Craggy Range, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Chardonnay Kidnappers Vineyard 2011

($20, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Craggy Range’s Kidnappers Vineyard shows the appeal of unoaked Chardonnay.  Lean and lithe, its crispness and verve reflects the proximity of the vineyard to the cooling influences of the sea.  While many unoaked Chardonnay’s are hollow, this one is not.  Winemaker Steve Smith has managed to extract a subtle, yet persistent, green apple-like fruitiness that is apparent from start to finish.  Try it with grilled fish dribbled with olive oil.
93 Michael Apstein Jun 11, 2013