($14, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): I particularly love the Rieslings from Western Australia because they are unique. Neither flowery in the Germanic tradition nor powerful in the Alsace style, they have a lacey feel about them with a clean citric edge. Protracted sunshine (the Frankland area receives over 300 days of sunshine annually) combined with the cooling influences from the ocean explains how the grapes ripen slowly, but fully, and retain their acidity. Rocky Gully’s Dry Riesling fits that mold nicely. Its refreshing limey character makes it equally attractive as an aperitif or with roast pork. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 17, 2006