gem from Puglia. A blend of Negroamaro (80%) and Montepulciano, it’s slightly less dense and a touch brighter and more energetic than its stable mate. … Read more
Elvio Cogno, Nascetta di Novello Langhe (Piedmont, Italy) Novello “Anas-Cëtta” 2013
($28, Wilson Daniels): It takes a bit of work to sort out the label, but it’s worth it. Starting at the top, Elvio Cogno is a red-hot producer in Piedmont best known for their Barolo and Barbaresco. Nascetta is an obscure variety from the Langhe thought by some to be related to Vermentino, which they’ve had in their Novello vineyard for a couple of decades. … Read more
Damilano, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Lecinquevigne” 2010
($35): Rarely have I read as much unanimity regarding the stature of a vintage as I have concerning the 2010 Barolo. And now, having tasted a fair number of them myself, I agree — it’s a consistently great vintage. Damilano is a well-known producer who bottles several single vineyard Barolos, which are captivating in 2010. … Read more
Why Are Italian Wines So Popular?
Italian wine has always been popular in the U.S., and today accounts for a staggering one out of every three bottles imported into this country. … Read more
Cantina Mesa, IGT Isola dei Nuraghi (Italy) “Buio Buio” 2010
($20, Montcalm Wine Importers): Made from the Carignano del Sulcis grape, the local name for Carignan grown in the Sulcis region of southwestern Sardinia, Buio Buio is a name to remember. For a vigorous and robust red, it has surprising finesse. … Read more
G. D. Vajra, Barbera d’Alba (Piedmont, Italy) 2011
($23, The Country Vintner): Vajra is a top Barolo producer, so when I spied their Barbera on a list at East 12th Osteria, an excellent, but under-the-radar restaurant with a thoughtful wine list in New York City, it was an obvious choice. … Read more
Alois Lageder, IGT Vignetti delle Dolomiti (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2013
($16, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Alois Lageder, one of the Alto Adige’s greatest producers, makes a host of stunning single vineyard wines. They also make lower priced wines, like this one, from grapes grown in a broader area that still transmit the character of the variety and the region. … Read more
Falesco, IGP Umbria (Umbria, Italy) “Vitiano” 2012
($11, Winebow): In 1979, Riccardo Cotarella, one of Italy’s greatest winemakers, along with his brother, Renzo, founded Falesco, a winery that has been producing exceptionally valued wines ever since. Vitiano, a blend of Merlot, Sangiovese, and Cabernet Sauvignon, delivers fruit and earthy flavors supported by fine tannins and vibrant acidity with an enchanting slight bitter finish.… Read more