Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Eroica” 2012

($20): Eroica, a collaboration of Ernst Loosen of Germany’s Dr. Loosen and Bob Bertheau of Chateau Ste. Michelle, has been one of the finest Rieslings made in America since its 1999 debut.  It’s a blend of grapes grown throughout eastern Washington, composed by Loosen and Bertheau (after all, the wine is named for Beethoven’s Third Symphony).  The 2010 and 2011 vintages were unusually cool and produced Eroicas with scintillating acidity and firm structure.  The 2012, from a warm growing season, is a bit softer and fruitier, brimming with ripe peach, apricot and citrus character, yet still with mouthwatering acidity that balances the 1.66 g/100ml residual sugar.  My own taste is for a leaner, racier Riesling, such as the 2011 Eroica, yet the 2012 is more generous, luscious and accessible.
92 Linda Murphy Oct 22, 2013