Category Archives: USA – California

Terre Rouge, California (United States) Syrah “Les Côtes de l’Ouest” 2005

($18):  Winemaker and owner Bill Easton bottles his wines made from Rhône grapes–Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache, Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier–under the Terre Rouge label, using the eponymous name for those made from other varietals.  All of the vineyards that produce grapes for this wine face west, hence its name, Les Côtes de l’Ouest. … Read more

Hess, California (United States) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

($17): A blend of fruit from Mendocino, Lake, and Napa counties–with no one area exceeding the magical 85% number–means the label carries the general California appellation.  But that should not deter you from buying this solid, enjoyable Cabernet.  Blended with Syrah (8%) and Merlot (4%), this Cabernet Sauvignon delivers ripe flavors–without being overdone–supported by fine tannins. … Read more

Are Stags Leap District Wines Unique?

Everyone seems to agree that the Stags Leap District of Napa Valley is unique because of its topography, climate and soil.  The question remains whether that uniqueness translates into distinctive wines that reflect the site.

To test the theory, I spent two days in the Stags Leap District comparing the same vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon made from grapes grown in the Stags Leap District to those made from grapes grown in other California locales. … Read more

American Viticultural Areas (AVAs): Do They Make Sense?

Americans have never been particularly adept at geography. Since most would fail to locate Kansas on an unlabeled map of the United States, how would they fare with finding Chambolle-Musigny? This is why the American practice of naming wines by grape name is so successful for marketing

However, winemakers everywhere–from California to France–insist that wine is ‘made in the vineyard,’ and that location matters.… Read more

Chateau St. Jean, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Belle Terre Vineyard 2006

($25): Certainly compared to the Robert Young Chardonnay (reviewed this week and previously), this is a full-blown–yet not ‘over the top’–Chardonnay.  A buttery, toasty quality seems to magnify the ripe tropical fruit flavors. Adequate citric-like acidity holds it all together and despite the richness and power, it’s not over done. … Read more

Clos LaChance, Central Coast (California) Estate Vineyard Meritage Red Wine 2005

($50): Clos LaChance uses all five of the traditional Bordeaux grapes (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc) grown in their home vineyard for their Meritage red wine.  Despite a hefty dollop (almost 20%) of Petit Verdot and Malbec (12%), which helps explain the wine’s deep color and weightiness, it’s a well-balanced wine showing nicely integrated oak, black fruit-like flavors and spice even at this youthful stage. … Read more

Sobon Estate, Amador County (California) Primitivo Reserve 2006

($24): Primitivo, according to many authorities, is the European equivalent of Zinfandel.  With briary deep black fruit flavors, Sobon’s version is certainly Zinfandel-like.  Big and almost overblown, it has an attractive rusticity.  Spicy oak and slight heat in the finish–15.1% stated alcohol speaking-definitely means you’ll want this wine on a cold winter’s night.… Read more

Renwood, Amador County (California) Zinfandel “Grandpère” 2004

($40): Grandpère is the name of the vineyard, which according to Renwood has the oldest clone of Zinfandel in California.  The age of the vines (130 years) certainly explains the uncommon complexity and subtlety–for Zinfandel–found in the wine.   The heat in the finish of this robust–15.5% stated alcohol–Zinfandel sadly detracts from the otherwise lovely layers of ripe fruit, spice and even tobacco-like nuances.… Read more

Domaine Carneros, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir “Estate” 2006

($35): Domaine Carneros, the California outpost of the Champagne firm Taittinger, makes excellent sparkling wines from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, so it comes as no surprise that they should also try their hand at still wines from those varietals.  Their Estate Pinot Noir, the lower of two tiers of Pinot, emphasizes the pure, cherry-like fruit aspect characteristic of many California renditions of this grape variety. … Read more

Domaine Carneros, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir “The Famous Gate” 2006

($68): This wine, Domaine Carneros’s super-duper cuvee, undoubtedly a blend of their best barrels, has the graceful marriage of fruit and earth flavors you’d expect from a top-end Pinot Noir.   It shows more complexity and haunting non-fruit nuances, but less of the direct sweet cherry-like flavors than their regular ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir (also reviewed this week). … Read more

Rodney Strong, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Symmetry” 2005

($60): Often times Cabernet-blended wines show more complexity than wines made from any of the single Bordeaux varieties.  The flavor profile of Merlot or Cabernet Franc, in particular, seems to be an especially well-suited foil to Cabernet.  But in this case, Rodney Strong’s Symmetry–a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (73%), Merlot (15%), Cabernet Franc (4%) and Malbec (3%)–takes a back seat to their excellent Alexander Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. … Read more

Robert Mondavi–The Patriarch of California Wine

No person has had as great an influence on California wine–and how the world viewed it–as Robert Mondavi.  Andre Tchelistcheff, Beaulieu Vineyards’ legendary winemaker from 1938 to 1968, made great Cabernet Sauvignon–and less well realized, but no less great–Pinot Noir.  Ernest and Julio Gallo sold more California wine (and their company still does) than anyone else. … Read more

Kendall-Jackson, California (United States) Merlot “Vintner’s Reserve” 2005

($19): Year in and year out, KJ does it.  Blending wine from grapes grown in Mendocino, Napa and Sonoma Counties, Kendall-Jackson walks the line between a sipping ‘aperitif’ Merlot and one with sufficient structure and stuffing to accompany food.  Accessible, upfront, cherry-like fruit makes it easy to drink a glass before dinner, but richness and good weight buttressed by supple tannins and good acidity makes it a fine choice with a meal.… Read more