G. D. Vajra, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Ravera 2010

($68): Vajra’s Ravera comes from the Barolo commune (subzone) where the two different soil types of the Barolo DOCG meet.  Hence, experts say that wines from this area are the most complete Barolo because, reflecting both soils, they exhibit both power and grace.  The experts must have tasted this wine when they came up with that assessment.  This is the first vintage Vajra has bottled Ravera separately.  Previously they included it in their multi-vineyard blend because the vines were too young to express the vineyard’s individuality.  Though the vines are still young by Barolo standards — about 10 years old — Vajra believes they are now starting to produce a distinctive wine.  The 2010 Ravera leads with beautifully floral aromas and follow with an alluring austerity.  Tannins are firm, but finely honed and perfectly integrated making this a seamless wine.  Like many great young wines, it explodes in the finish.  There is a Burgundian sensibility — flavor without weight — to it.  Another one for the cellar.  In a decade or so, you’ll be happy it’s there.
93 Michael Apstein Mar 3, 2015