Category Archives: Australia

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Bin 707” 2004

($88, Foster’s Wine Estates): Penfolds’ Bin 707, their best Cabernet, excels in 2004.  The fruit comes from vineyards in Coonawarra and Barossa, including their famed Block 42, home to the world’s oldest Cabernet vines.  According to Peter Gago, Penfolds’ head winemaker, the Barossa provides particularly attractive Cabernet in cooler years like 2004. … Read more

Wynns, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “John Riddoch” 2004

($60, Foster’s Wine Estates): Wynns’ best Cabernet, the John Riddoch bottling is made entirely from fruit grown on their vineyards in the heart of Coonawarra.  It’s a barrel selection of their best Cabernet, according to Sue Hodder, Wynns’ senior winemaker.  She’s not looking for the biggest style wine when she selects barrels, and will eliminate those with hard tannins because she is looking for parcels that will make an elegant, polished kind of wine. … Read more

Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling 2005

($17, Brown Forman): Wakefield has fashioned a vibrant, bone dry Riesling with long, limey flavors from grapes grown in South Australia’s Clare Valley, north of the Barossa.  Despite its northern locale, which should make it too hot (remember north equals heat Down Under) for a delicate variety like Riesling, the diurnal temperature variation in the Clare produces riveting, lively Rieslings. … Read more

Fire Block, Watervale (Clare Valley, South Australia) Grenache “Old Vine” 2003

($19, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): It’s rare for a young wine to deliver mature flavors, but this 100% Grenache, aged in old oak barrels, does.  It has an alluring combination of bright raspberries — characteristic of Clare Valley Grenache I’m told — spice and hints of caramel, which I usually associated with older, developed wines.… Read more

Philip Shaw, Orange (South Australia, Australia) Sauvignon Blanc “No. 19” 2005

($22, Cumulus Wines): Philip Shaw, one of Australia’s and the world’s great winemakers, has finally set off on his own.  After being winemaker at Lindemans, Rosemount and Southcorp, he has finally established his own winery in Orange.  I assumed his wines would be good, but I never expected this Sauvignon Blanc to have such a stunning combination of subtle creaminess and an invigorating bite.… Read more

Rutherglen Estates, Rutherglen (Victoria, Australia) “The Alliance” 2005

($14, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Here is my vote for the best Rhône-style white wine produced outside of France. And it will give most Rhone Valley white wines a run for their money. Rutherglen’s Alliance, a marvelous blend of Marsanne and Viognier, has the hint of apricots often found in Rhone whites, but with a lightness that is often lacking in those wines.… Read more

Wynns Coonawarra Estate, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2002

($16, PWG Vintners): Known simply as Wynns Black Label in Australia, their Cabernet Sauvignon delivers reliably every year. The 2002, with its herbal and mint nuances combined with attractive fleshiness, is no exception. Never, jammy or overblown, their Cabernet often develops beautifully with bottle aging as demonstrated by stellar examples from the 1970s, which are still delicious today.… Read more

Australia’s western frontier: Maverick vintners make sophisticated, well-priced wines on the other side of the Outback

Everyone knows about Australia’s inexpensive, fruit-driven, mass-produced wines — think Yellow Tail, the largest-selling wine brand in U.S. food stores by dollar volume, according to ACNielsen.

But there is a wine-producing part of the country that shatters just about every aspect of that image.… Read more