Colle Santa Mustiola di Fabio Cenni, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Sangiovese Poggio ai Chiari 2011

($80, Selezioni Varietali):  This is my first encounter with this producer, but it certainly will not be my last given the quality of this wine.  Their importer tells me Cenni’s focus is Sangiovese, with their 12 acres planted entirely with 28 clones of that variety.  Poggio ai Chiari, their flagship wine, is impressive from the first fragrant whiff.  Stylish and refined, it transmits a lovely austerity without being hard. Paradoxically, it is both delicate and powerful, but not heavy.  Hints of cherries come through and mingle with mineral-like flavors.  Uplifting acidity keeps it fresh and lively and balances its chiseled profile.  An engaging hint of bitterness in the finish increases its appeal.  Cenni clearly knows something about Sangiovese.
94 Michael Apstein Jul 28, 2020