($17, Moët Hennessey USA):  I’m always surprised that the SBS (as they’re known in Australia) wines aren’t as popular here as they are down under.  Cape Mentelle, one of Western Australia’s leading producers, made a particularly alluring one in 2011.  Its creamy luxurious side–Semillon speaking–is offset and balanced by a pleasant tang from the Sauvignon Blanc.  This perky wine is versatile, working equally well as an aperitif, with grilled fish or a bucket of steamers. 89 Michael Apstein Feb 14, 2012