($20, Cognac One):  Saint-Péray, a tiny appellation in the Rhône, produces only white or sparkling wine.  Cave de Tain is the local, highly regarded cooperative there.  Like many Rhône white wines, this one delivers fleshy yellow fruit flavors.  But unlike many white Rhônes, it also has lovely brightness and vivacity to balance the usual waxy texture.  It does double duty–rich enough to stand alone as an aperitif, it has sufficient verve to complement a meal. 89 Michael Apstein Apr 10, 2012