($30): I’m always skeptical of a Cabernet-based Super Tuscan wine, even from a top producer, such as Principe Corsini, because Cabernet can overwhelm Tuscan identity. No such problem with Marsiliana, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, despite being aged in new small French oak barrels. … Read more
Category Archives: Italy
Castello delle Regine, Umbria IGP (Italy) “Selezione del Fondatore” 2007
($45, Golden Ram Imports/Blue Sky Group): Castello delle Regine will be the producer to focus the light on Umbria as a source of grand wine. Their Selezione del Fondatore, which to my mind is their flagship wine, comes exclusively from 50+ year-old Sangiovese vines that the owners found on the property when they purchased it in the 1990s. … Read more
Umbria: Italy’s Forgotten Region (Until Now)
Ask consumers to name their favorite Italian wine regions and you’re sure to hear Tuscany and Piedmont. Italian white wine enthusiasts no doubt would add Friuli and Trentino to the list. And Campania would certainly be on most people’s short list. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Lunae DOC (Liguria/Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Nera” 2015
($31, Montcalm Wine Imports): I raved about the 2014 vintage of this wine, Lunae Bosoni’s flagship white made entirely from Vermentino. The 2015 is similarly stunning. Possibly the richest Vermentino I’ve ever had, it still retains lightness and vivacity with an invigorating zippy finish. … Read more
Sicily: Diverse Land, Diverse Wines
The wine culture of Sicily–a little bit of everything–mirrors that island’s unique character. Over the centuries, Sicily has been invaded and colonized by the Greeks, the Arabs, the Spanish, and the French, to name just a few. These diverse cultures have all have left their unique marks on the island–Catholic churches built by Arab workers look like mosques from the outside. … Read more
Cerulli Spinozzi, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Colline Teramane DOCG (Abruzzo, Italy) “Torre Migliori” 2011
($20, Cru Artisan): The wines from Colline Teramane, Abruzzo’s only DOCG, fly under the radar for some inexplicable reason, which makes them a bargain for consumers. Since they’re rarely seen on wine lists, even in the trendiest wine bars, it remains for savvy consumers to try them on their own, at home. … Read more
Sartori di Verona, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico (Veneto, Italy) Corte Brá 2007
($50, Cru Artisan): Sartori, a top producer based in the Veneto, bottles several Amarone. This one, Corte Brá, comes from a single vineyard and is, in my experience, always outstanding. The 2007 is particularly noteworthy because it is still widely available in the retail market and now, at a decade of age, is luscious and captivating. … Read more
Arnaldo-Caprai, Montefalco Rosso (Umbria, Italy) 2013
($20): Arnaldo-Caprai, certainly one of the top producers in Montefalco, has done an excellent job with this Montefalco Rosso, the baby brother of Sagrantino di Montefalco, which as DOCG status. Similar to other Rosso, such as Rosso di Montalcino, the Montefalco Rosso category gives the consumer an idea of what the Sagrantino di Montefalco, a wine that demands extended bottle aging to tame the tannins, might taste like since it is far more approachable at a young age. … Read more
Coppo, Barbera d’Asti (Piedmont, Italy) “Camp du Rouss” 2012
($21, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Barbera is a grape made for the cool and yes, wintery, weather ahead of us. And this one from Coppo is easy to recommend. It’s a pleasantly gutsy wine with briary fruit, good grip and uplifting acidity. … Read more
Pighin, Grave (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2015
($18, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Buying Pinot Grigio, one of America’s most popular white wines, is like walking through a mind field. With so many vapid examples on retailers’ shelves, it’s hard for a consumer to know how to choose. Well, you can start with this one by Pighin. … Read more
Pighin, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2015
($25, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Pighin’s Pinot Grigio, made from grapes grown in the Collio region of Friuli, is even more impressive that there Grave bottling. It has more of everything — concentration and finesse — without becoming overblown or blowsy. … Read more
Castello di Volpaia, Maremma DOC (Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Prelius” 2014
($14, Wilson Daniels): If you thought Castello di Volpaia was a great producer of Chianti Classico, you would be correct. But they also produce this bargain-priced Vermentino that shouldn’t be missed. Beautifully fresh, saline tinged, with uplifting acidity, it’s hard to find a better match for steamed clams or other simply prepared seafood. … Read more
Stemmari, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Grillo 2014
