Alphonse Mellot, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) 2008

($44, Boutique Wine Collection): Pouilly sur Loire, home to Pouilly-Fumé, sits just across the Loire River from Sancerre and, like that town, allows producers to use only Sauvignon Blanc for its wines.  Despite the similar location and grape, Mellot’s Pouilly-Fumé’s stony, lean, laser-like edginess is very different from the chalky earthy notes found in his Sancerre (reviewed previously).  It’s an invigorating, tightly wound and even flinty wine that at this stage is reminiscent of Chablis. 91 Michael Apstein Jul 7, 2009