Grattamacco, Bolgheri DOC (Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino 2017

($52, Winebow):  I know, 50 bucks for a Vermentino?  But this is no regular Vermentino.  It’s a captivating, stop-you-in-your-tracks kind of wine.  Grattamacco, founded in 1977, was the second winery, after Sassicaia, in what’s now the Bolgheri DOC.  They planted Vermentino in addition to Cabernet, Merlot and Sangiovese and now claim to have the oldest Vermentino vines in Bolgheri, which probably accounts, at least in part, for the wine’s splendor.  It delivers an extraordinary combination of mineral-like salinity, the signature of Vermentino, and an alluring hint of creaminess.  A touch of spice and the verve in the finish amplifies its charms.  Long and vigorous, this is refined wine.  And is it fun to drink because nuances emerge with each sip.
96 Michael Apstein Nov 5, 2019