($14): Nardello is one of the producers changing the image of Soave. A key to finding top quality Soave is to look for those, such as this one, that comes from the Classico subregion. Fortunately for consumers the price of Soave from these top producers has not caught up to the quality.… Read more
Category Archives: Italy
Cà Rugate, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) Monte Fiorentine 2015
($20): Both the 2015 and 2016 are in some markets simultaneously. They offer a superb example of the differences between the vintages, with 2015 being riper and 2016 being racier. Hence, something for everyone. Cà Rugate opts to use Garganaga exclusively from this 15-acre vineyard that sits about 600 feet above sea level. … Read more
Cà Rugate, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) Monte Fiorentine 2016
($20): This wine ticks all the right boxes. Cà Rugate is a top Soave producer. Monte Fiorentine, a single-vineyard bottling from their old vineyards with vines that are approximately 50 years old, according to Francesco Ganci, their Italian commercial direction, is their top Soave. … Read more
Ottella, Lugana Riserva (Veneto, Italy) “Molceo” 2014
($30): Wines like this one will make Lugana a common name. That Ottella could make a wine this polished in 2014, a “challenging” year, to say the least, shows the dedication of this producer. It’s floral and elegant, with just the right understated hints of tropical fruit.… Read more
Le Morette, Lugana DOC (Veneto, Italy) Mandolara 2016
($22): Lugana, a small DOC just south of Lake Garda, is a treasure trove of well-priced white wines. Le Morette’s single-vineyard Mandolara is just one example. The grape, formerly thought to be Trebbiano di Soave (and sometimes still referred to that on labels), is Turbiano, a distinctly different variety as determined by DNA analysis. … Read more
Cavalchina, Custoza Superiore (Veneto, Italy) “Amedeo” 2015
($18): The Custoza DOC, formerly known as Bianco di Custoza, has suffered in the past from watered-down versions made by co-ops and other industrial-sized producers. Cavalchina is trying to change the reputation and certainly will do so as more consumers taste their wines. … Read more
Arnaldo-Caprai, Colli Martani DOC (Umbria, Italy) “Grecante” 2016
($18, Wilson Daniels): Historically, white wines from Umbria, made from the Grechetto grape, were called Greco, Grechetto or Grecante. Arnaldo-Caprai, one of the region’s leading producers, opted from Grecante, but the grape name still appears on the label as well. This white combines freshness with an intriguing subtle nuttiness. … Read more
Arnaldo-Caprai, Montefalco Rosso DOC (Umbria, Italy) 2014
($20, Wilson Daniels): The major problem facing growers of Sagrantino di Montefalco, a prestigious DOCG in Umbria, is how to make the wine more approachable when young — Sagrantino has ferocious tannins — without eviscerating it. Enter the Montefalco Rosso DOC, which gives the consumer a chance get a hint of what the region has to offer. … Read more
Tenuta Sette Cieli, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Scipio” 2010
($92, Wilson Daniels): It’s not surprising to see more estates popping up in Bolgheri, the area of the Tuscan coast that’s home to super star such as, Sassicaia and Ornellaia. Moreover, it stands to reason that there’s potential for other producers to find the correct microclimates for their interpretation of wines made from the Bordeaux varieties. … Read more
Tenute Silvio Nardi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($60, Kobrand): Tenute Silvio Nardi produces classically framed Brunello that reveal their substantial charms slowly. They have vineyards both in the northwest and southeast section of the DOCG zone, which allows them to capture the virtues of each of those zones by using grapes from both of them for this wine. … Read more
Grignano, Chianti Rùfina (Tuscany, Italy) 2014
($18, Montcalm Wine Importers): Chianti Rùfina, the smallest of the eight subzones of Chianti, a vast area in the middle of Tuscany, accounts for only about three percent of the region’s production. By comparison, Chianti Classico, the best known of the subzones and the area located in the hills between Florence and Siena, produces ten times the amount of wine. … Read more
Ruffino, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) “Riserva Ducale” 2012
($25): Ruffino is one of the leading names in Chianti Classico, producing a range of traditionally styled wines at reasonable prices. Their top one, Riserva Ducale Oro (with a gold label), made only in the best vintages has an extraordinary ability to develop amazing complexity with bottle age.… Read more
Viticcio, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2014
($18): This is a masterful Chianti Classico that walks the line between the so-called “modern” and “traditional” styles. A hint of Merlot (2%) in the blend with Sangiovese (98%) adds fleshiness without being overt. The engaging herbal earthy notes still dominate. … Read more
Vietti, Barbera d’Asti DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Tre Vigne” 2015
