Category Archives: Italy

Celli, Bertinaro Romagna DOC (Emilia Romagna) Sangiovese Riserva, “Bron & Rusèval” 2017

($28):  Since Sangiovese, a grape associated with Tuscany, is the most widely planted grape in Italy, it is not surprising to find excellent wines made from it outside of that region.  Here’s one such example from nearby Romagna, which Mauro Sirri, the owner of Celli, is quick to identify as distinct from Emilia: “They’re known for Lambrusco; we’re known for dry wines.” Read more

Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Grigia” (Grey Label) 2020

($25, Montcalm Wine Importers):  Lunae Bosoni, one of Liguria’s top producers, consistently makes a stunning line up of Vermentino wines.  The 2020 maintains that tradition.  Riper than usual in this vintage, this nevertheless has very energetic acidity holds everything together.  An intriguing and uplifting saline touch keeps you interested and invites another sip. Read more

Cecchi, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Riserva di Famiglia” 2016

($48, Terlato):  Cecchi is one of the great names for Tuscan wines, especially Chianti Classico.  Combine their talents with a great vintage, like 2016, and, unsurprisingly, you have a truly fine wine.  It conveys both the charm and power of a Chianti Classico Riserva reinforced and amplified by great acidity, a characteristic of the vintage. Read more

Cecchi, Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Valore di Famiglia” 2016

($65):  Gran Selezione is a relatively new category of Chianti Classico.  It sits at the pinnacle of the quality pyramid, above Riserva.  Regulations require, among other things, that the grapes come entirely from the producers’ vineyards — no purchased fruit is allowed — and that the wine must be aged for 30 months before release, compared to 24 months for Riserva. Read more

Masciarelli, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC (Italy) “Marina Cvetic” 2016

($27, Vintus):  Montepulciano d’Abruzzo has nothing to do with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.  The former is a grape, the latter a village whose wines, curiously enough, are made from Sangiovese.   The quality and price of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is vast, from thin swill to monumental wine, which makes it a mine field when selecting wines. Read more

Travaglino, Oltrepò Pavese DOC (Lombardy, Italy) Pinot Nero Poggio della Butinera Riserva 2015

($42):  Italy is not known for Pinot Nero (aka Pinot Noir) the way it is for Nebbiolo or Sangiovese.  In the relatively cool Oltrepò Pavese region, the grape does well, as Travaglino shows with this 2015 Riserva.  Nicely concentrated, but certainly nowhere near a New World style, it delivers both fruit flavors and savory character, the latter of which is immediately apparent in the nose and carries onto the palate. Read more

Agricola Punica, Isola del Nuraghi IGT (Sardinia, Italy) “Barrua” 2015

($46):  Agricola Punica is a collaboration between Tenuta San Guido, the Bolgheri producer responsible for Sassicaia, and Sardinia’s Cantina di Santadi.  The late Giacomo Tachis, who was a genius at sensing the utility of the so-called Bordeaux varieties in selected Italian locales, suggested the blend of Carignano, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot for their wine to be called “Barrua.” Read more

Cascina Castlet, Barbera d’Asti DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Litina” 2016

($40, Artisan Selections by Romano Brands):  The label sports CCC in bold letters on the bottle, the abbreviation of the winery, Cascina Caslet, plus the village, Costigliole, where it’s located. The important information can be found on the neck label. Similar to their Vespa bottling, the Litinia, named after a family member, is a robust wine that delivers black fruitiness buttressed by zippy acidity. Read more

Castello La Leccia, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Bruciagna” 2015

($40, Ideal Wine):  Gran Selezione, a category introduced a decade ago, sits at the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid, above Riserva.  To qualify for this distinction, the wine must come from the producer’s estate — no purchased grapes allowed — be aged for a minimum of 30 months, and receive approval from a tasting panel. Read more