Gallina de Piel, Calatayud (Aragón, Spain) “Mimetic” 2018

($15, Bluest Sky Group):  Though I’ve given some background on the Gallina de Piel wines previously, it bears repeating because their wines represent great bargains.  So, it’s worth hearing the story again.  Two sommeliers, one of whom, David Seijas, worked at El Bulli, named the best restaurant in the world five times by Restaurant magazine, founded Gallina de Piel.  (Which transliterates into English as “chicken skin” from Spanish, the equivalent of goose bumps in English.)  They travel around Spain finding unique wines to bottle under that label.  This one delivers mild dark fruit flavors, but is not overly fruity.  Good acidity keeps it fresh.  A bit of earthiness lurks underneath the suave patina.  An ideal amount of tannic structure supports without intruding.  It is the Spanish equivalent of a pizza wine, or a wine for take-out roast chicken, or burgers, or tapas.  You get the picture.   It’s a great buy.
90 Michael Apstein Feb 2, 2021