Category Archives: Publication

Te Awanga Estate, Hawke’s Bay (New Zealand) Syrah 2018

($28):  Yes, New Zealand makes distinctive Sauvignon Blanc.  As those late-night television ads proclaim, “but wait, there’s more.”  And indeed, New Zealand produces more than Sauvignon Blanc, including Syrah, as exemplified by this one.  Hawke’s Bay lies on the east coast of the north island and is well suited for reds, such as Syrah and the Bordeaux varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. Read more

Domaine Pélaquié, Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2021

($15, Bowler):  I am reviewing this bargain-priced beauty again for emphasis since I just tasted it again.  This seductive white shows the potential of white wines from the southern Rhône.  A subtle peach-like character merges with a firm minerality.  The combination delights the palate and invigorating acidity in the finish magnifies it charms. Read more

A Greek White Instead of Rosé

Memorial Day means summer, which, of course to some people means rosé.  But for me it means light to mid-weight white wines with energy, verve, and most of all, character.  There are lots of French whites that fit that category, from zippy Muscadet to flinty village Chablis, to simple Bourgogne Blanc, to racy Sancerre. … Read more

Baron de Ley, Rioja Blanco Reserva (Spain) “Tres Viñas” 2019

($16, Carolina Wine Brands):  Baron de Ley’s white Rioja Reserva has an entirely different — and weightier — profile compared to their regular bottling.  The effects of oak-aging is apparent, but not intrusive.  It adds weight and gravitas without dominating.  Though there is more “oomph” here, it’s not a fruity wine, but paradoxically conveys an attractive austerity and an engaging hint of bitterness in the finish. Read more

Vignerons Laudun Chusclan, Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “Éléments Luna” 2022

($15):  Laudun is an unusual Côte du Rhône Village because it produces a hefty amount of appealing white wines, like this one from the local co-operative.  A versatile wine, this lively mid-weight beauty delivers a hint of white peaches without any heaviness so it would work well as a stand-alone aperitif. Read more

Papapietro Perry, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Pommard Clones” 2020

($82):  The lush Papapietro Perry Pommard Clones bottling is the boldest of Papapietro’s trio of Pinot Noir releases, displaying ripe black fruit notes.  Like their two other bottlings, this Pinot Noir displays a velvety texture.  Reflective of its 14.4 percent stated alcohol, a touch of heat comes through in its slightly sweet finish. Read more

Tenuta di Capezzana’s Ghiaie della Furba

In 1979, Ugo Conti Bonacossi, owner of Tenuta di Capezzana, the leading estate in Carmignano, created a unique Super Tuscan wine, Ghiaie della Furba (literally, pebbles along the Furba stream).  It should come as no surprise that a grower in Carmignano should make a Super Tuscan because, after all, Carmignano, not Bolgheri, was the birthplace of the concept. … Read more

Cline Family Cellars, Carneros (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay “Hat Strap” 2021

($30):  The Carneros region of Sonoma, and Napa for that matter, is cooler because it abuts San Pablo Bay, which funnels cool Pacific Ocean air into the vineyards.  Despite the cooling maritime influences, Cline has managed to create a Chardonnay with substance, reflected by its 14.5 percent stated alcohol, but without going overboard. Read more

Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Pratt Vineyard, Vine Hill Road 2020

($65):  This sleek and racy Chardonnay is the bookend to Tongue Dancer’s tropically infused Bacigalupi Vineyard bottling.  With a modest 13.1 percent stated alcohol, the taut Pratt Vine Hill Chardonnay delights the plate with flinty and mineral nuances.  It unfolds gloriously as it sits in the glass so don’t be put off by its initial reticence. Read more

Domaine de la Mordorée, Lirac (Rhône Valley, France) “La Dame Rousse” 2020

($35, Kysela Pere et Fils):  Lirac, a lesser-known appellation across the Rhône River from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is, like that more well-known neighbor, also a cru of the Rhône, a distinction given to a village and its surroundings that makes distinctive wines.  So, looking at the Rhône quality pyramid, Lirac sits with Gigondas, Vacqueryas, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and other crus, at the top. Read more

Paul Hobbs, West Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2021

($80):  The Sonoma Coast AVA is enormous, even encompassing the Russian River Valley, a warmer locate.  Growers whose vineyards were closer to the Pacific would claim their wines came from “the real Sonoma Coast.”  Finally, in 2022 The West Sonoma Coast, a strip closest to the Pacific Ocean, was rightly carved out of the greater Sonoma Coast AVA and given its own AVA. Read more