($11, Old Bridge Cellars): The label rightly informs you it’s prickly, courtesy of a natural spritziness.  What the label fails to mention is that it’s a touch sweet.  Not in a cloying way—actually a quite attractive sweetness—but a surprising one nonetheless. … Read more

($35, Old Bridge Cellars):  One of my biggest surprises tasting wines was discovering how good Australian Riesling is.  The conventional wisdom is that Australia is hot (an overly broad generalization), and that Riesling needs cool climate (not always, it turns out). … Read more

($15, Old Bridge Cellars):  Wines from Western Australia typically show more restraint compared to those from other parts of the country because the cooling influences of the Indian and Southern Oceans mean the grapes achieve slower, more balanced ripeness.  This delectable Chardonnay supports that generalization with a lovely combination of toastiness and subtle creamy notes that sit atop a haunting flintiness. … Read more

($18, Old Bridge Cellars):  This seamless blend of roughly two-thirds Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon harnesses the best of both grapes.  It has the bright herbal aspect of Sauvignon Blanc softened just a bit by the lanolin texture of Semillon. The Semillon rounds out the wine without obliterating the invigorating pungency of the Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more

($15, Old Bridge Cellars):  Founded in 1974, Plantagenet was the first winery in the Great Southern Region of Western Australia.  They are well known for their stunning Rieslings, which develop beautifully with bottle age and are among Australia’s best.  Less well-known is their second label, Omrah, which represents great value. … Read more

($17, Hess Collection):  An unconventional blend of Semillon (37%), Muscat (20%), Gewürztraminer (20%), Pinot Gris (19%) and Chardonnay suggests that this wine was an afterthought—a way to use leftovers—not planned.  Whatever the motivation, it’s an engaging blend that works.  Flowery aromatics reinforce its lightness (11.5% stated alcohol) while a lovely lanolin-like texture, undoubtedly from the Semillon, contributes body. … Read more

($65, FWE Imports): One of the reasons Penfolds is a great producer is that it turns out a wide spectrum of distinctive wines even within a single varietal. The St. Henri Shiraz is, as they call it, a counterpoint to Grange.… Read more

($23, FWE Imports):  Very different from a Barossa Shiraz, Penfolds’s Bin 128 Shiraz shows the importance of location within Australia, a country with scores of different climates.  Similar to their Barossa Shiraz, this one from Coonawarra comes exclusively from their grapes. … Read more

($16, Banfi Vintners):  Riesling “Grand Barossa” 2010 ($16, Banfi Vintners):  I’ve had so many fine Rieslings from Australia that I should not be surprised by another one.  But this one surprised me, not because it was so good, but because of the origin of the grapes. … Read more

($50, Banfi Vintners):  This is Château Tanunda’s top-of-the-line Shiraz.  Although slightly “bigger” than their regular bottling, its grandeur and appeal comes from more complexity, not more power or extract.  It’s an exciting Barossa Shiraz because along with the expected intensity comes layers of spice and even a subtle touch of chocolaty notes. … Read more

($18, Banfi Vintners): This classic Barossa Shiraz shows why the region is justifiably well-known for the variety.  Big and brawny, but not overdone or flamboyant, it packs plenty of power, spice and even some chocolaty elements.  It’s refreshing to taste a Shiraz that has complexity and not just alcohol and extract. … Read more

($80, FWE Imports):  In contrast to Penfolds’ flagship wine, Grange, which is a multi-regional blend aged in American oak barrels, this stunning Shiraz comes exclusively from the Barossa Valley and is aged in large and small French oak barrels.  Not even a decade old–the RWT (Red Winemaking Trial) Shiraz debuted in 2000 with the 1997 vintage–it has already become one of Penfolds’ most sought-after wines. … Read more

($60, FWE Imports):  Yattarna, Penfolds’ top of the line Chardonnay, has undergone a welcome transition from oaky and oily to this refined, creamy, toasty version.  Penfolds attributes it to the source of the fruit, the cool Adelaide Hills, which gives less ripe grapes with more freshness to the wine. … Read more

($15, FWE Imports):  It’s incredible that Penfolds, with its vast line-up of wines from its flagship Grange at $400 a bottle to ones like this, rarely gets it wrong.  This polished blend marries fruity plumy notes with savory gamy ones.  It is supple, yet not soft. … Read more

($27, Wilson Daniels):  Grant Burge’s Shiraz wines beautifully reflect their origins.  Their power and intensity will not be to everyone’s tastes, but they are distinctive and a classic example of what the Barossa has to offer.  He purchased the Miamba vineyard in 1983 when it was bare land and planted it so the vines are in their mature stage and offer up everything the site has to offer. … Read more

($27, Winebow):  As a former winemaker for Penfolds in charge of Grange, their iconic Shiraz, Daryl Groom should know something about that varietal.  And judging by this wine, he certainly does.  Ripe and powerful–it is, after all, Barossa Shiraz–it’s not over the top, carrying the stated 14.9% alcohol very well. … Read more

