d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz “The Stump Jump” 2011

($13, Old Bridge Cellars): Despite my lack of enthusiasm for the cutesy names the Australians attach to their wines, there is no overlooking the quality and value of this wine.  It is a superb $13 Shiraz.  Surprisingly for the price, it delivers more than just fruit flavors — there are subtle and intriguing gamey and savory notes.  Not entirely polished, it has a charming rusticity compared to d’Arenberg’s other very fine Shiraz.  Stock up on this for the cool weather ahead.  It’s just what you need as the temperature drops and the hearty stews simmer on the stove.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 8, 2013