Santo Wines, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko 2018

($22):  Although the best expression of Assyrtiko is from Santorini, not all Santorini Assyrtiko express the saline minerality similarly.  Though grape and site is important, producer remains the critical element when selecting a wine, here and elsewhere.  This Assyrtiko, one of four, from Santo Wines, a 1,200-member cooperative established on the island in 1947, is perfectly fine, crisp and clean, with citrus-y rather than saline notes.  Lacking a punch of minerality, it just doesn’t display the full potential of that grape grown on Santorini.  It’s like Santorini Assyrtiko on training wheels.  Given its price and its character, I suspect it’s their “entry” level Assyrtiko.  It’s a good introduction to what the grape has to offer.
87 Michael Apstein Dec 24, 2019