Far Mountain, Sonoma Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Fission” 2018

($69):  Far Mountain is a new project by two Chileans who have a vast experience in the wine business, the husband and wife team of Mai Errazuriz and Rodrigo Soto.  Mai, from the family that founded Viña Errazuriz, a leading Chilean producer, also has experience in California as marketing director for Quintessa.  Soto is Quintessa’s estate director.  Three-quarters of the grapes for this wine come from Alta Vista vineyard, a high elevation site in the Moon Valley AVA of the Mayacamas Mountains.  The vines there are roughly fifty-years old and have never been irrigated.  The remaining grapes come from the organically-farmed Murray Ranch Vineyard, another mountain site in the Sonoma Mountain AVA.  The background of the principals and the source of the grapes predicts a top-notch wine.  In this case, what’s in the glass confirms the expectations.  Tightly wound initially, this nicely chiseled wine reveals itself as it sits in the glass.  This is not a wine to rush.  It develops intriguing complexity with air.  Dark fruit and mineral-like flavors emerge.  Unlike many wines made from mountain fruit, this one has a fine texture.  Despite a stated 14.5 percent alcohol, Fission is not overdone or in-your-face.  It’s quite refined and finesse filled.  If you are serving it now, decanter it a couple of hours in advance for full enjoyment.
94 Michael Apstein Dec 7, 2021