($17, Dalla Terra Direct): Spoiler alert. This wine is a fantastic bargain for current consumption, even in the summer. For starters, Vietti is one of the superstar producers in Piedmont. Their Barolos are legendary, with comparable pricing. Vietti’s Barberas are equally enjoyable, albeit in an entirely different manner. … Read more
Fattoria Viticcio, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Greppico” 2015
($12): Fattoria Viticcio is best known for their lovely Chianti Classico and their Super Tuscan, Greppicaia, from Bolgheri. Add this satisfying Vermentino to the list. Fresh and lively, there’s a mouth-watering salinity to it that screams for this summer’s seafood. It has surprising — for Vermentino — density and alluring hint of bitterness in the finish.… Read more
Bricco dei Guazzi, Gavi DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Gavi di Gavi 2015
($14, Montcalm Wine Importers): Although consumers mostly identify Piedmont with its noble red wines, such as Barolo and Barbaresco, the region produces a superb array of whites, such as Gavi, which are opened with far less of a drum roll. For the Gavi di Gavi designation, all of the grapes must come exclusively from the town of Gavi, one of the 14 communes — and certainly one of the two or three best — that comprise the DOCG zone.… Read more
Cantine Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria/Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Grigia” 2016
($25, Montcalm Wine Importers): I have extolled the virtues of Cantine Lunae Bosoni in the past, particularly their Vermentini. There’s no reason to stop now: Their 2016 “Etichetta Grigia” (or Gray Label) Vermentino is an exciting wine. (They also produce a more expensive one, Etichetta Nero, a.k.a.… Read more
Medici Ermete, Colli Scandiano e Canossa DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) Malvasia Vino Frizzante Secco “Daphne” 2016
($18, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): This is labeled Vino Frizzante Secco, which means slightly bubbly and dry. But it’s not really dry. It is aromatic, reminiscent of Moscato, but with more weight. Great acidity keeps it fresh and lively, so it doesn’t come across as cloying despite the light sweetness. … Read more
Donnafugata, Passito di Pantelleria DOC (Italy) “Ben Ryè” 2015
($35): Baldo Palermo, a representative of Donnafugata, described the island of Pantelleria as, “A volcanic rock jutting from the sea,” where the major activity is “listening to the wind.” Hence it’s appropriate that this wine is called Ben Ryè, which means son of the wind. … Read more
Medici Ermete, Reggiano Lambrusco DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) “i Quercioli” NV
($12, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Lambrusco is making a dramatic comeback, judging from restaurants in New York City and elsewhere. Diligence and persistence by producers such as Medici Ermete has shown the world the joys of Lambrusco. An equal blend of Lambrusco Marani and Lambrusco Salamino, i Quercioli is a faintly fizzy, dark, almost purple, red wine with a delicate sweetness and gripping acidity. … Read more
Medici Ermete, Reggiano Lambrusco DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) “Concerto” 2016
($20, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Medici Ermete takes Lambrusco seriously, and it shows with the quality of their wines. This one, named Concerto, is the first single vineyard Lambrusco produced. It’s made entirely from Lambrusco Salamino grown on their Rampata estate. … Read more
Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Sarmassa 2012
($65, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Sarmassa is a well-regarded cru located in the village of Barolo itself, an area where the wines are allegedly more delicate, relatively speaking (this is Barolo, after all) compared to those from Serralunga d’Alba or Montforte d’Alba. … Read more
The ‘Cru’ of Soave: Another Attempt to Resurrect the Region
Soave, one of Italy’s great white wines, has an image problem, and, as a result, it gets no respect. Although I’m sure that must be frustrating for the producers, it’s a boon for consumers: The wines can be excellent but their prices fail to reflect their quality. … Read more
Nino Franco, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Vigneto della Riva di San Floriano 2016
($26): Prosecco has become ubiquitous, which, of course, has made it a marketing challenge for the top producers, such as Nino Franco. Why should a consumer pay $26 for Prosecco when plenty sell for less than half that? For this one, the answer is easy: It’s a far, far superior wine. … Read more
Gulfi, Sicilia Rosso IGT (Sicily, Italy) “Nero Bufaleffj” 2011
($45): Gulfi, the first estate in Sicily to give focus on site specificity to Nero d’Avola, continues to making stunning examples of wine from that grape. This one, from their Bufaleffj vineyard, is eye-opening for its balance and complexity, delivering a ying/yang of black fruit and savory flavors offset perfectly by a hint of bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Cantina Mascarello Bartolo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2012
