Hugel, Alsace (France) Riesling “Jubilee” 2005

($51, Frederick Wildman):  Hugel, one of Alsace’s top producers, eschews the Alsace’s Grand Cru classification system.  They believe politics trumped terroir when vineyards were awarded Grand Cru status.  Hence, the Grand Cru designation will never appear on Hugel’s labels even though the wines come from Grand Cru sites.  Instead, Hugel’s top wines are labeled “Jubilee.”  Don’t miss this one.  Not only Grand Cru in every dimension, it shows the grandeur that Riesling achieves when aged.  This is a glorious wine, filled with minerality, earthiness and a seemingly endless finish.  Vibrant acidity keeps it fresh and lively while amplifying the flavors. 95 Michael Apstein Jun 26, 2012