($45, Louis Dressner Selections): Trained as a nuclear engineer, Texier turned to winemaking. He worked in Burgundy and told me he tries to put ‘Burgundian sensibilities into Rhône wines.’ His 2005 Condrieu has the Burgundian character of incredible flavor without heaviness. Analogous to Ferran Andrià’s cooking at El Bulli, there’s flavor without mass. Fresh and floral, you taste ripe white peaches, but the wine is light as a feather. 95 Michael Apstein Oct 31, 2006