($13, Soilair Selections): For those in need of a last minute recommendation for a Thanksgiving white, here it is. Made from mostly (80%) Carricante, an indigenous Sicilian white grape, it delivers a hint of peach-like notes without being sweet. Indeed, there’s an alluring bitter nuance in the finish along with the signature Italian bracing acidity. … Read more
Category Archives: Italy
Firriato, IGT Terre Siciliano (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Chiaramonte” 2011
($15, Soilair Selections): Nero d’Avola, a grape indigenous to Sicily, has the potential to set the wine world on fire because it is capable of delivering both fruity and earthy flavors when young — as in this rendition. Herbal aromas complement the black-fruited flavors in the mid-weight wine. … Read more
Montalbera, Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “La Tradizione” 2011
($16, Soilair Selections): Ruché, an obscure grape native to Piedmont, thrives and, dare I say, achieves greatness, in the DOCG zone of Castagnole Monferrato. A savory, almost truffle-like, nose draws you. And then, with a paradoxical lightweight sensibility, it delivers an alluring mixture of sweetness and firmness. … Read more
Livon, Collio (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2013
($17, Angelini Wine): With all the mediocre examples of Pinot Grigio on the market, it’s understandable that those consumers really interested in wine just avoid the category entirely. As is often the case, price doesn’t separate the wheat from the chaff with many vapid ones occupying the same price point as this commendable one. … Read more
Cantina Terlano, Terlaner Classico Alto Adige (Alto Adige, Italy) 2013
($25, Banville & Jones Wine Merchants): Terlano, the name of the co-op formed in 1860, is also the name of the town, which can lead to some confusion. There’s nothing confusing about the wine, however. This harmonious blend of Pinot Bianco (60%), Chardonnay (30%) and Sauvignon Blanc combines richness with vibrancy. … Read more
Mastroberardino, Taurasi Riserva (Campania, Italy) “Radici” 2006
($70, Winebow): Mastroberardino is, without doubt, one of the top producers in Campania and, indeed, in all of Italy. Their Taurasi is the benchmark for that appellation. This 2006 Riserva, amazingly still available at retail — an indication of how underappreciated these are — is sensational. … Read more
Bolla, IGT Verona (Veneto, Italy) “Creso” 2010
($23): Traditionalists are advised not to read the technical details of this wine before tasting it. The Cabernet Sauvignon (one-third of the blend), the year’s aging in new French oak and the 15% stated alcohol all have the capacity to obliterate the character of the wine and throw it out of balance. … Read more
Marchese Frescobaldi, Chianti Rùfina Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) “Nipozzano Vecchie Viti” 2011
($29, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Frescobaldi, one of Italy’s finest producers, owns estates throughout Tuscany. Their Nipozzano estate is home to their splendid line of Chianti from the often-overlooked Rùfina subzone of that region. This bottling is from the oldest vines (Vecchie Viti) on the property. … Read more
Castello Banfi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Poggio Alle Mura Riserva 2007
($80): Castello Banfi has been — and remains — a leader in Montalcino, specifically refining and raising the profile of one of Italy’s finest wines, Brunello di Montalcino. They are one of the largest and best producers in the region and have devoted tons of money and done decades of research to determine which clones of Sangiovese do best in the region. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Cerequio” 2010
($107, Kobrand): Chiarlo owns more than half (23 of 40 acres) of this famed vineyard located in the commune of La Morra. In the 19th century the Cerequio vineyard was considered the only first growth of Barolo, according to Alberto Chiarlo, describes the wine from this vineyard, a south-facing amphitheatre, as the “Queen of Barolo” because of its ripe and open character. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Cannubi” 2010
($107, Kobrand): The 45-acre Cannubi vineyard, one of Barolo’s most acclaimed, is divided among 22 producers, according to Alberto Chiarlo. With 3 acres, Chiarlo is the second largest owner, but they still produce only 6,000 bottles annually. Chiarlo explains that Barolo’s two major soil types converge in Cannubi, which, in his opinion, accounts for its wines’ complexity and power. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barbera d’Asti Superiore (Piedmont, Italy) “Le Orme” 2011
($15, Kobrand): The 2011 vintage, a warm one in Piedmont, was particularly good for Barbera because the extra ripeness balances that grape’s inherent acidity. With its bright signature and fruity charm, Chiarlo’s Le Orme is a great introduction for those who are unfamiliar with the virtues of that grape and wine. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barbera d’Asti Superiore (Piedmont, Italy) “La Court” 2011
