Category Archives: Italy

Castello di Volpaia, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Riserva 2012

($28): Castello di Volpaia consistently makes wonderful Chianti Classico.  This Riserva combines a good density of black cherry-like fruit and a lovely herbal earthy component.  A beefy wine, they’ve imbued it with power without sacrificing finesse or a graceful signature.  Despite its intensity, it’s still clearly identifiable as Chianti Classico because of the great Tuscan acidity and savory notes. Read more

COS, Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico (Sicily, Italy) “Delle Fontane” 2010

($60): COS (the name comes from the initials of the three founders’ last names: Giambattista Cilia, Giusto Occhipinti and Cirino Strano) is one of Sicily’s best and most innovative producers.  Cerasuolo di Vittoria, a red wine made from Frappato and Nero d’Avola, two grapes unique to Sicily, is that island’s only wine awarded DOCG status, Italy’s highest ranking, by the Italian government. Read more

Mastroberardino, Taurasi Riserva (Campania, Italy) “Radici” 2006

($80): Though I’ve recommended this wine before, my enthusiasm for it just keeps increasing after tasting it a few more times.  Mastroberardino is perhaps the finest producer in Campania (full disclosure, I’ve not tasted wines from every producer located in that region around Naples, but I’ve also not found any yet that consistently stand up to those of Mastroberardino.) Read more

Lunae, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Nera” 2014

($40, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): Forty dollars for a Vermentino, a wine more often found in the under $20 category, is an extraordinary price.  But this one, Lunae’s Black Label and the winery’s flagship, is an extraordinary wine.  After tasting the 2014, I can understand why Gambero Rosso, the prestigious Italian wine guide, has awarded the wine Tre Bicchieri (their highest accolade) for six consecutive years. Read more

Girlan, Alto Adige/ Südtirol (Italy) Lagrein 2012

($20, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): The name of the DOC — either Alto Adige or Südtirol — reflects the dual identity of this part of northern Italy, which abuts Austria.  But this is a singularly appealing wine.  Lagrein, not a well-known grape, should have more widespread popularity because it can produce a reasonably robust wine devoid of searing tannins and balanced by uplifting acidity. Read more

Illuminati, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) “Campirosa” 2014

($13, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): Though its enticing cherry-red hue says rosé, this is not your standard innocuous one, but rather a rosé masquerading as a light red wine–and a delightful one at that.  Fresh and bright, with hints of wild strawberries, the barest hint of a tannic structure and whiff of bitterness in the finish remind you it was made from a light pressing of the Montepulciano grape. Read more

Gregorina, Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore (Emilia-Romagna, Italy) 2012

($15, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): Sangiovese, Italy’s most widely planted red grape, is held in high esteem in Tuscany where it is the core for Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and the only grape allowed for Brunello di Montalcino.  Somehow, its glow fades as it hits the Emilia Romagna border, which is a shame because it can produce great value wine there, as Gregorina demonstrates. Read more

Arnaldo-Caprai, Montefalco Rosso (Umbria, Italy) 2012

($20, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Arnaldo-Caprai, one of the great names in the DOCG of Montefalco Sagrantino, also makes an easy to recommend Montefalco Rosso, a junior varsity version of that DOCG.  Whereas regulations for Montefalco Sagrantino require exclusive use of Sagrantino, winemakers are permitted to blend other grapes in Montefalco Rosso, which makes it a far more approachable wine. Read more

Monteverro, Toscana Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Verruzzo di Monteverro” 2013

($29, Opici Wines): Monteverro, whose aim is to join the top end Maremma producers, has crafted this seamless blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese as their “entry level” wine.  It has the richness expected from the Bordeaux varieties grown in that region, but unexpected brightness and liveliness from Sangiovese, a grape that does not ordinarily thrive in the Maremma. Read more