($140, The Rare Wine Company): Although single vineyard bottlings are all the rage in Barolo and elsewhere, Maria Teresa Mascarello continues her father’s time-honored philosophy that Barolo is best when it’s a blend of vineyards. Mascarello’s Barolo is a blend of grapes from four vineyards they own, three in the village of Barolo itself, Rué, Cannubi, St.… Read more
Tiberio, Colline Pescaresi IGP (Abruzzo, Italy) Pecorino 2016
($21, The Sorting Table): Pecorino, the wine, not the cheese, is currently “hot,” which is surprising considering it was practically extinct as a grape variety as recently as two decades ago. Now there are probably 60 producers on the bandwagon. Although I’ve not sampled them all, it’s hard to imagine finding one better than Tiberio’s. … Read more
Prà, Soave (Veneto, Italy) “Otto” 2016
($18): Prà, one of Soave’s top producers and one of those responsible for the region’s renaissance, makes several Soave. Their top wine is from a single vineyard, Montegrande and is a blend of Garganega (70%) and Trebbiano di Soave. This one, Otto, named after a border collie, is their basic Soave made entirely from Garganega and aged exclusively in stainless steel tanks. … Read more
Ruggeri, Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Giustino B Extra Dry” 2015
($28): It seems as though everything with bubbles is now called Prosecco. And not just in the U.S. I’ve ordered Prosecco in Italy, have been poured a glass from a bottle labeled sparkling Soave and have had the sommelier insist that it was “Prosecco.” … Read more
Viticcio, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($24): Wines from the Chianti Classico region, which, remember is a distinct and more prestigious subzone of the greater Chianti area, continue to thrill. This one from Viticcio, a blend of Sangiovese (90%) with equal amounts of Merlot and Syrah, is very appealing even now, though its balance suggests more complexity will evolve over the next five or so years. … Read more
Donnafugata, Passito di Pantelleria DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Ben Rye” 2014
($30): Pantelleria, an island off the coast of Sicily that is closer to Africa than Rome, has the potential to produce wonderfully sweet wines. Donnafugata, one of Sicily’s top producers, consistently fulfills that potential with their Ben Rye, a wine made from the Muscat of Alessandria grape. … Read more
Tenuta Regaleali, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Perricone “Guarnaccio” 2014
($17): Conte Tasca d’Almerita’s Tenuta Regaleali, one of Sicily’s leading producers, has shown the world repeatedly that Sicily can produce superb wine. To their credit, they do not rest on their laurels. This wine, only their third vintage, is a good example of their broad thinking. … Read more
Santa Maria La Palma, Vermentino di Sardegna DOC (Sardinia, Italy) “Blu” 2016
($15): Vermentino, Sardinia’s most planted grape variety, has become “hot.” Even the French are starting to use the Italian name instead of the French name, Rolle. Vermentino does best in a hot climate with proximity to the sea, which makes Sardinia a perfect locale. … Read more
G.D. Vajra, Langhe DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Freisa “Kyè” 2013
($41): G.D. Vajra is one of Piedmont’s top producers. Their name on a label is a guarantee of quality. Freisa, on the other hand, is not so consistent. It is a close relative of Nebbiolo and, like that grape, it has a prominent tannic structure. … Read more
Sartarelli, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore (Marche, Italy) “Tralivio” 2015
($18): It’s easy to understand why Sartarelli, one of the region’s top producers, calls the wine Tralivio, which means around the olive trees, instead of using the tongue-twisting name of the DOC. Wines made from Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi are undergoing a renaissance as producers realize that the focus should be on quality over quantity. … Read more
Tiberio, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOP (Abruzzo, Italy) 2016
($15): There are eight varieties of Trebbiano, according to Ian D’Agata, the world’s foremost authority on Italian grapes, which results in great confusion because they are certainly not all the same. This wine is made from Trebbiano Abruzzese, not to be confused with the more pedestrian Trebbiano Toscana. … Read more
Luce, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($110, Folio Wine Imports): Luce della Vite, usually referred to as “Luce,” initially was a joint venture of the Mondavi and Frescobaldi families but is now owned solely by Frescobaldi. A Super Tuscan blend of roughly equal parts Sangiovese and Merlot grown in the Montalcino area, it does not conform to Italian winemaking regulations and therefore carries the IGT designation. … Read more
Attems, Venezia Giulia IGT (Italy) Pinot Grigio “Ramato” 2015
($18, Folio Fine Wine Partners): At first blush — no pun intended — you’d think this wine was a marketing genius, encompassing two very hot wine categories: Pinot Grigio and Rosé. But no, the pink — actually copper hue — of the wine comes from the light red color of the skins of the Pinot Grigio grape. … Read more