($11, Prestige Wine Imports): Stemmari works wonders with indigenous Sicilian varieties, such as Grillo. This one delivers an emblematic, ever so slightly bitter, saline component that makes it a delightful match for hearty seafood, perhaps in a tomato-based sauce, but less useful as a stand-alone aperitif. … Read more
Nativ, Greco di Tufo DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2014
($24, Montcalm Wine Imports): Nativ’s Greco di Tufo, one of Campania’s signature white wines, conveys a stony, almost volcanic essence, which is not surprising since this grape grows well on Vesuvius’s soil. A tinge of bitterness in the finish buttressed by bracing acidity catapults this wine into the “easy-to-recommend” category because it’s a serious wine that delivers more than the price suggests. … Read more
Nativ, Fiano di Avellino DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2014
($28, Montcalm Wine Imports): Nativ’s Fiano is a bit more floral than their Greco di Tufo. Instead of transmitting a sense of volcanic ash, it conveys a delicate white flowery sensation. It’s also a touch weightier and more tropical than their Greco. … Read more
Vento di Mare, Terre Siciliane IGT (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola 2014
($12, Middleton Family Wines): Vento di Mare continues their streak of bargain-priced wines with this Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s iconic red grape. Similar to its Grillo and Pinot Grigio made from organic grapes, this Nero d’Avola delivers surprising complexity, both fruity and savory notes, for such a modest price. … Read more
Castello di Meleto, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($22, Vias Imports): A blend of mostly (95%) Sangiovese and Malvasia Nero, this Chianti Classico delivers a harmonious contrast of herbal earthy flavors intermingled with pure fruity ones. Hallmark Tuscan acidity and firm tannins provide structure without being aggressive or intrusion. … Read more
Vento di Mare, Terre Siciliane IGT (Sicily, Italy) Grillo 2014
($12, Middleton Family Wines): As with their Pinot Grigio, Vento di Mare produces two wines, one from organic and one from conventional grapes, from Grillo, an indigenous Sicilian grape. This Grillo, from organic grapes, is slightly richer with a better texture and complexity compared to the one made from conventionally grown grapes. … Read more
Vento di Mare, Terre Siciliane IGT (Sicily, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2014
($12, Middleton Family Wines): Vento di Mare produces two Pinot Grigios in Sicily — this one made from organically grown grapes, and one made from conventionally grown grapes. They’re very different wines. This one, from organically grown grapes, is slightly less floral, less fruity, leaner and more angular. … Read more
Stemmari, Sicilia DOC (Italy) Nero d’Avola 2014
($10, Prestige Wine Imports): Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s “red grape,” has the ability to deliver both fruity and savory notes simultaneously even when young, as it does in this wine. Stemmari’s delivers savory nuances of herbs and olives, which make a lovely counterpoint to the bright red fruit elements. … Read more
Fontana Candida, Frascati Superiore DOCG Riserva (Lazio, Italy) “Luna Mater” 2012
($23, Banfi Vintners): Fontana Candida’s Luna Mater will transform your image of Frascati, typically a light refreshing, but otherwise undistinguished, white wine. Well, Luna Mater is certainly distinguished. It’s not just more concentrated than the usual Frascati — though it is. … Read more
Cerulli Spinozzi, Pecorino Colli Aprutini IGT (Abruzzo, Italy) “Cortalto” 2014
($15): Cortalto’s a wine to buy by the case. The pleasing bite of Pecorino, the grape, could remind consumers of the cheese. Cerulli Spinozzi, one of the top producers in Abruzzo, manages to combine the attractive bite with good concentration and uplifting acidity in this fresh and lively wine. … Read more
Frescobaldi, Toscana IGT (Italy) “Mormoreto” 2011
($62): So-called international blends in Tuscany can be fabulous or a heavy-handed disaster. Put Frescobaldi’s Mormoreto into the former category. The winemaking team there clearly knows what it’s doing. The 2011 Mormoreto, a typical Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), Cabernet Franc (30%), Merlot (20%), and Petit Verdot, brings together a marvelous mixture of fruity elements, savory nuances and a firm minerality. … Read more
Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane (Abruzzo, Italy) “Pieluni” Riserva 2010
($70, Montcalm Wine Imports): This wine dispels any notion that truly great wines are not made in Abruzzo from the Montepulciano grape. Yes, the nomenclature is confusing: Montepulciano, the grape, has nothing to do with Montepulciano the village in Tuscany known for Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, which uses the Sangiovese grape. … Read more
Fattoria di Grignano, Chianti Rufinà Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) Poggio Gualtieri 2011
