($20, Jean-Marie Dechamps): Despite the “fume” in its name, I don’t find smokey notes consistently in wines from Pouilly-Fumé. Benoît Roumet, the director of Les Vins du Centre Loire, says he often has difficulty distinguishing wines from Pouilly-Fumé from its across the river town of Sancerre since the soil in many spots on both sides of the river is similar. … Read more
Category Archives: Publication
Man Vintners, Coastal Region (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2010
($9, Vineyard Brands): Since it’s never too early to think about warmer weather, put this one
on your list for summertime sipping. South Africa has more Chenin Blanc planted than any other country in the world. Producers there make a wonderful array of styles from bone dry to lusciously sweet. … Read more
CUNE, Rioja (Spain) “Monopole” Bianco 2008
($13, Pasternak Wine Imports): The two unusual things about this wine is the color–it’s a white Rioja–and the name. The official name is C.V.N.E. or Compañía Vinicola del Norte de España (The Northern Spanish Wine Company), but everyone refers to it simply as Cune. … Read more
Bodegas Bilbainas, Rioja (Spain) “Viña Zaco” 2006
($12, Aveniu Brands): The absence of oak aging means the bright and juicy cherry-like flavors of this Tempranillo (100%) are readily apparent. Lively and clean, spice nuances balance the fruit in this uncomplicated wine. Tannins are barely noticeable. If it were Italian, I’d call it a “pizza wine.” … Read more
Hugel & Fils, Alsace (France) Riesling 2008
($20, Frederick Wildman): Hugel, a family run firm established in picturesque town of Riquewihr in 1639, is one of Alsace’s best producers. This, their “basic” Riesling, is made from grapes grown in the surrounding area, which is a part of Alsace well known for the varietal. … Read more
Hugel & Fils, Alsace (France) Riesling “Jubilee” 2007
($55, Frederick Wildman): 
Hugel, along with Trimbach and Beyer, other stellar Alsace producers, vigorously oppose the Grand Cru categorization of Alsace vineyards despite their ownership in many vineyards that received Grand Cru status. They believe the classification system is flawed because it includes inferior sites that dilute quality. … Read more
Renaissance in South Africa
“We had to leapfrog the sanctions,” explained Simon Barlow, the affable owner of Rustenberg Wines in Stellenbosch, South Africa, as he described the dramatic transformation of his family’s estate following the democratic elections in South Africa in 1994 that marked the official end of apartheid. … Read more
Benoit Gautier, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) 2008
($16, Martin Scott): A slighter softer expression of Vouvray, there’s nonetheless enough acidity to keep the wine clean and fresh. Delicate and floral when tasted alone, it blossomed when consumed with savory sausages. The barest hint of sweetness became a perfect foil for the spice of the meat. … Read more
Les Clissages d’Or, Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) 2008
($12, Pasternak Wine Imports): The Clissages d’Or label is a part of the estate of Guy Saget, the very talented Loire producer, and represents their best vats of Muscadet. And it is very good Muscadet, indeed. It delivers the bracing vibrant–almost tooth rattling–acidity of Muscadet, but with an enticing chalky element and depth. … Read more
Trimbach, Alsace (France) Riesling “Cuvée R” 2008
($18, Diageo Chateau & Estates): Trimbach is one of the greatest producers in Alsace. Their range of Riesling–from their basic one that’s a blend from many vineyards to their sensational single vineyard Clos Ste Hune–is superb. The Cuvee R represents the best batches from their basic bottling and lies between it and their one labeled Frederic Emile, which comes their grand cru vineyards adjacent to the winery. … Read more
Budini, Mendoza (Argentina) Chardonnay 2009
($13, Vine Connections): Those who remember Argentine Chardonnay as heavy and clumsy
must try this bright and breezy one. A hint of toastiness in the nose and a similarly restrained creaminess on the palate adds complexity to this linear racy wine. … Read more
Montecillo, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Verdemar” 2009
($11, Underdog Wine Merchants): Montecillo makes wonderful Rioja. It turns out they do an admirable job with Albariño as well. The Verdemar has a certain Muscadet-like character to it with an appealing chalky minerality and bright acidity. It would be an excellent choice for simply broiled fish.… Read more
Drylands, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2009
($17, Franciscan Estates): A suave texture fills out the middle and balances the quintessential zesty–almost biting–character of this Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Not just an uplifting summertime wine, try it with oysters now. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 1, 2011… Read more