($52, Kobrand): La Court, a more polished and “important” wine, makes a fascinating comparison with Chiarlo’s other Barbera d’Asti, Le Orme. The grapes come from the same vineyard, according to Alberto Chiarlo, but the ones destined for La Court are harvested later and then treated differently in the winery with fermentation occurring like Barolo, in open vats. … Read more
Cantina Roccafiore, Todi Grechetto Superiore DOC (Umbria, Italy) “Fiorfiore” 2012
($18, Vignaioli Selection): Grechetto di Todi, also known as Pignoletto, is a distinct variety from Grechetto di Umbria, the grape frequently used in Orvieto. So don’t think this is an Orvieto. Not surprisingly, given the name of the winery and the name of the wine, it is beautifully floral. … Read more
Cantina de Soave, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) “Rocca Sveva” 2013
($13): Cantina de Soave, a very good cooperative, makes a wide range of wines. The Rocca Sveva line is one of their upper level ones. This crisp Soave, clean and fresh, has a touch of fruitiness in the finish. Not the watery Soave so common decades ago, it has character. … Read more
Sartori, Valpolicella Classico Superiore (Veneto, Italy) 2011
($15, Cru Artisan Wines): Andrea Sartori refers to their Valpolicella Classico as “the disappearing version” because so many producers are abandoning it for a wine made using the ripasso method, a technique that adds power. One taste and you’re glad this bottling hasn’t disappeared.… Read more
Sartori, Rosso Veronese IGT (Veneto, Italy) “Regolo” 2010
($20, Cru Artisan Wines): Though made entirely from Corvina Veronese, the most prized grape of Valpolicella, and grown in the mandated area, Regolo can not be labeled Valpolicella because Sartori uses the ripasso method — combining the wine with the lees of the prior year’s Amarone, adding yeast and starting another fermentation — which is prohibited by DOC regulations.… Read more
Sartori, Amarone della Valpolicella (Veneto, Italy) Corte Brá 2007
($50, Cru Artisan Wines): As good as Sartori’s Valpolicella and IGT Veronese wines are, this wine shows that Amarone deserves the reputation it has and why it has been awarded DOCG status. From grapes grown in the vineyard, Corte Brà, around the winery, this Amarone has great power without sacrificing elegance or complexity.… Read more
I Saltari, Amarone della Valpolicella (Veneto, Italy) 2007
($55, Cru Artisan Wines): This is an easy-to-recommend Amarone from the highly regarded 2007 vintage. It’s appropriately big and concentrated while retaining elegance and balance. The truly appealing character is an invigorating interplay between the sweetness of the fruit and the bitterness from the structure.… Read more
Castello Banfi, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) Poggio all’Oro 2007
($140, Cru Artisan Wines): When Castello Banfi purchased land and established a winery in Montalcino in the late 1970s, the locals nervously joked that they would ruin Brunello’s reputation by bottling it under screw top — they were (and still are) the USA importer of Riunite.… Read more
Attems, Venezia Giulia IGT (Italy) Pinot Grigio “Ramato” 2012
($18, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Despite its copper hue, Attems’ Pinot Grigio is not a rosé. Indeed, it is among the few renditions of Pinot Grigio that have an ever-so-slightly rusty pink color to them because the grape itself is pink skinned. … Read more
Castello Banfi, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Poggio alle Mura 2011
($32, Cru Artisan Wines): The best Rosso di Montalcino, such as this one, can truly be considered “baby” Brunello. Though they lack the complexity of Brunello, they are ready to drink sooner, provide a hint of the grandeur of the bigger brother, and are far easier on the wallet.… Read more
Castello Banfi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Poggio alle Mura 2008
($72, Cru Artisan Wines): As much as I like Banfi’s Rosso from the Poggio alle Mura vineyard, their Brunello from that vineyard shows why Brunello is one of Italy’s great wine. The 2008 vintage, an excellent one for Brunello, was cooler producing structured racy wines.… Read more
Attems, IGP Venezia Giulia (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2013
($17, Folio Fine Wine Partners): This wine explains the popularity of Pinot Grigio. Subtle floral quality and hint of peachiness all supported and amplified by a zingy backbone. This is the real thing. A versatile wine, it’s well suited as a stand-alone aperitif or, because of its depth, as an accompaniment to grilled striped bass or similar seafood. … Read more
Mionetto, Prosecco Treviso (Veneto, Italy) Brut NV
($14, Mionetto USA): Prosecco, the fresh and fruity bubbly from northeastern Italy, is the perfect summertime sparkler. The designation Treviso indicates that all the grapes came from the Treviso province, which is the historical center of the Prosecco zone. Mionetto’s Brut, clean and crisp, has a refreshing fruitiness and roundness without obvious sweetness. … Read more
