($225): 
Insignia, a gloriously suave Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot and Malbec, remains one of Napa Valley’s most acclaimed wines. And with good reason judging from the 2010. An explosive wine, its glossy texture is all the more amazing considering the wine’s concentration and power.… Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Foxen Winery, Santa Maria Valley (California) Pinot Noir Julia’s Vineyard 2010
($60): This concentrated Pinot Noir pulls it off without landing in the Pinot Syrah category because underneath all that power is refinement. Long and layered, Foxen has delivered a ripe wine, befitting its origins, without pushing it over the top. You’ll embrace it for its black-fruited succulence rather than its delicacy.… Read more
O Casal, Valdeorras (Spain) Godello “Casal Novo” 2012
($21, Classic Wines): Godello, a grape indigenous to Valdeorras, a tiny DO in northwestern Spain, has great potential because it has the capacity to make a wine that combines a creamy richness with bold acidity. The trick is to balance the two, as O Casal has done with their 2012 Casal Novo. … Read more
Mt. Difficulty, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Roaring Meg” 2011
($25, American Estate Wines): 
Central Otago is one the great areas in New Zealand for Pinot Noir, and Mt. Difficulty is one the best producers there. This solid Pinot Noir, the winery’s second label, combines bright clean red fruit-like flavors with a whiff of earth and leafiness. … Read more
Lange Estate Winery, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Reserve 2011
($35): Judging by their Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris, Lange Estate is a name to remember. This one shows the paradox of Pinot Noir — powerful yet delicate. Its power is in its persistence and layered flavors of fruit and earthiness. … Read more
Maison Albert Bichot, Bourgogne Rouge (France) Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes 2011
($18, Horizon Beverage Company): Both Burgundy fans will and newcomers to this mine field-laden region will be thrilled with this bargain priced wine. Burgundy aficionados will embrace it because it’s an authentic red Burgundy at great price, delivering earthiness to complement its fruitiness. … Read more
Lange Estate Winery, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2011
($20): 
I was not familiar with the wines from Lange Estate Winery until a recent tasting in Boston. That was a mistake I’m glad I’ve now corrected. This perky Pinot Gris has vivacity that harmonizes perfectly with its subtly spiced pear-like flavors.… Read more
Cakebread Cellars, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Pinot Noir 2011
($50): Cakebread, known for their Napa Valley wines, has expanded to the cooler, more Pinot Noir friendly, Anderson Valley for their foray with the varietal. While clearly a fruit-focused wine, bright acidity prevents it from being jammy or overdone. Supple tannins enrobe the sweet dense mixture of lively red fruit flavors. … Read more
Franklin Tate Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot 2012
($15, RG Wine Trade/Indigo Wine Group): This fruit-forward Cabernet Sauvignon blend focuses on plumy flavors sprinkled with a subtle herbal quality. Supple tannins allow immediate enjoyment. It’s a balanced wine with enough stuffing to stand up to steak.
85 Michael Apstein Sep 10, 2013
Franklin Tate Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Shiraz 2012
($15, RG Wine Trade/Indigo Wine Group): This Shiraz could be viewed as a second wine to Franklin Tate Estate’s impressive Alexanders Vineyard Shiraz. More plumy than gamey, it delivers clean bright fruit without being overdone. Ready to drink now, it would be a good choice for burgers on the grill.… Read more
Franklin Tate Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Alexanders Vineyard 2012
($20, RG Wine Trade/Indigo Wine Group): The Franklin Tate Estate wines labeled Alexanders Vineyard are stunningly good. I enthusiastically recommended their 2012 Syrah and am even more impressed by this Cabernet Sauvignon. The immediately explosive nose prepares you for what follows.… Read more
d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Riesling “The Dry Dam” 2010
($17, Old Bridge Cellars): With so much less expensive Riesling on the market, consumers might pass over this one. That would be a mistake. This bracing wine has a racy mouth cleansing zing and lots of minerality. Hints of spice and citrus emerge in its seemingly endless finish.… Read more
Montes Alpha, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Chardonnay 2011
($20, TGIC Importers): A bright lemony finish adds balance and a welcome restraint in this fruit-focused Chardonnay. Hints of spice balance the lively pineapple-like nuances in this easy-to-recommend wine. Its mid-weight character will not overwhelm so it’s as easy to sip before dinner as it is at the table.… Read more
Franklin Tate Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Shiraz 2012
($20, RG Wine Trade/Indigo Wine Group): Typical of many of the wines from Western Australia, this one shows power without being overblown. What’s especially intriguing is how the wine captures both major aspects of what Shiraz has to offer–a plumy fruitiness and a peppery gaminess. … Read more