Le Pigeoulet en Provence, Vin de Pays de Vaucluse (Rhône Valley, France) 2008
($16): The Brunier family, owners of the prestigious Château du Vieux Télégraphe in Châteauneuf du Pape, produces this Grenache-based wine from vineyards located in two distinct areas. One lies just outside of the Châteauneuf appellation while the other is in the Côtes du Ventoux area. … Read more
Domaine Les Pallières, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Racines” 2007
($28, Kermit Lynch): Les Racines comes from parcels from the lower part of the estate, around the winery. Made from old vines (65 year average), it is a blend of Grenache (80%) Syrah and Cinsault (15%) and Clairette. It’s more overt at this stage than Terrasse du Diablo, conveying more power, richness and spice. … Read more
Domaine Les Pallières, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) “Terrasse du Diablo” 2007
($28, Kermit Lynch): 
With the 2007 vintage, there are two cuvées, this one and “Les Racines” (also reviewed this week), from this leading Gigondas producer. More similar than different, they represent different expressions of the estate. They are definitely not a “first” and “second” wine. … Read more
Georges DuBoeuf, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009
($13, W. J. Deutsch and Sons): Brouilly, the largest of the Beaujolais crus, is known for good, but not terribly concentrated, wines. This one clearly did read its script and shows why the locals are hailing the 2009 vintage in Beaujolais as one of the best ever. … Read more
Veramonte, Colchagua Valley (Chile) “Primus” 2006
($20): Primus is the flagship red wine of Veramonte, the Chilean winery established by Augustin Huneeus–a genius in the Chilean and American winery industry–in the 1990s. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (36%), Syrah (31%), Merlot (17%) and Carmenère, the 2006 Primus is lovely, as usual. … Read more
Malbec: Another Merlot?
Malbec is the new “black.” Then again, maybe not so new, since the wine from Cahors in south central France, the traditional home to Malbec, was known as the “black wine” in the 13th century because of its power and concentration. … Read more
Domaine Ostertag, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Heissenberg 2007
($40, Kermit Lynch): This wine truly deserves it Grand Cru designation. It has an alluring, almost lacey, combination of clean minerality and delicate white floral notes. The interplay between the two along with subtle peach-like nuances means you never tire of tasting–drinking–it. … Read more
Guy Saget, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2008
($24, Pasternak Wine Imports): Anyone who wants a lesson in the French concept of terroir–the notion that where the grapes grow determines the nature of the wine–should taste this Sancerre and Saget’s 2008 La Petite Perrière (also reviewed this week) side by side. … Read more
Domaine Vincent Delaporte, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2009
($23, Vineyard Brands): The 2009 vintage was excellent in the Loire Valley, as it was in much of France. And this wine shows it. With many a Sancerre today coming across as dilute and lacking the unique character of the appellation, it’s a real pleasure to taste Delaporte’s. … Read more
Domaine Lecomte, Quincy (Loire Valley, France) Vieilles Vignes 2009
($20, Michael Skurnik Wines): Although a less well-known Loire appellation, Quincy wines are popular around Boston because of the suburb of the same name (but a different pronunciation (the wine is pronounced, “cahn-see”). This is a lively and intense expression of crisp and slightly earthy Sauvignon Blanc with a captivating floral component. … Read more
Guy Saget, Loire Valley (France) ‘La Petite Perrière’ 2008
($10, Pasternak Wine Imports): With clear Sauvignon Blanc character, this wine falls somewhere between the riper style common in California and the electrifying signature of the ones coming from the Marlborough region of New Zealand. Although it lacks the chalky minerality–and the price–of Saget’s Sancerre (also reviewed this week), it’s a good choice as a vibrant everyday kind of wine to complement take-out Thai food.… Read more
Domaine Rimbert, Saint-Chinian (Languedoc, France) ‘Les Travers de Marceux’ 2008
($14, Jenny and Francois Selections): The usual Mediterranean blend of Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvedre has come together nicely in this moderately full-bodied red wine. Filled with a combination of spice, herbs and red fruit-like flavors, it’s balanced and fresh. It would be a good choice for simple meat or even well seasoned chicken on the grill.… Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) Sauvignon Blanc /Semillon “SBS” 2009