($20, Montcalm Wine Imports): Chianti Rufinà region sometimes is overshadowed by Chianti Classico region, which is a shame because wines from the former often deliver more savory notes. Fattoria di Grignano’s fine example marries dark cherry-like fruit, earthy qualities with uplifting freshness and energy. … Read more
Stemmari, Terre Siciliane IGT (Sicily, Italy) Rosé 2015
($10, Prestige Wine Imports): Inexpensive rosés are popping up all over — like mushrooms after a rain — in response to enormous consumer demand for the pink drink. Consumers need care in choosing because many of these “value” wines turn out to be no value at all, which makes this one from Sicily all the more enjoyable. … Read more
Vivera, Etna Rosso DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Martinella” 2011
($40, Montcalm Wine Imports): The more I taste wines grown on the slopes of Mount Etna, the more I like them because they have a Burgundian sensibility about them — what I call flavor without weight. This wine, a blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, the two grapes typically grown on Etna, is both fragrant and mineraly.… Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Grigia” 2015
($25, Montcalm Wine Imports): If you see Lunae Bosoni’s name on a label, buy the wine. This producer is consistently top-notch, whether it’s a white wine, like this Vermentino, a rosé — their Mea Rosa is stunning — or a red. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Liguria di Levante IGT (Liguria, Italy) “Mea Rosa” 2015
($25, Montcalm Wine Imports): Readers know I’m not swept away by the tsunami of enthusiasm for rosé, often recommending chilling a light red instead. Well, this rosé makes me reassess my opinion of the category. Made entirely from Vermentino Nero, an autochthonous grape from Liguria, it has layers of flavor that impart character. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni Rosso DOC (Liguria, Italy) “Auxo” 2012
($25, Montcalm Wine Imports): Though the Colli di Luni Rosso DOC straddles two regions, Liguria and Tuscany, the blend is typically Tuscan, Sangiovese (70%) with Cannaiolo and Ciliegiolo. A balanced wine, it achieves roundness and generosity without being overtly fruity of flabby.… Read more
Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC (Abruzzo, Italy) “Riparosso” 2014
($15, Montcalm Wine Imports): A steal, this wine is in the “buy it by the case” category. Always a good buy, the 2014 vintage is especially noteworthy because Illuminati made no riserva that year. Grapes from their 45-year old vineyard that usually go into the riserva wound up in the Riparosso, imparting extra density, concentration and refinement.… Read more
Siepi, a True Super Tuscan
Today, the term Super Tuscan has become almost meaningless because its widespread use encompasses anything from expensive wine made entirely from Sangiovese to low-end blends of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with Sangiovese.
The original Super Tuscan moniker referred to innovative wines, blends of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, or those varieties with Tuscany’s traditional Sangiovese. … Read more
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Toscana IGT (Italy) “Poggio alle Gazze” 2014
($65, Folio Fine Wines): Ornellaia’s white wines fly under the radar because their red wines are so outstanding. That situation won’t last for long. Poggio alle Gazze is an unconventional blend of roughly two-thirds Sauvignon Blanc with Vermentino, Verdicchio and Viognier. … Read more
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Bolgheri Superiore (Tuscany, Italy) Ornellaia 2013
($225, Folio Fine Wines): Ornellaia is truly an iconic Super Tuscan that shows that Bordeaux does not have a monopoly on making great wine from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The 2013 growing season in Bolgheri was cooler than usual, producing less opulent, but to my mind no less enjoyable, wines. … Read more
Arnaldo-Caprai, Colli Martani DOC (Umbria, Italy) Grechetto “Grecante” 2015
($19, Wilson Daniels): Arnaldo-Caprai is one of the top producers of Sagrantino di Montefalco, a sturdy long lived red wine. It turns out he does equally well with a more delicate white. This Grechetto delivers a lovely and lively crispness without being aggressive or overbearing. … Read more
Casale Falchini, Toscana IGT (Italy) “Paretaio” 2011
($25): A steal. Let me repeat — this wine is a steal. Falchini is perhaps best known for their lovely Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Vigna a Solatio, which at $13, is another steal, but that’s another story. Their Paretaio, a Super Tuscan in everything but the price, could easily become their calling card. … Read more
Castello ColleMassari, Montecucco Rosso Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($26): Montecucco is a small DOC in Tuscany bordering Brunello di Montalcino, its far more famous — and expensive — neighbor. Montecucco Rosso is analogous to Rosso di Montalcino in that in is Montecucco’s earlier drinking wine. The Riserva designation means it’s undergone additional aging and presumably is better wine. … Read more
