($30): Patrick Campbell, who founded Laurel Glen Vineyard, one of Sonoma’s iconic wineries, in 1977, sold it to Bettina Sichel in 2011, who brought in David Ramey as consulting winemaker.  Their 2011 Counterpoint, their second label, is a great success.  Made for earlier drinking compared to their first label, it delivers a seamless combination of dark fruit, with glimmers of black olives and spice.  It’s bright and lively with a pleasant hint of bitterness in the finish.  Many California producers would be thrilled to call this their first wine — and likely would charge far more for it.  It manages to be supple, yet not soft, which makes it a perfect choice for current consumption with a hearty beef dish.
90 Michael Apstein Feb 4, 2014