Mionetto, Prosecco Superiore Valdobbiadene DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Extra Dry NV
($19, Mionetto USA): Valdobbiadene is a village within the Prosecco zone in northeastern Italy that historically has been recognized as home to better grapes because of its hillside vineyards. The vineyards of Valdobbiadene escape the humidity of the plains and are cooler at night, which maintains the acidity of the grapes and imparts greater finesse to the wines. … Read more
Tenuta Perolla, IGP Toscana (Italy) Vermentino 2012
($12, San Felice, USA): San Felice, one of Tuscany’s great red wine producers, also makes this vibrant white from mostly (85%) Vermentino. A touch of Sauvignon Blanc makes it even more energetic. It’s a thoughtful blend because the combination of its lively character and depth make it an ideal accompaniment for simple summer seafood. … Read more
Banfi, Alta Langa DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Cuvée Aurora” Rosé Brut 2010
($32): This Rosé, made entirely from Pinot Noir, has the intensity of flavor you’d expect from a wine made from red grapes and a gorgeous rosy pink color. Made by the classic — that is, Champagne — method of a secondary fermentation in the bottle (metodo classico, in Italian), an elegant suaveness balances its power. … Read more
Age-Worthy Italian White Wine is not an Oxymoron
Livio Felluga’s Terre Alte redefines Italian white wine for me. Andrea Felluga, the current winemaker and general manager of the family-run firm, was recently in New York and led a vertical tasting of eight vintages of Terre Alte, spanning 15 years, back to 1997, that showed how magnificently this white wine developed with bottle age.… Read more
I Saltari, Valpolicella Superiore (Veneto, Italy) Le Vigne di Turáno 2010
($18, Banfi Vintners): Sartori, one of the Veneto’s top producers, owns the I Saltari estate, which helps explain why the wines are so stunning. Andrea Sartori attributes the exceptional quality of this single-vineyard wine to careful viticulture coupled with low yields. … Read more
Castello Banfi, Toscana IGT (Italy) Cum Laude 2010
($37, Banfi Vintners): Castello Banfi, best known for its stunning Brunello di Montalcino, also produces an array of “Super Tuscan” wines, one of which is Cum Laude, an unconventional blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese and Syrah. The 2010 Cum Laude may be their best ever. … Read more
Principessa Gavia, Gavi DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) 2013
($15, Banfi Vintners): Though Piedmont is best known for its regal red wines, Barolo and Barbaresco, the region is home to a noteworthy white, Gavi, which takes its name from the town where the Cortese grape grows best. The 2013 from Principessa Gavia entices you with its delicate aromas of white flowers.… Read more
Cerulli Spinozzi, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane (Abruzzo, Italy) “Torre Migliori” 2008
($17, Banfi Vintners): Cerulli Spinozzi’s Torre Migliori has all of the concentration that Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is known for, but with a complexity and elegance that is rarely seen in wines made from that grape. It’s easy to see why Colline Teramane is Abruzzo’s sole DOCG. … Read more
Cerulli Spinozzi, Colli Aprutini IGP (Abruzzo, Italy) Pecorino “Cortalto” 2013
($13, Banfi Vintners): It’s not just a cheese. Pecorino (from “pecora,” the word for sheep in Italian) is also a grape native to Abruzzo and Marche, regions on the Eastern side of the Italian peninsula. Enrico Cerulli Irelli, family proprietor of Cerulli Spinozzi, speculates that the grape got its name because sheep grazing on adjacent pastures would nibble at the vines. … Read more
Planeta, DOC Moscato di Noto (Sicily, Italy) 2013
($22, Palm Bay International): Using both international and indigenous grapes, Planeta, a visionary producer, is showing the world that high-quality wine comes from Sicily, the island that not long ago had a reputation for quantity over quality. This Moscato di Noto, another surprise from this talented producer, captures your attention with the first aromatic whiff. … Read more
Planeta, DOC Vittoria (Sicily, Italy) Frappato 2013
($22, Palm Bay International): Planeta has made an utterly charming wine entirely from Frappato, a grape more often blended with Nero d’Avola for Sicily’s DOCG wine, Cerasuolo di Vittoria. As a stand-alone, Planeta’s Frappato is a light to mid-weight juicy red-fruited wine with an alluring hint of smokiness and a faint — and welcome — bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Planeta, DOC Noto (Sicily, Italy) Santa Cecilia 2009
($42, Palm Bay International): Planeta considers Santa Cecilia, made exclusively from Nero d’Avola at its Noto estate, one of its six wineries spread over the island, to be its flagship red wine. I’ve always loved the Santa Cecilia because of the complexity it shows and enjoyment it delivers when young.… Read more
Planeta, Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG (Sicily, Italy) 2011