($17, Winebow): Daryl Groom knows a thing or two about winemaking, having made wine in California for two decades.  He’s probably best known for being the winemaker at Penfolds in Australia responsible for their iconic Grange in the mid 1980s.  But he also was Penfolds’ chief white winemaker, which probably explains why this Sauvignon Blanc is so good. … Read more

($3, Down Under Cellars):  Yes, three dollars.  Let me repeat: three dollars!  There is nothing remotely complex about this wine, but it does display pure red berry flavor in a medium-bodied package.  No oak, no subtle secondary notes, no layered nuances. … Read more

($80, Hess Imports):  When I first tasted this wine–their current release–I immediately was reminded of what Louis Latour (the father of the current head of that renowned Burgundy firm) once told me, “Great wines always taste good.”  Those who love young vigorous Shiraz are in for a treat because this one has all you’d expect, plus elegance and refinement–two words not usually used to describe Barossa Shiraz. … Read more

($40, Clos du Val Wine Co.): A blend of Shiraz (81%) and Cabernet Sauvignon, Cephas is the flagship wine of Taltarni, Bernard Portet and Clos du Val’s outpost in Australia.  This bold red–with slightly smoky with gamey undertones–still maintains the hallmark elegance of Clos du Val’s style. … Read more

($13, Clos du Val Wine Company): Taltarni has fashioned a “friendlier” version of Sauvignon Blanc compared to the more bracing ones that come from Marlborough, New Zealand. It conveys a little creaminess that rounds out the pungency inherent to the varietal. … Read more

($30, Bluewater Wine Company): Wines from Western Australia, including their Chardonnays, do not fit the conventional mold for Australian wines.  The Chardonnays in general, like this one, are leaner–yet still flavor packed–and racier compared to their South Australian counterparts.  Howard Park, one of Western Australia’s top producers, has fashioned this wine with an almost Riesling-like vibrancy that complements the green appley flavors.… Read more

($13, Vineyard Brands): The rich, almost chewy, full bodied wine has a softness with supple tannins which makes it easy to drink now.  Bold, but not particularly brawny, this Shiraz emphasizes straightforward plummy black fruit flavors rather than the peppery side often characteristic of that varietal. … Read more

($32, Australian Premium Wine Collection): The tongue twisting name–‘land of youth’ in the aboriginal language–should not prevent you for buying this wine.  Not for the faint of heart, this wine’s ripe strawberry-like fruit flavor and its heady effect make a paradoxical combination that actually works with robust wintertime fare. … Read more

($22, Vintage New World): Looking for an excellent $20 Chardonnay?  Look no further. If your image of Australian Chardonnay is that of an oaky blockbuster, this wine will change your perception.  The Margaret River area of Western Australia has the potential to produce some of Australia’s most elegant wines and this one’s a good example.… Read more

($22, Vintage New World): Wines from Peter Pratten’s Capel Vale property consistently fulfill the potential of Western Australia.  Pratten, a radiologist by training before entering the wine business, has spent his medical career crisscrossing Western Australia, and as a dividend developed a clear knowledge of what varieties grow best in each locale.… Read more

($20): Oatley is a huge name in the Australian wine industry, having founded Rosemount, a company whose wines  helped spread the popularity of Australian wines in general. So when he starts a new label and chooses Mudgee, not the most well-known area in Australia for premium grapes, everyone takes notice. … Read more

($38, The Hess Group): Although this very ripe Shiraz highlights the plummy aspect of the varietal, it conveys a subtle pepperiness in the finish.  Despite the 14.5% alcohol, it is balanced, not ‘over the top.’  This big, bold, juicy Shiraz should have widespread appeal.… Read more

($38, Hess Imports): Although best known for Shiraz, the Barossa is an excellent site for Cabernet Sauvignon as well.  The very ripe fruit notes border on pruney, but the overall flavor profile is quite broad, with hints of cedar and smoke. … Read more

($55, Hess Imports): A deep, dark Shiraz with plenty of power, Lehmann’s Eight Songs bottling has supple tannins.  The 14.5% alcohol is not out of place here because of the ripe, concentrated black fruit elements.  Emphasizing the juicy plummy side of Shiraz rather than the spice, this wine has remarkable smoothness and will appeal to those who value intensity over elegance.… Read more

($75, Hess Imports): This, Peter Lehmann’s top end Shiraz, is a remarkable example of Barossa Shiraz at its best.  Concentrated and intense as expected given the origin, it’s the vibrancy and layers of flavors–black cherry, mint and other herbs–that make it notable. … Read more

($55, Bluewater Wine Company): Howard Park’s most upscale bottling of Cabernet comes from a broad geographic area–Western Australia–as opposed to the smaller Margaret River or Great Southern appellation.  It reflects a desire to blend the best batches regardless of origin.  The combine the multifaceted character of Cabernet–cassis-like fruit and herbal, non-fruit flavors–harmoniously in this elegant and silky wine. … Read more

($27, Bluewater Wine Company): A more restrained style of Shiraz than the norm, this one from the Margaret River area marries herbal–even slightly minty–elements with plum-like flavors.  It delivers an alluring breadth of flavors over pure power. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 15, 2008

