Claudie Jobard, Rully (Côte Chalonnaise, Burgundy, France) Montagne La Folie 2018

($27, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): No doubt about it, this is a great wine.  People, my editor included, will be startled by my awarding 95 points to a village Rully, which just exemplifies the problem of numerical rating.  On an absolute scale, is this a 95 Point wine, comparable to a Grand Cru from the Côte d’Or?  Of course not.  But it is likely the best, or certainly among the best, village Rully I’ve ever tasted.  My friend and colleague, Robert Whitley, has the best definition of the point scale — it’s an applause meter, a way to describe how much you like a wine.  Well, using that definition, Jobard’s 2018 Rully “Montagne La Folie” is definitely a 95-point wine.  It has the quintessential stoney character of Rully with a touch extra ripeness (that’s the vintage speaking) and exceptional acidity, which gives it a sturdy backbone and a riveting and laser-like focus.  It’s wonderfully balanced, with a tension between a subtle creamy minerality and invigorating finish.  Lovely to drink now, it was even more expressive the next night after sitting open in the fridge, which bodes well for development and even more complexity as it ages over the next few years.  But, my bet is that it will not last that long in your cellar.  Oh, and by the way, did you note the price?  With current pricing and tariffs taken into account, this is an exceptional bargain.
95 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2020