($24, Palm Bay International): Cerasuolo di Vittoria, one of Sicily’s two DOCG wines (along with Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico), is a blend of two indigenous grapes, Frappato and Nero d’Avola. Francesca Planeta considers Cerasuolo di Vittoria Sicily’s “Pinot Noir.” Planeta’s 2011, fragrant, pure and precise, focuses on the fruitiness of the blend. … Read more
Planeta, Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG (Sicily, Italy) Dorilli 2011
($33, Palm Bay International): Though Planeta is a Sicilian producer — and a great one at that — they trumpet the idea that Sicily has many different terroirs. Just as we no longer refer to “Chinese” food given the diversity of flavors coming from that country, people should stop thinking of “Sicilian” wine. … Read more
Mionetto, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Italy) “Luxury” Extra Dry NV
($20): Mionetto, one of Prosecco’s leading producers, bottles a number of different ones. This one, an Extra-Dry — which paradoxically means it’s not the driest — is delicate and lacey. Slightly rounder than a Brut, it nonetheless has a refreshing crispness and green apple-like flavors. … Read more
Vietti, Moscato d’Asti (Piedmont, Italy) “Cascinetta” 2013
($18): Vietti is truly one of Piedmont’s — and Italy’s — most talented producers. They bottle a stunning array of Barolo and Barbaresco. But I didn’t realize they have figured out how to bottle springtime. With just 5.5 percent stated alcohol, a bit of sweetness and a little refreshing fizziness for balance, this Moscato d’Asti is just that — spring in a bottle. … Read more
Tenuta Alzatura, Sagrantino di Montefalco (Umbria, Italy) 2008
($41, Banfi Imports): Combine the owner of Tenuta Alzatura, the Cecchi family, one of Tuscany’s most reliable producers, with a superb vintage, 2008, and you’d expect an outstanding wine just from the label. What’s in the bottle confirms your prediction. Mind you, this wine, as good as it is, is not for the faint of heart. … Read more
Rocca delle Macie, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2009
($23, Palm Bay International): Reflective of the warmer vintage in Tuscany, Rocca delle Macie’s 2009 Chianti Classico Riserva conveys a juicier and riper cherry-like fruitiness than usual. Still, it has plenty of that mouth tingling acidity that makes matching Chianti with pasta with a hearty meat sauce such a pleasure. … Read more
Adami, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore (Veneto, Italy) Bosco di Gica Brut NV
($18, Dalla Terra): The oceans of Prosecco on the market combined with the indiscriminate use of that term makes that category of Italian sparkling wine a minefield. One sure way to avoid an unpleasant experience is to reach for a wine made by Adami, one of the region’s top producers, which bottles a fine range of Prosecco. … Read more
Antonelli San Marco, Sagrantino di Montefalco (Umbria, Italy) 2008
($35): Antonelli’s viticultural and winemaking techniques result in a more elegant Sagrantino, often a wine with ferocious tannins. This Sagrantino is, indeed, less extracted and slightly less muscular than many. But not at the expense of minerality and earthiness, that really borders on an alluring tarry aspect. … Read more
Castello Banfi, IGT Toscana (Italy) “Belnero” 2010
($25, Banfi Imports): Castello Banfi, one of the leading producers Brunello di Montalcino, introduced Belnero a few years ago. It is composed almost exclusively of Sangiovese, though small amounts of “international varieties” are included in the blend. It has gotten better and better over the years. … Read more
Pieropan, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) “La Rocca” 2011
($30, Empson USA): Grapes from La Rocca vineyard are typically riper than from Pieropan’s Calvarino vineyard and explain why his La Rocca bottling is more intense. In contrast to Pieropan’s Calvarino Soave, La Rocca undergoes a little oak aging, which adds richness, without being obvious.… Read more
Pieropan, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) “Calvarino” 2011
($30, Empson USA): After decades of mediocrity, which destroyed Soave’s image, the wines from that region are still struggling to regain their rightful reputation as fine white wines. Pieropan, one of the leading producers in the region, is one of the reasons why consumers are rediscovering these wines. … Read more
Col d’Orcia, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($23, Palm Bay International): Francesco Marone Cinzano, owner of Col d’Orcia, is very pleased with their 2012 Rosso–and they should be, because they hit the mark with this wine in a difficult year. Poor weather reduced the vines’ ability to ripe a full load of grapes, according to Cinzano. … Read more
Querciabella, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2011
($33, Maisons Marques and Domaines): Querciabella is always on my short list of top Chianti Classico producers. Their 2011 reinforces my opinion. True to their style of Chianti Classico, their charming 2011 is filled with ripe, dark cherry-like flavors and spice, yet avoids being heavy or overdone because of its vivacity. … Read more