($23): Although winemakers around the world frequently blend Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, the grape names are not often seen on the label together. Adding Semillon to Sauvignon Blanc is a time-honored way of muting the pungency of the latter, which is the result in this wine.… Read more
La Vieille Ferme, Ventoux (Rhône, France) 2009
($10, Vineyard Brands): The Perrin family, owners of the renowned Chateau Beaucastel in Châteauneuf du Pape, have consistently made solid “everyday” wines under their Vieille Ferme label from grapes and wine they purchase. A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault, it delivers a mid-weight combination of fresh cherry-like fruit flavors and zesty spice notes. … Read more
Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay ‘Village’ 2008
($20, Wilson Daniels): 
Kumeu River is one of the best, if not the best, Chardonnay producers in New Zealand. They make a stunning array of Chardonnays that redefines what can be done with that varietal in the New World. They have three levels of Chardonnay that they have modeled on the Burgundy hierarchy of village wine, premier cru and grand cru. … Read more
WillaKenzie Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2009
($20): Similarly stylish to their Pinot Blanc, WillaKenzie’s Pinot Gris is more in the full-bodied Alsace style rather than the lighter Italian Pinot Grigio rendition. Those who prefer absolutely dry wines will be disappointed because of the ever so slight hint of sweetness. … Read more
WillaKenzie Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Blanc 2009
($21): 
WillaKenzie makes lovely wines exclusively from their estate-grown grapes. They are best known for their stylish Pinot Noir–approximately 70% of their vineyards are devoted to that varietal–but they also make excellent examples of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. They planted Pinot Blanc in the early and mid-1990s, which means the vines are starting to enter a mature stage and are capable of making more complex wines. … Read more
Gifts for the Wine Lover
Friends and professional colleagues always tell me they shy away from giving me wine. They profess not to know what to give. They say that they don’t want to embarrass themselves with an “ordinary” bottle. Those excuses, and all the others, are silly. … Read more
Grant Burge, Barossa (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Miamba” 2008
($27, Wilson Daniels): 
Grant Burge’s Shiraz wines beautifully reflect their origins. Their power and intensity will not be to everyone’s tastes, but they are distinctive and a classic example of what the Barossa has to offer. He purchased the Miamba vineyard in 1983 when it was bare land and planted it so the vines are in their mature stage and offer up everything the site has to offer. … Read more
Villa Maria, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Merlot/Cabernet/Malbec “Cellar Selection” 2008
($18, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates): Villa Maria is one of New Zealand’s leading producers who delivers consistent quality–and value–across a broad range of wines. They have four “tiers” of wines. In descending order of stature and price they are Single Vineyard, Reserve, Cellar Selection and Private Bin. … Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Alsace Grand Cru (Alsace, France) Riesling Altenberg de Bergheim 2005
($50, Quintessential): The Grand Cru classification of vineyards occurred in Alsace roughly 50 years later than it did in Burgundy. But similar to Burgundy, Grand Cru in Alsace doesn’t automatically mean the wine will be great. The producer is still the most important element in determining quality. … Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Alsace (France) 2009
($20, Quintessential): The appealing aromatic spice of Gewurztraminer tickles your nostrils and palate the instant you sample this wine. Paradoxically, a bare hint of sweetness actually amplifies the wine’s spiciness. Not overdone, it would be fine with roast pork or chili-laden fare.… Read more
Doña Paula, Mendoza (Argentina) Chardonnay “Los Cardos” 2009
($10, Vineyard Brands): Most Chardonnay in this price range are sappy and sweet. Not this
one. Not surprisingly, tropical fruit flavors predominate in this straightforward wine, but there’s much better acidity–a bright lemony touch–than is usually found in Chardonnays at this price. … Read more
Neil Ellis, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chardonnay 2009
($17, Vineyard Brands): Bright and stony, this invigorating Chardonnay offers far more complexity and sophistication than most at this price. An alluring flinty–almost smoky–quality is reminiscent of Chablis. Consumers looking for more richness and a fatter style of Chardonnay will be disappointed. … Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Alsace Grand Cru (France) Riesling Altenberg de Bergheim 2005
