($10, Vineyard Brands): Although it’s Charles Back’s pun-laden labels that catch your attention, the wine in the bottle is what holds it.  Hints—just hints—of apricot and peach-like flavors buttressed by good acidity makes this southern Rhone lookalike easy to recommend.  Clean and fresh, without a trace of heaviness, it has surprising length, especially at the price. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 18, 2009