Ornellaia, Bolgheri Superiore (Tuscany, Italy) 2014
($175, Folio Wine Imports): Axel Heinz, Ornellaia’s winemaker, described 2014 as a vintage that was “challenging for reds.” He continued, “One thing we can rely on in Bolgheri is summer — but not in 2014.” The weather in July and August was dreadful — cool and rainy — which meant that in many sites, even some of the very best ones, the grapes did not achieve full ripeness. … Read more
Planeta, Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG (Sicily, Italy) 2015
($21, Palm Bay International): A harmonious blend of Nero d’Avola (60%) and Frappato, Planeta consistently makes an excellent example of Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s sole DOCG wine. The 2015 delivers a mixture of lovely cherry-like and mineral flavors wrapped in mild finely polished tannins. … Read more
Pieropan, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) La Rocca 2014
($35): Soave is back. Wines from this northeastern part of Italy used to rank with Chianti as America’s favorite Italian wine. Predictably, as popularity rose, quality slipped and Soave was all too often an innocuous white wine. No longer. Producers focused on quality have returned Soave to its rightful place in the world of wine. … Read more
Zenato, Lugana (Veneto, Italy) “San Benedetto” 2016
($17, Winebow): Lugana, a tiny appellation on the southern side of Lake Garda, is having a renaissance and Zenato, one of the area’s largest and best producers, has been responsible for it. These zesty white wines are made primarily from the Turbiana grape (a.k.a.… Read more
Villa Bucci, Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico Riserva DOCG (Marche, Italy) 2013
($49): A tiny — just over 350 acres — DOCG, Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico Riserva was carved out of the larger Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC in 2010. (They changed the name — putting the geographic name, Castelli di Jesi, before Verdicchio, the name of the grape — a year later, in 2011.)… Read more
Lugana: The Perfect Summertime White
With their crispness and cutting acidity, the refreshing wines of Lugana, a small Denominazione Origine Controllata (DOC) on the southern edge of Lake Garda in northern Italy’s Lake District, are perfect for drinking in the summer–or year round for that matter. … Read more
Vignamaggio, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) Terre di Prenzano 2015
($22, Montcalm Wine Imports): This is quintessential Chianti Classico — remember Chianti Classico is one of the prized subzones of the Chianti region — with bright fruitiness, a touch of herbal flavors and lip-smacking acidity that compels another sip. The richness of the 2015 vintage is apparent, but the team at Vignamggio avoids jamminess or overripe character. … Read more
Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane DOCG (Abruzzo, Italy) “Zanna” 2011
($38, Montcalm Wine Imports): The somewhat unwieldy name of Abruzzo’s sole DOCG and the reputation of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo for producing only inexpensive wine might put some consumers off from ordering this one. That would be a mistake. The Colline Teramane area within Abruzzo is uniquely well suited for the Montepulciano grape because its exposure to the sea and the elevation of the vineyards act as cooling influences, which allows the grapes to maintain their acidity thus instilling liveliness to the wines. … Read more
Giovanna Madonia, Romagna Albana Secco DOCG (Italy) “Neblina” 2014
($19): This category of wine grabbed headlines in 1987, more because of surprise than stature, when it was awarded Italy’s first DOCG for a white wine. Known then as Albana di Romagna, there was a collective bewilderment since many other white wine DOCs seemed more appropriate for elevation to Italy’s highest level of classification. … Read more
Pieropan, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) 2015
($20): Pieropan, one of the leading producers in Soave, makes at least two stunning single-vineyard wines. I remember having a 2005 from their La Rocca vineyard last year that was simply stunning — fresh and mature at once. So, it’s no surprise to me that their “regular” Soave Classico is delectable. … Read more
Cantina Lunae Bosoni, Rivera Liguria di Ponente DOC (Liguria, Italy) Pigato 2015
($24, Montcalm Wine Imports): Though Pigato is the same as the Vermentino grape, according to DNA analysis, it has a different flavor profile when transformed into wine, presumably because of where it’s planted. Indeed, Lunae’s 2015 Pigato, though equally enjoyable as their Vermentino, is different. … Read more
Cantina Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Lunae DOC (Liguria, Italy) “Niccolò V” 2010
($30, Montcalm Wine Imports): I don’t know enough about all the producers in Liguria to say that Lunae Bosoni is “the best.” But what I can say, after tasting their wines for several years now at Montcalm’s annual portfolio tasting, is that they are a superb producer. … Read more