($50, Quintessential): The Grand Cru classification of vineyards occurred in Alsace roughly 50 years later than it did in Burgundy. But similar to Burgundy, Grand Cru in Alsace doesn’t automatically mean the wine will be great. The producer is still the most important element in determining quality, and Lorentz is a great producer. … Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer 2009
($20, Quintessential): The appealing aromatic spice of Gewurztraminer tickles your nostrils and palate the instant you sample this wine. Paradoxically, a bare hint of sweetness actually amplifies the wine’s spiciness. Not overdone, it would be fine with roast pork or chili-laden fare.… Read more
Doña Paula, Mendoza (Argentina) Chardonnay “Los Cardos” 2009
($10, Vineyard Brands): Most Chardonnays in this price range are sappy and sweet. Not this one. Not surprisingly, tropical fruit flavors predominate in this straightforward wine, but there’s much better acidity–a bright lemony touch–than is usually found in Chardonnays at this price. … Read more
Neil Ellis, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chardonnay 2009
($17, Vineyard Brands): Bright and stony, this invigorating Chardonnay offers far more complexity and sophistication than most at this price. An alluring flinty, almost smoky quality is reminiscent of Chablis. Consumers looking for more richness and a fatter style of Chardonnay will be disappointed. … Read more
2009 Burgundies: A First Look
The Bordelais are not the only ones licking their chops as they offer the 2009 vintage for sale. Burgundians too are smiling as they taste their 2009s currently aging in barrels. In the words of Philippe Prost, the technical director at Bouchard Père et Fils, the wines are, “La beauté du Diable,” a French idiom that roughly means “too good to be true.”… Read more
Maison Nicolas Perrin, Hermitage Blanc (Rhône, France) 2008
($68, Vineyard Brands): Two Rhone Valley powerhouses, the Perrin family of Châteauneuf du Pape, and Nicholas Jaboulet of the eponymous house in Hermitage, have forged an alliance and brought out a new line of wines. Judging from this one, it will be a successful project. … Read more
Bodegas Fariña, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon (Castilla y León, Spain) “Peromato” 2009
($10, Winebow): In addition to this wine, Bodegas Fariña also produces the Dama de Toro line from, not surprisingly, the Toro region. Though this one and their wines from Toro are 100% Tempranillo, they are quite different. Tasting them side-by-side, which I recommend, reminds us of the importance of where the grapes grow. … Read more
Dama de Toro, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) Tempranillo 2009
($12, Winebow): Though the muscular signature of wines from Toro is apparent, this wine remains lively and well balanced. There’s an engaging combination of spice, earthy notes and black cherry-like fruit. Mild tannins impart structure in this mid-weight wine without intruding.… Read more
Wild Rock, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2008
($18, Kobrand): Central Otago is one of the best areas in New Zealand for Pinot Noir because of its cool climate. And this one is a good example of why the region has the reputation for the varietal that it does. … Read more
Casa Silva, Colchagua Valley (Chile) Carménère Reserva 2008
($12, Vin Divino): This stylish Carménère balances ripe black fruit flavors with an alluring savory quality characteristic of the varietal. The combination gives it delightful complexity, as opposed to a bombastic fruit bomb. Fine tannins and a lengthy finish just make it that much more remarkable. … Read more
Bouchard Père et Fils, Le Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2007
($91, Henriot, Inc.): Bouchard has substantial holdings in Corton from which they make consistently fine examples. This is one of them. Showing its grand cru status, it conveys a core of ripe–almost sweet–fruit encircled by supple tannins. Remarkably forward, the charm of the 2007 vintage is apparent. … Read more
Bouchard Père et Fils, Beaune-Grèves (Burgundy, France) “Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus” 2007
($97, Henriot, Inc.): This is Bouchard’s flagship wine from the heart of the famed Beaune-Grèves vineyard. At trade tastings, they even offer it after the conventionally more highly regarded wines from the Corton appellation. Lighter and more forward than usual–reflective of the 2007 vintage–the mixture of bright red fruit and a stoniness still dances across the palate. … Read more
Perrin et Fils, Côtes du Rhône Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) Reserve 2009
($12, Vineyard Brands): I wish regulations prohibited the use of Reserve when that’s all the producer makes (or exports). And the fact is, this wine needs no labeling hype. It’s very good. Made from the typical blend of white Rhone grapes–Viognier, Marsanne, Roussane, Bourblanc and Grenache Blanc–it’s floral and refined. … Read more