Alberto Longo, Puglia IGT (Italy) Falanghina “Le Fossette” 2014
($15): Alberto Longo is a name to remember. Anyone who can make such a bright and lively white wine in Puglia, home to big reds, is a producer to know. This Falanghina is floral and fresh with laser-like precision in the finish. … Read more
Alberto Longo, Puglia IGT (Italy) Negroamaro “Capoposto” 2013
($20, T. Edward Wines): To use a highly technical word to describe this wine, yummy! It’s both refined and exotic with black cherry-like notes balanced by earthy ones so it’s not just fruity. It has good weight and density without being heavy. … Read more
Alberto Longo, Cacc’e Mmitte di Lucera (Puglia, Italy) 2013
($19): One of the advantages of an impossible to pronounce DOC, such as Cacc’e Mmitte di Lucera (very roughly, ca-tch-y mint-y di lu-chair-a) is that the wines are underpriced for what they deliver because consumers are afraid — or can’t — order them. … Read more
Carmignano: The Original Super Tuscan
No doubt the producers in Carmignano, the smallest DOCG of Tuscany and located just northwest of Florence, bristle when they hear praise lavished on the so-called “Super Tuscan” wines…and are envious of the prices they command. Although the term Super Tuscan became popular about 35 years ago as a way to describe wines that were made either from Bordeaux grape varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc (or a mix of those grapes with Sangiovese, the traditional grape of Tuscany), the concept has been around a lot longer–a whole lot longer.… Read more
Fattoria Ambra, Carmignano (Tuscany, Italy) “Santa Cristina in Pilli” 2013
($20): Santa Cristina in Pilli is one of two single-vineyard (“crus”) Carmignano. (Ambra also produces two Carmignano Riservas from two other single vineyards.) This is another prime example of how Carmignano is underpriced. It’s a seamless combination conveying fruitiness and savory notes. … Read more
Capezzana, Carmignano (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($30): This stunning wine has the structure — firm without be hard or aggressive — you’d expect for an excellent young wine. With a “not just fruit” quality, it delivers a gorgeous combination of cherry-like fruit, herbal notes and earthy flavors. … Read more
Villa Artimino, Carmignano (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($20): If you need another example of how Carmignano over delivers, look no further than this one from Villa Artimino. Very fragrant, it has a touch more concentration without being overdone or sacrificing any elegance. It, too, has an engaging texture and a welcome firmness balanced by plenty of energy. … Read more
Piaggia, Carmignano (Tuscany, Italy) “Il Sasso” 2013
($26, Worldwide Cellars): Piaggia’s Il Sasso another wine that over delivers and demonstrates the value of Carmignano. A blend of Sangiovese (70%), Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc (20%) and Merlot, it is a sophisticated wine, delivering a bit of everything — black fruit, earthy and savory notes — and not too much of anything. … Read more
Capezzana, Barco Reale di Carmignano (Tuscany, Italy) 2014
($14, Mionetti): This immediately accessible mid-weight wine combines fruit and earth with just the right amount of structure. It has extraordinary complexity for the price. Buy it by the case for this summer’s grilling season.
90 Michael Apstein May 3, 2016… Read more
Villa Cerna, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($25): Cecchi, though one of Tuscany’s great producers, flies under the radar. A family firm run currently by brothers Andrea and Cesare Cecchi, they produce a range of wines from estates in Tuscany and Umbria. This one, a traditionally framed Chianti Classico made from a blend of Sangiovese and Colorino, exhibits the near magical combination of bright red cherry-like fruit and savory herbal qualities. … Read more
Chianti Rùfina: Wines Worth Knowing
It’s well worth unraveling the confusion that often prevents consumers from embracing Chianti Rùfina, for the wines from this area are a joy to drink. Some people mistake this subregion of the greater Chianti area for Ruffino, a prominent producer of Chianti and Chianti Classico (Ruffino makes no Chianti Rùfina, though). … Read more
Carpenè Malvolti, Prosecco Superior Conegliano Valdobbiadene (Veneto, Italy) Extra Dry NV
($16, Angelini Wine, Ltd): The Italians — and I love them — can be their own worst enemies. Take Prosecco, for example. This easy to pronounce, charming wine has taken the world by storm and has practically become a generic term for any sparkling wine. … Read more
Castello Banfi, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) “Poggio alle Mura” 2013
($32): Rosso di Montalcino can be an excellent introduction to the glories of Brunello di Montalcino, one of Italy’s iconic wines. Similar to Brunello, Rosso must be made entirely from Sangiovese. This one, from Castello Banfi, a leading Brunello producer whose dedicated work in the 1980s helped catapult Brunello onto the world’s wine stage, is truly a “baby Brunello.” … Read more