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($25, Bluewater Wine Company): This wine demonstrates the class and breeding of Margaret River Cabernets.  A subtle hint of mint and touches of licorice lend an exotic edge.  Plush and juicy, it not just fruit-filled, but has wonderful balance and great complexity.… Read more

($25, Bluewater Wine Company): Similar to Howard Park’s Scottsdale Shiraz, this Cabernet focuses on the ripe fruit character of Cabernet–ripe plum and blackberry–as opposed to the its savory side.  Its velvety, plush texture makes it very appealing now. 88 Michael Apstein Jul 15, 2008

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($27): Howard Park, one of the top producers in Western Australia, bottles two different Shiraz releases, this one from the Great Southern Region, and one from Margaret River, that show the diversity of wines coming from Western Australia.  This rendition emphasizes the plumy, almost jammy, side of Shiraz. … Read more

($30, Scott Street Portfolio): This is a good example of Cabernet from the Margaret River area of Western Australia, a region known for producing more elegantly styled wines than the remainder of that continent.  A touch of mint and other herbal notes acts as an attractive condiment to the juicy fruit flavors, rather than overpowering them.… Read more

($18, Scott Street Portfolio): The Margaret River area is justifiably known for the elegance of its wines compared to those from other parts of Australia.  This Shiraz fits that mold.  Mint and nuances of other herbal flavors complement the primary juicy black fruit impression of this mid weight wine. … Read more

($25, Vintage New World): Larry Cherubino, founder and winemaker at The Yard, has great experience finding top-notch vineyards in Western Australia since he was winemaker at Houghton’s, the region’s largest producer.  This dazzling Riesling reinforces what a great area Mt. Barker is for the varietal. … Read more

($15, Vineyard Brands): Although Hunter Valley is considered the closest wine region to Sydney, wine is produced closer to the capital in the Sydney Wine Region, where the industry got its start in 1788.  This stylish Chardonnay dispels the prejudice that Australian Chardonnays are heavy and oak-laden with its minerality, lemony acidity and creaminess.… Read more

($30, Vintage New World): Bright and pungent, but not overly piercing, this Sauvignon Blanc has an attractive texture and weight in the mid-palate.  Chalky minerality complemented by lemony nuances spread across the mouth. It comes across as less edgy than the typical version from neighboring New Zealand.… Read more

($16, Tom Eddy Wines): SSB or SBS-depending on the primary grape-is a popular blend in Western Australia that deserves more recognition on our shores.  The Semillon fills out the Sauvignon Blanc without dominating it. The edginess of Sauvignon Blanc persists, especially in the finish, but there is a lovely softness and creaminess that comes through.… Read more

($45, Vintage New World): The Adelaide Hills region of South Australia is cooler than most winegrowing areas of Australia and has the potential to produce grapes whose flavors and tannins develop nicely at lower sugar levels.   Hence, the wines, such as this Shiraz, can be concentrated but retain elegance because they are not alcoholic or over the top. … Read more

($30, Vintage New World): Viognier is a tough grape to vinify.  Often the wine can be heavy and blowsy or alcoholic because the grapes need to be very ripe to transmit the requisite aroma and flavor to the wine.  John Edwards, owner of The Lane Vineyard, has done a fabulous job with his 2006. … Read more

($22, Tom Eddy Wines): Despite its 14.5% alcohol, which it carries beautifully, Capel Vale’s Shiraz bares little resemblance to the powerfully concentrated ones from the Barossa Valley. There is no lack of fruit flavor or weight here, but what impresses is the exotic spices, bacon fat, complexity and great length. … Read more

($35, Tom Eddy Wines): This nicely balanced wine has plenty of vibrant acidity to complement the ripe black cherry fruit.  More concentrated and deeper than many Shiraz from Western Australia, it still captures the finesse and complexity characteristic of wines from that region.… Read more

($40, Tom Eddy Wines): Cherubino was the winemaker at Houghton, a leading producer in Western Australia, and a senior winemaker at New Zealand’s prestigious Craggy Range, before setting out on his own.  Judging from this, his first Shiraz, he will succeed at this endeavor as well. … Read more

($25, Tom Eddy Wines): Australia is well-known for its off-the-wall naming of wines, but this one wins the prize.  It’s hard to know the name of the wine from reading the label.  Is it Max, or Off the Leash?  Thankfully, the quality and refinement of this Shiraz Viognier blend is clear. … Read more

($55, McWilliams of Australia): The vines for this wine, some of which are still producing fruit, were first planted in the Laira Vineyard in 1896 by Captain Stentiford, an English sea captain.  McWilliams has avoided the temptation to make an over-the-top Shiraz from low-yielding vines that produce concentrated fruit. … Read more

($12, Scott Street Portfolio): A subtle peppery component in this wine acts as an attractive counterpoint to the very ripe, plumy flavors characteristic of Aussie Shiraz.  Another plus is an appealing freshness in the finish that balances the fruity ripeness. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 23, 2007

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