Robert Oatley, McClaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz 2010
($20, Robert Oatley Vineyards): When tasting the line of wines under the Robert Oatley label, it’s easy to understand how he turned Rosemount, the company he founded, into one of Australia’s most successful wineries. This Shiraz combines the best of that grape’s dual personalities. … Read more
Paumanok, North Fork of Long Island (New York) Chenin Blanc 2012
($28): 
As with many wines from Long Island, the retail availability of this one is limited since three-quarters of Long Island’s wineries’ production is sold at the wineries. Nonetheless, this crisp and refreshing Chenin Blanc is widely available in restaurants and retail shops the New York City area and as far afield as Chicago. … Read more
Hecht & Bannier, Bandol (Provence, France) 2009
($34, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): Juicy and succulent, this weighty Bandol is surprisingly user-friendly now with just enough tannic-acid structure to frame the black fruit-like flavors without being aggressive or intrusive. Hints of earth complement its dark fruitiness. It carries its intensity and concentration with grace. … Read more
Laurent-Perrier, Champagne (France) Brut 2004
($70, Laurent-Perrier USA): Relying on a substantial amount of Chardonnay in their blends, Laurent-Perrier consistently makes elegant and suave Champagne. The 2004, a 50/50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, continues that tradition. Creamy and delicate, it caresses the palate. There’s just the right amount of acidity in its very fine bubbles to keep it fresh and lively.… Read more
Robert Oatley, Great Southern (Australia) Riesling 2012
($17, Robert Oatley Vineyards, Inc): 
Though a relatively new label, Robert Oatley has been an important part of the Australian wine industry for decades. He founded Rosemount, one of Australia’s most successful and reliable producers, before he sold that winery. Judging from this and other wines in his line, consistency remains his hallmark.… Read more
Alamos, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec 2012
($13, Alamos USA): 
This Malbec combines juicy succulent black fruit-like flavors with soft tannins that lend just the right amount of structure. Big, but not overpowering, this fleshy wine is a great value. What it lacks in complexity it makes up for with its price. … Read more
d’Arenberg, Adelaide Hills (South Australia) Pinot Noir “The Feral Fox” 2011
($32, Old Bridge Cellars): 
d’Arenberg is known for their muscular and intensely flavored wines. This Pinot Noir — aptly dubbed The Feral Fox because of its gamey element — fits that profile. Thicker and more ponderous than a red Burgundy or Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast, it is refreshingly distinctive and reflects its origins. … Read more
Louis M. Martini, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
($30): With supple tannins, Martini’s Alexander Valley Cabernet is velvety in texture. There’s far more going on in the glass compared to the Sonoma County bottling, which arguably could reflect a vintage difference. Engaging minty nuances complement its ripe dark fruit flavors. … Read more
Montes, Colchagua Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “Alpha” 2010
($18, T.G.I.C. Importers): Aurelio Montes was one of the pioneers of the premium wine industry in Chile when he and his partners founded the Montes winery in the late 1980s. His dogged determination has helped draw the world’s attention to Chile as a source of upscale wines. … Read more
Montes, Colchagua Valley (Chile) Apalta “Alpha M” 2010
($80, T.G.I.C. Importers): 
With their “M” bottling, which they don’t produce every year, Montes has consistently demonstrated the heights that Chilean red Bordeaux blends can achieve. Indeed, the M could stand for “marvelous” or “magnificent.” It explodes on the palate delivering dense ripe and savory components that play off beautifully against one another. … Read more
Cono Sur, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Pinot Noir “Reserva Especial” 2012
($15, Vineyard Brands): Despite coming from the Casablanca Valley, a cool coastal area of Chile where you’d expect more delicacy in Pinot Noir, this one is a riper, more intensely styled wine with hints of bacon fat. Tannins are similarly ripe and supple, which means it’s a good choice for current drinking. … Read more
Penley Estate, Coonawarra (South Australia) Chardonnay “Aradia” 2010
($20, Old Bridge Cellars): Those who still believe that all Australian Chardonnays are over ripe fruit bombs will be stunned by this dazzling wine. Bright apple-like nuances tingle the palate in this restrained style of Chardonnay. You’re left with a zesty citrus tang in the finish. … Read more
Erath, Oregon (United States) Pinot Noir 2011
($19): It’s hard to find drinkable Pinot Noir under $20 a bottle, which is why it was such a pleasant surprise to run across Erath’s. Drawn from grapes grown all over Oregon, this mid-weight wine emphasizes delicate red fruit nuances. Hints of spice add complexity and prevent it from seeming like a boring, one-trick-pony of a wine. … Read more
Mirassou, California (United States) Pinot Noir 2011
($12): This lightweight, fruity Pinot Noir conveys plenty of sweet cherry-like flavors without aggressive tannins. Its supple structure allows you to enjoy it chilled.
