De Chanceny, Crémant de la Loire (Loire Valley, France) Brut Nature 2015

($20):  Crémant de la Loire is a category of sparkling wines that consumers should embrace.  Many of these traditionally made (secondary fermentation in the bottle as with Champagne) bubblies provide great enjoyment at an affordable price. Take De Chanceny’s Brut Nature, for example.  The traditional grapes used for Crémant de la Loire, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and a little Cabernet Franc, comprise the blend of this beauty.  The “Nature” designation means that very little or no sugar in the dosage, which means that the wines chosen for Champagne, or this kind of sparkling wine, must be the highest quality.  That explains why De Chanceny uses only hand-harvested grapes for this cuvée.  Their 2015 Brut Nature displays creaminess intermingled with subtle toasty notes, all supported by a balancing spine of acidity that keeps it fresh. Its silky texture means you just want to keep drinking it, which is find because it’s a good pairing for anything from fish in a beurre blanc sauce to sushi.
91 Michael Apstein May 3, 2022