84 Michael Apstein Aug 6, 2013… Read more
Kilikanoon, Watervale (Clare Valley, Australia) Riesling “Mort’s Block” 2012
($18, Old Bridge Cellars): Australian Rieslings, such as this one, continue to captivate. The delight this wine delivers should come as no surprise. The Watervale area of the Clare Valley is especially well known for top-notch Riesling, and Kilikanoon is an excellent producer. … Read more
Cono Sur, San Antonio Valley (Chile) Chardonnay 2012
($12, Vineyard Brands): 
Chile’s geography–a long narrow strip of country protected by the Pacific Ocean on one side and the Andes on the other–explains why it’s a leader in organic agriculture, including grapes and wine. Cono Sur trumpets that this wine was made from organically grown grapes in four places, twice on the capsule and twice more on the label, just in case you might not get it. … Read more
Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Riesling “Art Series” 2012
($22, Old Bridge Cellars): Leeuwin Estate, one of Western Australia’s best producers, is known for 
their stunning Artist Series Chardonnays. Well, they now are also known for their Art Series Rieslings, judging by this stellar wine. Dry and stony, the citrus tinged finish lingers seemingly forever. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Bourgogne Gamay (France) 2011
($16, Louis Latour USA): Bourgogne Gamey is a newly created appellation for Burgundy with the 2011 vintage that allows producers to blend Gamay grown in the crus, or named villages, of Beaujolais with Pinot Noir. It differs and is a step above the longstanding and locally popular appellation Bourgogne Passetoutgrains because the Gamay for Passetoutgrains can come from anywhere within Beaujolais.… Read more
Craggy Range, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Chardonnay Kidnappers Vineyard 2011
($20, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Craggy Range’s Kidnappers Vineyard shows the appeal of unoaked Chardonnay. Lean and lithe, its crispness and verve reflects the proximity of the vineyard to the cooling influences of the sea. While many unoaked Chardonnay’s are hollow, this one is not. … Read more
Craggy Range, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Gimblett Gravels Vineyard “Te Kahu” 2011
($20, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): This bargain Bordeaux blend is the 2nd wine of Craggy Range’s Sophia, their red Bordeaux flag ship. Winemaker Steve Smith says they’ve identified areas of their Gimblett Gravels vineyard that produce grapes that lack the character they are seeking for Sophia. … Read more
Hecht & Bannier, Côtes de Provence Rosé (Provence, France) 2012
($18, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): The foil disc on top hides the closure so it’s not quite clear whether you need a corkscrew. You don’t. Once you remove the plastic neck label, which takes the foil disc with it, an easy-to-remove glass stopper twists off. … Read more
The Four Graces, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2012
($20): The Black family purchased an existing vineyard in the Dundee Hills in 2003, immediately started to transform it and named the winery after their four daughters. This graceful (no pun intended) Pinot Gris shows the beauty of that varietal and is a classic example of it. … Read more
Cono Sur, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Sauvignon Blanc “Reserva Especial” 2012
($12): Chile’s Casablanca Valley’s proximity to the Pacific Ocean with its cooling influences has made it a popular source for lively white wines that focus on freshness. And this Sauvignon Blanc does just that. A grapefruit-like zing and mouth cleansing acidity makes it a good choice for this summer to accompany lighter seafood dishes. … Read more
Cougar Crest Estate Winery, Walla Walla (Washington) Syrah 2008
($34): Founded only in 2001, Cougar Crest Estate Winery is a name worth remembering, at least judging from this stylish Syrah. Syrah has gotten bad press recently with many critics lamenting its failure to deliver distinctiveness. Not so with this one. … Read more
Herdade do Esporão, Alentejo (Portugal) “Esporão” Reserva 2009
($90, Aidil Wines & Liquors): This is the kind of red wine people love. It’s robust, yet not tannic or hard. A blend Portuguese grapes, Aragones, Trincadiera, Alicante Bouschet with a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon thrown in, it delivers spice and herbal notes that complement the deep black fruit flavors. … Read more
Taylor Fladgate, Porto (Portugal) 2011
($80, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Nature was kind to the Douro Valley in 2011 delivering perfect weather throughout the growing season. For most producers, it was an easy decision to “declare” a vintage. Taylor Fladgate’s 2011 is sensational. Tightly wound and mineraly, it’s surprisingly approachable and engaging already. … Read more
Fonseca, Porto (Portugal) 2011
($80, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
At a Kobrand-sponsored tasting of 2011 vintage Ports, tasters would be asking one another which they preferred, Taylor’s or Fonseca’s. What’s amazing to me is how different and distinctive these two Ports are, despite being owned by the same family run company (The Fladgate Partnership, where David Guimaraens is wine director for both houses).… Read more
Pazo Barrantes, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2011
($20, Maisons Marques & Domaines): 
It should come as no surprise that Pazo Barrantes is a reliable label for an Albariño because that estate was founded and is still owned by the Creixell family, which also owns the exalted Rioja estate, Marqués de Murrieta. … Read more
Craggy Range, Martinborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir Te Muna Road Vineyard 2011
($46, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Craggy Range recently held ten-year vertical tasting, from their first vintage in 2002 to the 2011, of their Te Muna Road Vineyard Pinot Noir. The tasting demonstrated that Craggy Range is–without doubt–one of New Zealand’s top producers of that variety. … Read more
Hugel, Alsace Vendange Tardive (France) Gewürztraminer 2007
($40, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): Hugel is the giant among producers of Vendange Tardive (literally, late harvest) wine. The best ones, such as this 2007 (sold in a 375 ml bottle), impress with their concentration, elegance and acidity rather than their sweetness.… Read more
Hugel, Alsace (France) Gewürztraminer 2012
($29, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): 
Hugel is one of Alsace’s best and most consistent producers. Their wines always accurately reflect the varietal and the origin of the grapes. This one, a blend from a variety of vineyards, is a classic example of Alsace Gewürztraminer. … Read more
Hugel, Alsace (France) Riesling 2012
($24, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): Jean-Frédéric Hugel, this house’s brand manager for the United States, summed up this Riesling, “It may not be perfect, but it is how we want it.” I would disagree slightly–it is perfect for the price. … Read more
Hugel, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc “Cuvée des Amours” 2010
($18, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): Jean-Frédéric Hugel, Etienne’s enthusiastic son, loves the 2010 vintage because it gave them great ripeness without losing acidity. This Pinot Blanc, one of Hugel’s best ever, reflects that assessment. It has unusual depth for Pinot Blanc, and invigorating acidity keeps in fresh and lively. … Read more
Bodega DiamAndes, Valle de Uco (Mendoza, Argentina) “Perlita” 2011
($13, Henry Wine Group): This “entry level” wine from DiamAndes, a Malbec (80%) Syrah blend is a good choice for this summer’s BBQs. The additional of Syrah to the blend and the talents of the winemaking team means this is not another “fruit bomb” Malbec.… Read more
Bodega DiamAndes, Valle de Uco (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec 2010
($20, Henry Wine Group): 
The Bonnie family who owns the Cru Classé Graves property, Château Malartic-Lagravière, have shown, with their project in Argentina, that their talents are not limited to Bordeaux. Their Argentine wines are a unique and stunning combination of New World fruitiness and Old World structure.… Read more
Château des Labourons, Fleurie (Burgundy, France) 2011
($18, Louis Latour USA): Fleurie, one of the ten named villages or crus of Beaujolais, is allowed to put its name on the label, with or without reference to Beaujolais. The Château des Labourons has opted to omit Beaujolais from the label because, as Bernard Retornaz, the President of Louis Latour Inc in charge of North American Market, said, “This is real wine, not some grapey swill that’s become associated with Beaujolais.” … Read more